DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

My Wildflower

Crocheted long jacket in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with stripes and crochet squares. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 201-28
DROPS design: Pattern db-100
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 116-128-164 cm = 45¾"-50⅜"-64½"
Full length: 69-73-77 cm = 27⅛"-28¾"-30⅜"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-500-600 g color 02, summer meadow
300-400-500 g color 13, grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
4 repetitions of A.3b in width and 7 rows of A.3b vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
1 crochet square measures 16 x 16 cm = 6¼" x 6¼".

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Long Jackets Fun with Crochet Squares granny square sewn in sleeves shawl collar square

DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET TIP:
When working double treble crochets at the beginning of row, work 5 chain stitches instead of 3 chain stitches at the beginning of row.

STRIPES-1:
* Work 1 round with grey, 1 round with summer meadow *, work from *-*.

STRIPES-2:
Row from right side (3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch): summer meadow.
Row from wrong side (1 double crochet + 4 chain stitches): grey.

COLOR CHANGE:
When working diagrams A.1 and A.2 you crochet stripes in the round, every other stripe in each color. To avoid having to cut the strand after every round, the strand you’re not currently working with can be pulled along until the next round.
When working stripes back and forth the strand needs to be cut and fastened after every row.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work first 12 crochet squares in total. For front pieces work 4 square together into one long strip. For back piece work 4 squares together into a square, then work down along body and up towards shoulders. When front and back pieces are done, sew shoulder together before working outwards in each side for body and sleeves. Then work collar and band.

CROCHET SQUARES:
Work 4 chain stitches with grey on hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and form a ring with a slip stitch in first chain stitch. Now work STRIPES-1 - see explanation above, and A.1 4 times in total on round (A.2 shown how round begins and ends). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically, crochet square measures approx. 16 x 16 cm = 6¼" x 6¼". Work 12 crochet squares in total.

SQUARE ASSEMBLY:
Back piece: Work 4 crochet squares together into a large square - see illustration with black dot. Place 2 crochet squares with right side against right side and work together from wrong side through both layers with grey as follows: Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner. 2 of the crochet squares are now worked together. Work the other 2 together the same way. Now work the squares together so that there are 2 squares in width and 2 squares vertically: Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet on next crochet square, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner.
Right and left front piece: Work 4 crochet squares into a strip to get 4 x 1 crochet square - see illustration with cross. Place 2 crochet squares with right side against right side and work together from wrong side through both layers with grey as follows: Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner. 2 of the crochet square are now worked together. Work the other crochet squares together to form a long strip of 1 x 4 crochet squares. Work the other front piece the same way.

BACK PIECE:
Work down the back as follows:
Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in the corner with white star - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a to A.3c as follows: Work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 11 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in stitch in the corner. Continue back and forth and repeat the 2 last rows in A.3a - A.3c until piece measures 26 cm = 10¼" from crochet squares – adjust to finish after a row that equals 2nd row in A.3a - A.3c.
Now work chain spaces down along the side of rows with A.3a from wrong side and with grey as follows: Work * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 2½ cm = 1", 1 single crochet *, work from *-* evenly until 10 chain spaces have been worked along the side on back piece up to first crochet square (with white star). Cut the yarn and repeat in the other side.
Work shoulder in opposite side of the 4 crochet squares as follows: Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in the corner with black star - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a - A.3c as follows: Work A.3a around first chain space, work A.3b around each of the next 11 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in the corner. Continue back and forth until entire diagram has been worked vertically 1 time. Now work left shoulder from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: A.3c, A.3b 3 times in total, A.3a. Turn and work last row from right side. Cut the strand and work right shoulder from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Skip 4 double crochet groups for neck and fasten yarn (grey) with 1 single crochet around next chain stitch. Work A.3c, A.3b 3 times in total, A.3a. Turn and work last row from right side. Cut the yarn. The back piece is finished.

RIGHT AND LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Now work 1 row upwards towards the shoulder, along one square at the end of strip with 4 crochet squares. Begin with summer meadow and work from right side. Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in corner, work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 5 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in the corner. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work left front piece the same way as on right front piece.

SHOULDER ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Start the seam on the outermost end of the shoulder and sew towards the neck, one stitch at a time.

RIGHT SIDE AND SLEEVE:
Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with a single crochet in the corner with circle - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a - A.3c as follows:
Work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 9 chain spaces, continue with A.3b around each chain space along each of the next 2 crochet squares on back piece (= 12 repetitions A.3b), work 3 repetitions A.3b evenly up to shoulder seam and 1 repetition A.3b in last row on front piece, continue with A.3b in every chain space along each crochet square on front piece (= 24 repetitions A.3b), finish with A.3c in the corner at the bottom of front piece. There are now 1 repetition A.3a, 49 repetitions A.3b and 1 repetition A.3c along the side of piece.
When entire A.3a – A.3c have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows the same way, but on 2nd row in diagrams work the first 8 double crochets as double treble crochets – read CROCHET TIP, work the next 6 double crochets as treble crochets, work the next 22 double crochets as double crochets as before, work the next 6 double crochets as treble crochets, work the last 8 double crochets as double treble crochets (work 3rd row as shown in diagram). Continue back and forth the same way (ie: on row 2 in the diagram you work double treble crochets and treble crochets in the beginning and end of row as explained, and row 3 is worked as before) until piece measures 13-17-25 cm = 5⅛"-6¾"-9¾" at the bottom of front and back piece - adjust to finish after 3rd row in diagram. Cut the yarn.
Now work sleeve, begin from wrong side: Skip the first 15-15-14 double crochet groups (= A.3a/A.3b). Fasten strand (grey) with 1 single crochet around next chain stitch, work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the same chain stitch (= A.3c), A.3b 19 times in total, A.3c. Turn and work 3rd row back from right side - continue STRIPES-2 as before. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures approx. 48-50-52 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½" from crochet squares – adjust to finish after a row from right side. Cut the yarn.

LEFT SIDE AND SLEEVE:
Work left side and sleeve the same way as on right side and sleeve but begin from right side in the corner at the bottom of front piece instead of back piece - adjust measurements according to right side and sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the jacket so that right side is against right side and work through both layer from wrong side with summer meadow as follows:
Begin at the bottom of sleeve with a single crochet, * work 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = ⅜", work 1 single crochet *, work from *-* under sleeve and down along the side. Cut the yarn. Repeat in the other side.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF BODY:
Begin from right side at the bottom of front piece towards mid front and work with summer meadow as follows:
Fasten strand with 1 single crochet in stitch in the corner, work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 5 chain spaces, work A.3b evenly 11-14-20 times along the piece until part on back piece worked down on the 4 crochet squares at the back, work A.3b 12 times in total as before over the next 12 repetitions on back piece, work A.3b 11-14-20 times along the side of piece until crochet square on front piece, work A.3b 6 times in total along crochet square and finish with A.3c around stitches in the corner. There are now 1 repetition A.3a, 45-51-63 repetitions A.3b and 1 repetition A.3c on row. Continue back and forth with the 2 last rows in diagram (continue STRIPES-2 as before) until edge measures 4-8-12 cm = 1½"-3⅛"-4¾" from crochet squares on front piece - adjust to finish after last row in diagrams. Cut the yarn.

COLLAR:
Work collar back and forth in 1 part from left front piece and sew to neck and right front piece when finished. Work entire collar in summer meadow. Begin from right side with 1 single crochet on the inside at left shoulder seam (towards the neck) on left front piece and work from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: A.4a, A.4b, A.4c (work 2nd row from right side and 3rd row from wrong side). Continue back and forth like this and repeat the last 2 rows until 20 rows have been worked vertically. Then work the next to last row in diagram one more time. Cut the yarn. Sew the last row worked to the edge at the top on right front piece and sew collar along the back of neck (sew with small stitches to avoid a chunky seam).

BAND:
Begin from right side with summer meadow in the corner at the bottom of front piece. Work 1 single crochet around bottom row on the edge, work 4 chain stitches, 3 double crochets around next row along the edge (= A.3a), work 0-1-2 repetitions A.3b evenly up to first crochet square, continue with A.3b around every chain space along each of the 4 crochet squares on right front piece (= 6 repetitions A.3b along each of the crochet squares), continue with 1 repetition A.3b around every row along the collar (= 20 repetitions), continue down along left band the same way as on right band. When entire A.3a to A.3b have worked vertically, the band is done. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 19.03.2019
Diagram A.4 is updated

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= Begin here - this chain stitch ring is explained in the pattern (4 chain stitches + 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch). Begin first round at the point on circle
	= 1 chain stitch
	= 3 chain stitches
	= 4 chain stitches
	= 1 single crochet around chain stitch ring/chain space
	= 1 half double crochet around chain space
	= 1 double crochet around chain space
	= 1 treble crochet around chain space
	= work 2 double crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook , repeat from -* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
	= work 3 treble crochets together as follows: * Make 2 yarn over, insert hook in stitch, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook , work from -* 2 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
	= work 2 double treble crochets together as follows: * Make 3 yarn overs, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook, make a yarn over and pull yarn through the the next 2 loops on hook , work from -* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
	= work 2 triple treble crochets together as follows: * Make 4 yarn overs, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook , work from -* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
	= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round
	= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle of first chain stitch space
	= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first chain stitch) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
	= round begins with 3 chain stitches (replace first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle of first chain space
	= round begins with 3 chain stitches (replace first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
	= round begins with 4 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches up to first chain space
	= begin here when working downwards on body on back piece
	= begin here when working upwards towards the shoulders on back piece
	= begin here when right side and sleeve are worked
	= illustration shows how the 4 crochet squares are worked together for back piece
	= illustration shows how the 4 crochet squares are worked together for front pieces
	= crochet direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (49)

Sabine Liegl wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich bin etwas unsicher bei den Seitenteilen.. Häkle ich einmal Reihe 1-3 und dann mehrmals Reihe 2- 3 mit Dreifachstäbchen an den entsprechenden Stellen? Ich bin etwas verwirrt. Danke!

30.11.2023 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Liegl, meinen Sie mit Diagram A.3? Dann ja man häkelt zuerst die 3 Reihen dann wird man nur die 2 letzten Reihen wiederholen., und gleichzeitig, bei der 2. Reihe (nicht bei der 3.) wird man die 8 ersten Maschen als Dreifachstäbchen (anstatt "normale" Stäbchen) häkeln, die anderen Maschen werden wie im Diagram gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

30.11.2023 - 16:15

Maria Alfonso wrote:

Hola, me encantaría hacer este patrón pero el hilo no está disponible. Me gustaría saber que hilos podria utilizar para que la gama de colores quede similar. Muchas gracias!

15.10.2023 - 23:20

Hola María Alfonso, podrías usar otro hilo del grupo C, pero no hay multicolores. Para usar hilos multicolores podrías usar 2 hilos de DROPS Fabel.

15.10.2023 - 23:41

Alessandra wrote:

Nelle spiegazioni non vengono indicati tutti i colori utilizzati e in quale successione. E' possibie avere le spiegazioni anche di questo? grazie

19.11.2022 - 09:32

Buonasera Michela, il modello è lavorato con DROPS Big Delight, un filato che è variegato, quindi non ci sono gomitoli di colore diverso. Buon lavoro!

24.11.2022 - 20:04

Marie Bäcke wrote:

Hej. Finns inte detta garn att köpa i dessa färger längre till denna kofta: DROPS BIG DELIGHT? Marie

01.08.2022 - 21:07

Hej Marie, nej desværre, men du kan hækle den i 1 tråd DROPS Delight eller DROPS Fabel sammen med 1 tråd DROPS Alpaca og få samme effekt :)

05.08.2022 - 09:01

Macarena Domínguez Vinagre wrote:

Estoy teniendo mucha confusión con los cambios de colores

20.10.2021 - 06:36

Madarena Domínguez Vinagre wrote:

Preguntó si es posible un tutorial video para la flor.

20.10.2021 - 06:34

Hola Madarena. Todos los vídeos que pueden ayudarte a realizar la labor se encuentran bajo el patrón. No realizamos vídeos personalizados.

20.10.2021 - 22:36

Karen Hagen Liste wrote:

Oppskriften overfor (på nettet) mangler de første 4 symboler på diagramet for firkantene som er basisen for modellen. Kan dere være så snill å forteller meg hva de er og kanskje rette på oppskriften på nettet? Med vennlig hisen og takk for fine opskrifter. Karen

10.10.2021 - 16:44

Hei Karen. Litt usikker på hva du mener. Du starter med 4 luftmasker og hekler 1 kjedemaske i den 1. luftmasken. Se og les forklaringen til sirkelen med en sort prikk (første symbolet til diagrammene). Eller er det et annet diagram du mener, skriv gjerne hvilket diagram, så skal vi se på det. mvh DROPS Design

11.10.2021 - 13:10

Alicja wrote:

Dostałam odpowiedź: "Witaj Alicjo, niekoniecznie. Możesz użyć po 2 moteczki każdego koloru, a później przesuwać nitkę z boku robótki, zobacz film TUTAJ. " Tutaj ta sytuacja nie może mieć miejsca, bo nitka kolor1 po przerobieniu pierwszego rzędu zawsze zostaje końcu (patrząc od prawej strony róbótki), a ja ja będę potrzebowała w 3 rzędzie na początku . Identycznie nitka kolor 2, zawsze kończę na początku (patrząc od prawej strony), a zaczynam na końcu.

22.09.2021 - 13:58

Witaj Alicjo, masz rację. Wykonujesz nieparzystą liczbę rzędów, więc niestety będzie trzeba odcinać nitki, a później je wrabiać. Pozdrawiamy!

22.09.2021 - 16:30

Robiąc paski 2, po każdym rzędzie muszę ciąć nitkę? Widzę, że zmiany koloru są co 1 rząd, nie wracam z kolorem na początek, nie ma więc chyba innego wyjścia?

22.09.2021 - 00:25

Witaj Alicjo, niekoniecznie. Możesz użyć po 2 moteczki każdego koloru, a później przesuwać nitkę z boku robótki, zobacz film TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

22.09.2021 - 12:02

Cristina wrote:

Tengo un cierto lío con las lanas propuestas. Hay dos colores el 02 y el 13, pero solo se especifica utilizar gris al Hacer los cuadros, lo que no casa con la fotografía. Que color ea para qué?

14.06.2021 - 14:43

Hola Cristina, en las explicaciones para el patrón, en el apartado Franjas-1 te dicen que se trabaja 1 vuelta con cada color. Cuando mencionan en el patrón trabajar en Franjas-1 quiere decir trabajar 1 vuelta de cada color.

27.06.2021 - 19:31