Sippa Crochet Scarf

    

I wanted a scarf for cold spring days and this checkered crochet scarf that I came up with is already my new favorite. 

Pattern in Swedish >>

This scarf is crocheted in alpacka yarn and is built up by squares and some half squares.

I have made each square in one color but it would of course be possible to alternate the color scheme on the squares and the scarf in endless ways.
Finished size of the scarf is 130 x 65 cm but you can easily adjust the size of it by adding or removing rows.

MATERIAL

Yarn: Alpacka Solo  (100% Alpaca, 5 ply, sport weight),  colors 29125 green, 29113 dark green, 29121 blue, 29115 dark blue, 29119 purple, 29118 pink and 29101 natural. 1 skein of each. You will get yarn over in some of the colors.

Hook: 3,0 mm.
Scissors and a needle.

ABBREVIATIONS, US CROCHET TERMS

st - stitch

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet
blo - back loop only
sp - space

DESCRIPTION

Squares and half squares:

The scarf is built up by 105 squares and 15 half squares. To get the same color scheme as me you will need the following amount of each color.

Squares: 9 green, 11 dark green, 13 dark blue, 15 blue, 17 purple, 19 pink, 21 natural
Half squares: 15 green

The pattern with description and diagram for the square and the half square is found in my other blog post: Sippa Granny Square pattern >>

Joining:

After you made all your squares it's time for the joining. This will go pretty quick since it is done row by row in a zig-zag pattern. Joining is done by making sc's in the blo on the wrong side of the squares. This will give an almost invisible join and flat look from the right side.

The scarf has 15 rows, where row 1 has 1 square and row 14 has 14 squares. Row 15 is the longest and is built up by the 15 half squares. Start joining at the peak of the scarf (row 1 and 2) and work your way from right to left, row by row, to the upper edge. The joining should be done with the same color as on the row of squares below the joining to get an invisible join. I have used a contrasting color for the joining in the images just to make it easier to see what it looks like.

Colors by row 1-15: green, dark green, dark blue, blue, purple, pink, natural, green, dark green, dark blue, blue, purple, pink, natural, green.

Here we go!

Place the two squares to be joined with the right side against each other (image 1).
Start by making 1 sc in the corner chains of both squares (image 2).
Make 1 sc through each of the 13 dc's along the side of the squares (BLO!) (image 3).
Finish the joining by making 1 sc in the other corner chains of the two squares (image 4).

Image 1-4

Now your two first squares are joined. Images below shows how the result looks on the wrong side (image 5) and right side (image 6).

Now put the next square in place (image 7) and continue to join in the same way as before (image 8).

Image 5-8

When you have worked your way through a couple of rows your work will look as in the image below (image 9).

Image 9

After joining all the rows of squares it is time to join the half squares.

The joining is done in the same way as with the squares (image 10-13).

Image 10-13

Now you probably notice that the upper edge is not looking very good compared to the other two edges. Let's do something about that.

Upper edge:

The upper edge is made out of one row of dc's and one row of hdc's. Make it in the same color as the half squares (Once again I have used a contrasting color in the images to make it easier to see the stitches).

Row 1:

Start in the ch sp at the peak of the rightmost joined half square (image 14).

Make 1 sc in first ch sp, (3 dc in next ch sp, 2 dc around next dc, 4 dc in the next 4 sc (sc's in the magic ring of the half square),  2 dc around next dc , 3 dc in next ch-3 sp , 2 dc in next ch sp , ch 2 and continue to next square, 2 dc in next ch sp) repeat as many times as half squares but omit the last 2 dc's on the last half square, end the row with a sc in the last ch sp.

Image 14-17

There should now be 18 dc's on each half square except for the outer ones which should have 16 dc's and 1 sc.

Row 2:

Start again in the ch sp at the peak of the rightmost joined half square.
Make 2 sc in first ch sp to the right of the sc from last round. 1 hdc in the sc from last round continue by making 1 hdc in each dc and 2 hdc in each ch-2 sp from last round, finish the round by making 1 hdc in last sc and make 2 sc in last ch sp.

Fasten off and weave in all ends!

If you want a perfect triangle shaped scarf you will need to block the scarf, otherwise it's ready to use!

I hope you will like your new scarf, I love mine!

If you've got questions, or find any errors in this pattern, please tell me!
It would be very nice to see your scarfs, so please tag images with #intheyarngarden or #sippacrochetscarf or feel free to leave a comment with a link to your pictures.  :)

Happy crocheting!

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