Pacific Best

Crocheted square jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Big Delight.

DROPS 186-36
DROPS Design: Pattern no db-091
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-700-750-800 g color 04, marina

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM / H/8 – or the size needed to get (1 double crochet + 3 chain stitches) 4 times in width and 6 rounds on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFO (applies to A.4)
The first double crochet at the beginning of the row is replaced by 3 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeve):
Decrease 1 repeat (= 1 double crochet + 3 chain stitches) by working 2 double crochets into 1 double crochet as follows: Work 1 double crochet around the first chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet around the next chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook, 3 chain stitches.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked in the round from mid back and outwards in a square. Work in the round in a spiral, from and including round 2 and to finished length of the square. Then work back and forth on the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round from the body.

BODY:
The piece is worked in the round into a square, starting from the middle of the square.
Start with hook size 5 mm / H/8 and Big Delight and work pattern according to diagram A.1 - NOTE: As shown in the diagram, only round 1 is worked together at the end of the round, the other rounds are worked in a spiral. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When the diagram is finished, there are 9 chain-spaces along each of the first 3 sides and 11 chain-spaces along the fourth side (= bottom edge of jacket).
Continue by repeating the 3 last rounds, i.e. increase 1 double crochet + 1 chain-space from corner to corner (= a total of 4 increases on the round) for each round of chain-spaces. Continue with the pattern like this until the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' - adjust so that you finish after the last of the 3 rounds.
Now work the armholes as follows: Work as before as far as the middle of the first side, then work chain stitches to the first corner as follows: work 1 chain stitch for each chain stitch/ double crochet you skip, work 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet around the corner, continue pattern as before along the next side and work 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet around the corner, work chain stitches to the middle of the next side as follows: work 1 chain stitch for each chain stitch/double crochet you skip, continue pattern on the last half of this side and to end of round.
Then work 2 rounds the same as the first of these 3 rounds in this repeat (i.e. rounds of chain-spaces) - work also around the chain stitches for the armhole. Then work 1 round the same as the second of these 3 rounds in this repeat (i.e. a round of double crochet groups).
Then work in the round (with increases as before) according to diagram A.2 a total of 1 time in height, then work in the round (with increases as before) according to diagram A.3. Repeat A.3 in height to finished length.
Continue in this way until the square measures approx. 84-86-88-90-92-94 cm / x 84-86-88-90-92-94 cm / 33"-34"-34½"-35½"-36 1/4"-37'' x 33"-34"-34½"-35½"-36 1/4"-37'' - adjust so that you finish after a round of chain-spaces (i.e. approx. 24 cm / 9½'' in all sizes from the armhole). Cut and fasten the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
The front pieces are worked separately, back and forth without increases. Insert 1 marker on the last round worked - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Start at the cross in the one corner - see sketch, and work as follows: Read CROCHET INFO. Work A.4a around the corner, repeat A.4b until there is 1 chain-space left before the next corner, work A.4c. Repeat A.4 in height until the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' - adjust so that you finish after a row of chain-spaces. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other front piece in the same way.

EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the whole jacket as follows: Work 1 double crochet + 4 chain stitches + 1 double crochet around the corner, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the chain-space *, work from *-* along the whole piece - but in the corners work 1 double crochet + 4 chain stitches + 1 double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round, top down from the armhole, starting mid under sleeve, from the right side. The first round is worked evenly around the armhole as follows: Work A.5b a total of 17-18-19-20-21-22 times - A.5a shows how the rounds start and finish. A.5 is worked a total of 2 times in height, then work A.6 to finished length - AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 1 repeat at the start of the 5th round by working 2 double crochets together mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 5th-5th-4th-3rd-3rd-3rd round (adjust so that you do not decrease on a round of double crochet groups) a total of 4-4-5-6-6-7 times = 13-14-14-14-15-15 double crochets/chain-spaces on the round. Continue the rounds without decreasing until the sleeve measures 44 cm / 17 1/4'' in all sizes - adjust so that you finish after a round of chain-spaces. Then work a finishing round as follows: * 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space, 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain-space/chain-stitch ring
symbols = 2 double crochets around chain-space, (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first of the 3 chain stitches) and 2 double crochets around the same chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = The round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = The round begins with 3 chain stitches (the round does NOT finish - you continue working in a spiral from the end of the round and on through the diagram)
symbols = 6 chain stitches, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch - see point on circle, the round starts and ends here
symbols = shows previous round, Start on next round!
symbols = when working front piece, start here
symbols = double crochet around chain-space, but when A.4 is repeated in height work the double crochet in the stitch.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 186-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Elena wrote:

Buongiorno, volevo sapere quante catenelle ci vogliono per fare l'anello in questo cardigan? Esiste un video che spiega passo per passo come fare il cardigan? Grazie

09.03.2022 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, deve partire con 6 catenelle come indicato nel diagramma. Non abbiamo un tutorial per l'intero cardigan ma ci sono diversi video per le tecniche utilizzate. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2022 - 23:12

country flag Rochelle wrote:

I'm confused by the A4 section. I looked for a tutorial; none. I'm not even sure how to explain how I'm trying to read the diagram at this point. Is there anyone that can explain? Preferably with pictures(I'm a visual learner) Trying to finish to give to my daughter. Thank you so much for any help, Rochelle

28.09.2019 - 02:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rochelle, you work A.4 over the front pieces only (= the parts with a x in chart). The row with a star is the last row on square and you will work from one corner to the next corner starting from RS with A.4A, then repeat A.4B and finish with A.4C to the end of the row (to next corner). read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

30.09.2019 - 08:27

country flag An wrote:

Ik heb toch even een vraag over het ruggedeelte. Als ik de vest aantrek dan blijft het onderste deel van de rug golven, is niet mooi vierkantig, onderste deel van vierkant is breder en dus golvend !!!?????

04.03.2018 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Ann, Dit is helaas een beetje inherent aan het patroon. De bovenkant blijft goed zitten, omdat die om je schouders zit en aan de onderkant gaat het altijd wat golven door dat de voorpanden los hangen en in verhouding langer zijn.

05.03.2018 - 19:45

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Ich hab eine Frage zu den Zunahmen beim Rückenteil. Es heißt zum Schluss „gemäß Diagramm A.3 häkeln mit Zunahmen wie zuvor“. Ich habe das so verstanden dass in jeder Luftmaschenrunde die einer Luftmaschenreihe folgt eine Zunahme gemacht wird. Allerdings ist meine Arbeit jetzt nicht mehr gleichmäßig viereckig sondern eher an den Ecken Zipfelförmig nach links. Ist das mit den Zunahmen jetzt so richtig oder eher nur eine Zunahme pro Diagramm? LG Yvonne

24.02.2018 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, beim A.3 weiterhäkeln werden Sie wie zuvor zunehmen, Sie sollen immer die gleichen LmBogen/Stb in jeder der 3 Seiten und beim letzten Seiten 2 mehr haben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

26.02.2018 - 08:02

country flag Sarah wrote:

What does this mean in the pattern? I have completed the first diagram part and I am having a hard time understanding where I need to increase. From pattern: Continue by repeating the 3 last rounds, i.e. increase 1 double crochet + 1 chain-space from corner to corner (= a total of 4 increases on the round) for each round of chain-spaces.

09.02.2018 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sara, the last three rows of the diagram shows you how to increase in the corners to teh piece will be a growing square. (in each roner you increase 1 dc + 1 ch-sp - in the whole round all together four times). Continue to repeat these last rows until you reach the necessary size.

11.02.2018 - 09:36

Custom Jewelry Colorado wrote:

Definitely, what a magnificent site and educative posts, I definitely will bookmark your blog.Best Regards!

25.01.2018 - 08:33

country flag Ebon wrote:

I love this one as well. It's a great way to use yarn left overs and very casual

16.01.2018 - 14:26