DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Holiday Feeling

Crocheted tunic with multi-colored yoke and fans, worked top down. Sizes S- XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Safran.

DROPS 187-40
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-279
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450-500-550-600-650 g color 13, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 20, rust
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 12, peach
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 50, light ice blue

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM / G/6 – or the size needed to get 20 double crochets and 11.5 rows or 20 treble crochets and 7.6 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON, Round (red) NO 605: 1 item for all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches.

COLOR CHANGE:
When changing color at the beginning of a round, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous round with the new color.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

STRIPES:
ROUND 1: peach
ROUND 2: light ice blue
ROUND 3: denim blue
ROUND 4: rust
ROUND 5: light ice blue
ROUND 6: peach
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TUNIC:
You start by working the yoke back and forth from the back, over each shoulder and down to the front. Then you work a multi-colored edge around the whole yoke.
After the multi-colored edge, you work around the bottom edge of the yoke, both front and back, then work loose chain stitches for the armholes and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked at the end and sewn into the armholes.

YOKE:
Work 63-65-68-70-75-75 chain stitches with raspberry and hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROW 1 (right side): Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4-6-3-5-4-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times = 51-53-55-57-61-61 treble crochets (including the first 4 chain stitches on the row).
ROW 2 (wrong side): Start on the row with a star in the diagrams and work A.1c (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left, A.1a (= 2 stitches).
ROW 3: Work A.1a, A.1b until there is 1 stitch left, A.1c.
Repeat the last 2 rows of A.1a-A.1c until you have worked 9-9-11-11-11-13 rows (including row 1 where you skipped approx. every 5th chain stitch). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now divide the piece and work the left shoulder first – the first row is from the wrong side: Continue the pattern as before over the first 11-11-11-11-13-13 stitches, work 1 double crochet in the next stitch (= 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches on shoulder).
Repeat rows 2 and 3 in A.1a-A.1c + 1 extra double crochet/treble crochet towards the neck until you have worked 15-17-17-17-19-19 rows on the shoulder (= a total of 24-26-28-28-30-32 rows from the beginning of the yoke) – the last row is from the wrong side.
Work 18-19-20-21-21-21 chain stitches at the end of the last row (= stitches for neck on the front piece). Turn and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-2-3-4-4-4 chain stitches * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times (= 13-14-15-16-16-16 treble crochets), continue to end of row as before = 25-26-27-28-30-30 stitches on the front piece. Continue the pattern back and forth until you have worked 6-6-8-8-8-10 rows on the front piece – the last row is from the wrong side, work 1 chain stitch mid front (= split). Cut the strand, but leave approx. 20 cm / 8'' of strand end (will be used for assembly later).
Work the right shoulder:
Start from the wrong side, by the left shoulder and skip 27-29-31-33-33-33 treble crochets for the neck at the back = 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches on right shoulder. Continue the pattern from the row with a star in diagrams A.1a-A.1c, back and forth in the same way as on the left shoulder, but reversed; in other words you work 2 double crochets towards the neck as on the left shoulder – read CROCHET INFORMATION!
Repeat rows 2 and 3 in A.1a-A.1c + 1 extra double crochet/treble crochet towards the neck until you have worked 14-16-16-16-18-18 rows (= a total of 23-25-27-27-29-31 rows from the beginning of the yoke) - the last row is from the right side. Cut the strand.
Work 15-16-17-18-18-18 chain stitches and continue the pattern over the right shoulder from the wrong side. Turn and work the next row from the right side as far as the row of chain stitches, then work as follows: * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 3-4-5-6-6-6 chain stitches = 25-26-27-28-30-30 stitches on the right front piece. Continue the pattern until you have worked 6-6-8-8-8-10 rows on the right front piece. Sew the strand end from the split on the left front piece to the outermost double crochet (i.e. the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the last row worked on the right front piece).

Now work the 2 front pieces together from the right side as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each stitch/around each chain stitch over all stitches on the right front piece, 1 double crochet around the chain stitch mid front for the split and continue with 1 treble crochet in each stitch /around each chain stitch over all stitches on the left front piece = 51-53-55-57-61-61 treble crochets. There are now 31-33-37-37-39-43 rows on the yoke. The yoke measures 25-26-27-28-30-30 cm / 9 ¾"-10 ¼"-10 5/8"-11"-11 ¾"-11 ¾" x 34-36-41-41-43-47 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 7/8"-18 ½".
Cut the strand. You now work an edge around the yoke.

EDGE AROUND THE YOKE WITH MULTI-COLORED PATTERN:
The edge is worked in the round and in STRIPES - see description above.
Change to peach and fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the first corner – see illustration of yoke!
Work 2 single crochets around each of the first 11 rows, 3 single crochets around each of the next 9-11-15-15-17-21 rows, 2 single crochets around each of the next 11 rows (= 71-77-89-89-95-107 single crochets along the side + 1 single crochet in 1st corner), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 1 single crochet in each stitch between corners 2 and 3, but skip the same chain stitches as you skipped at the beginning of the yoke and AT THE SAME TIME increase 2-0-4-2-4-4 single crochets evenly between the corners (= 53-53-59-59-65-65 single crochets between corners 2 and 3), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 2 single crochets around each of the first 11 rows, 3 single crochets around each of the next 9-11-15-15-17-21 rows, 2 single crochets around each of the next 11 rows (= 71-77-89-89-95-107 single crochets along the side), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 1 single crochet in each stitch between corners 4 and 1, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-0-4-2-4-4 single crochets evenly spaced (= 53-53-59-59-65-65 single crochets between corners 4 and 1), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet at the beginning of the round, then work 1 slip stitch in the next single crochet (= 2nd single crochet after the 3 chain stitches in the corner) – read COLOR CHANGE!

Continue with stripes and work pattern from the round with a star in the diagrams as follows: Work A.2a (shows how the round starts and ends), A.2b over the next 66-72-84-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-14-14-15-17 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches (= 8-8-9-9-10-10 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 66-72-84-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-14-14-15-17 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches, A.2c (= corner).

When all the rounds in A.2a-A.2c have been worked, cut the strand and the 5 last rounds are folded down with right side to right side. Work chain-spaces with peach in the first round of single crochets (= round with peach):
Start around the chain-space in corner 1 and work * 1 single crochet on the right side of the light ice blue single crochet around the chain-space in the corner, 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in the first single crochet after the 3 chain stitches in the corner from the previous round, (3 chain stitches, skip the next single crochet and the single crochet where there is a single crochet already worked (light ice blue), work 1 single crochet in the next single crochet) as far as the 2nd single crochet in A.2c (= corner), work 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* 3 more times, i.e. it is worked the same way between 2nd and 3rd corner, between 3rd and 4th corner and between 4th and 1st corner. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the single crochet in the corner.

There are now 19-19-21-21-23-23 chain-spaces along the sides of both front and back pieces and 25-27-31-31-33-37 chain-spaces along each side of the yoke.

Change to raspberry and continue in the previous round worked with peach: 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 42-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches (in side under sleeve), skip the next side (between corners 1 and 2 = armhole), 1 double crochet in the single crochet in corner 2, (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space) as far as corner 3, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the single crochet in the corner, 40-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches (in side under sleeve), skip the next side (between corners 3 and 4 = armhole), 1 double crochet in the single crochet in corner 4, (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space) as far as corner 1, 3 chain stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
There are now 20-20-22-22-24-24 chain-spaces on the front and back pieces.

BODY:
Insert a marker thread mid front in the last round worked. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! The whole of the body is worked with raspberry.
Now work a round of chain-spaces (1 chain space = 3 chain stitches + 1 single crochet) around the last round with raspberry that was worked as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch on the start of round, * work a total of 10-12-14-16-18-20 chain spaces around the 40-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches in the side under the sleeve, work 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 3-3-3-3-4-4 chain-spaces, 1 chain-space around each of the next 4 chain-spaces, 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 6-6-8-8-8-8 chain-spaces, 1 chain-space around each of the next 4 chain-spaces, 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 3-3-3-3-4-4 chain-spaces *, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 single crochet in the corner = 84-88-100-104-112-120 chain-spaces on the round.

Start on the round with a star in the diagrams and work in the round as follows:
Work A.3a (shows how the round starts and ends and replaces the first stitch on the round), work A.3b a total of 42-44-50-52-56-60 times on the round.
Work round 2 (= the round with an arrow) until the piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' from the marker thread.
Work round 3 until the piece measures approx. 23 cm from the marker thread.
Work round 4 until the piece measures approx 47-48-47-49-50-50 cm / 18 ½"-18 7/8"-18 ½"-19 ¼"-19 5/8"-19 5/8".
Cut and fasten the strand. The tunic measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth. They are worked top and down with raspberry and are sewn onto the body to finish. You work a large sleeve cap back and forth where you increase fans in each side.
Work 29 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and raspberry, turn and work A.6 (= over the first 8 chain stitches), A.5 over the next 16 chain stitches, A.4 over the last 5 chain stitches. Continue back and forth like this. When you have worked 4 rows with fans in height, continue working in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S and M:
Work the last row in the diagrams, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 5-5 rows with fans in height and there are 12-12 fans in width.

Sizes L and XL:
Continue back and forth and increase in each side as before (there will be 2 more fans in width for every row worked) until you have worked 6-6 rows with fans in height, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 6-6 rows with fans and 14-14 fans in width.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth and increase in each side as before (there will be 2 more fans in width for every row worked) until you have worked 7-7 rows with fans in height, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 7-7 rows with fans and 16-16 fans in width.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working fan-groups without increasing in each side as follows:
ROW 1: Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row, A.8 over all 12-12-14-14-16-16 fans, turn.
Repeat row 1 until you have worked a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 rows without increasing in the sides.
The sleeve is now finished. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLING SLEEVES:
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the armhole on each side of the body. Place the sleeve in the armhole so that the middle of the sleeve cap is at the top of the shoulder and divide the rest of the side between rows 1 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 down to the corner at the bottom of the armhole, the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 rows on the sleeve are placed along the armhole and as far as the marker thread in the side.
Start at the marker thread in the side. Work from the inside/wrong side of the sleeve, through both layers (i.e. sleeve and armhole): 1 single crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 single crochet *, work from *-* around the whole armhole. Cut the strand.
Work a round from the right side around the sleeve as follows:
Start in the chain-space in one of the fan groups under the sleeve, work round 3 in A.3b (A.3a shows how the round starts and finishes) around the whole sleeve. Cut and fasten strand.
Assemble the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the button onto the outermost stitch at top of left front piece.
Work a loop for the button with raspberry as follows. Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the outermost stitch at the top of the right front piece, work 8 chain stitches, fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the single crochet, cut and fasten strand.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.06.2021
Correction under YOKE (not A.2b (= 2 stitches), but A.1b (= 2 stitches). ROW 2 (wrong side): Start on the row with a star in the diagrams and work A.1c (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left, A.1a (= 2 stitches).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around the chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 1 half double crochet in stitch/around chain-space
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 1 double treble crochet in stitch
symbols = work a bobble around chain-space as follows: work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 3 treble crochets around the same chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on each of the treble crochets, work 1 double crochet around the same chain-space, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook
symbols = the round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first single crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
symbols = the round begins with 2 chain stitches (replaces the first half double crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space on the round - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
symbols = the round begins with 3 chain stitches (does not replace the first double crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
symbols = the round begins with 4 chain stitches (replaces the first treble crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space.
symbols = the row begins with 4 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet on the row).
symbols = the row begins with 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet on the row).
symbols = start on this row/round, previous row/round already worked!
symbols = crochet direction
symbols = illustration shows the yoke
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Maria wrote:

Jag blir inte klok på hur jag ska läsa mönstret. V2: A1c + A2b, börja vid stjärnan. Men under raden med stjärnan på A2b är det fasta maskor. När gör jag dom?

09.06.2021 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Her har det nok blitt en feil. Det skal ikke være A.2b, men A1b. A.1b går over 2 masker slik det står i oppskriften og hekles sammen med A.1c og A.1a, men A.2b går over 6 masker og hekles sammen med A.2a og A.2c. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, vi vil lage en rettelse asap. mvh DROPS design

14.06.2021 - 10:55

country flag Elena wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en train de réaliser ce joli modèle, mais en large, crochet 4 et safran les tailles n’ont pas l’air justes. En crochetant serré un rapport Ab avec un rang de brides et un rang de doubles brides ma hauteur et ma largeur sont beaucoup plus grandes qu’attendues pour l’empiecement. Et pour l’échantillon de 10 cm j’ai 17 db au lieu de 20 en largeur et 6 rangs de db en hauteur au lieu de 7.5. N’y aurait il pas une erreur ? Par avance merci

22.04.2021 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elena, n'hésitez pas à ajuster la taille du crochet si besoin, l'échantillon est plus important - retrouvez ici encore plus d'infos sur l'échantillon. Pour régler des problèmes de hauteur une fois que vous aurez la largeur, essayez de tirer un peu plus ou un peu moins (en fonction de votre échantillon) pour que la hauteur soit aussi juste. Bon crochet!

22.04.2021 - 07:50

country flag Nikki wrote:

I followed the pattern as far as the right shoulder, but the part after does not make sense to me. Could you help me understand what the following means for a medium - "Work 16 chain stitches and continue the pattern over the right shoulder..." until the end of that paragraph?

29.09.2020 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nikki, when working 1st row on left shoulder, you worked over the 12 sts on one side of back piece then you worked front piece. Now you will crochet from WS on same row as you worked first row on left shoulder (leaving 29 sts unworked between shoulders for neckline on back piece) over 12 sts. After you have worked 16 rows in pattern cut the yarn. Crochet now 16 chains (neck on front piece) and work in pattern as before (as you crocheted on left front piece, but you have here to cut first the yarn, then crochet the chains and continue over sts on right shoulder as before). Happy crocheting!

30.09.2020 - 07:53

country flag Eneli wrote:

Jag har svårt att förstå diagrammen A.4 och A.6- vart ska tredubbelstolpen virkas- blir det före eller efter massa luftmaskor..? Ökningen av solfjädersgrupper när man ska göra ärmar är svårt att förstå just i dessa A.4 och A.6 diagrammen- vad betyder långa kedjor av luftmaskor och hur kommer tredubbelstolpen in i det hela? Tack för svaret!

01.08.2020 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eneli. Du starter ved stjernen i A.6 og hekler 1.rad (A.6-A.5-A.4). Når du har avsluttet 1 rad, skal du hekle 6 luftmasker (for å komme opp i «høyden» til 2.rad), så hekler du 10 nye luftmasker som du avslutter med å hekle 1 fastmaske i den 1. luftmasken av disse 10 luftmaskene (= en ring med luftmasker). Nå hekler du 2. rad og når du kommer til slutten av 2.rad/A.6 hekler du 5 luftmasker (= en luftmaskebue som det skal hekles i når du hekler 3. rad), så hekler du en 3-dbl stav i siste maske på 2. rad, deretter hekler du 6 luftmasker, 10 nye luftmasker og 1 fastmaske i 1. luftmaske (= en luftmaskering), så fortsetter du med 3. rad på diagrammene. God Fornøyelse!

10.08.2020 - 09:20

country flag Marie Binkowski wrote:

I am not familar with your patterns how do I find out how much yarn I need of each color am I missing something ? Thank You

06.06.2019 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Marie, on top of the pattern in section 'materials' you see how much yarn you need in each colour depending on your size. Each skein of Safran is 50 g. For example: in size S you will need: 9 skeins color 13, raspberry, 1 skein color 20, rust, 1 skein color 12, peach, 1 skein color 06, denim blue and 1 skein color 50, light ice blue. Happy crocheting!

07.06.2019 - 07:16

country flag Waltraud Brureiner wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich die Anleitung drucken will, kommt bei mir nur die 1. Seite. Scheint irgendwo ein Fehler zu sein. Bitte prüfen. Danke mfg W. Brureiner

09.12.2018 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Brureiner, beachten Sie, daß alle Seiten richtig gedruckt werden und nicht nur einige/die erste - die Druckeinstellungen prüfen. Vielleicht können Sie auch den Cache leeren und den Browser aktualisieren, das kann auch helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

10.12.2018 - 09:47

country flag Neirynck Brigitteb wrote:

Je ne comprends pas le rang 2 ( début du travail ) merci

17.07.2018 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Neirynck, au rang 2, on crochète sur l'envers les diagrammes A.1c, A.2b et A.1a en commençant au rang avec la flèche (pas l'étoile - la correction sera faite): A.1c (= 3 ml), puis on répète A.1b: *1 ml, sautez 1 m, 1 B dans la m suivante*, répétez de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m et terminez par 1 ml, sautez 1 m, 1 B dans la 4ème ml du début du rang précédent. Au rang 3, lisez de droite à gauche: A.1a, répétez A.1b et terminez par A.1c. Bon crochet!

17.07.2018 - 16:57

country flag Sabine wrote:

Cette tunique me plait bien, mais malheureusement les explications sont trop dispersées pour moi. Passer du haut du texte aux schémas en bas est assez éprouvant. J'aime quand même tous vos modèles.

20.06.2018 - 13:15