DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.30$.

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Crocheted sweater with raglan in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 206-38
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-121
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-104-114-124-136-148 cm = 38 1/2”-41”-45”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.


MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-175-200-200-225-250 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-75-75-75 g color 16, black
25-25-25-50-50-50 g color 19, curry
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 12, powder pink
25-25-25-25-50-50 g color 06, coral
25-25-50-50-50-50 g color 18, cerise
25-25-25-50-50-50 g color 09, purple
25-25-25-50-50-50 g color 11, forest green

CROCHET GAUGE:
13 double crochets in width and 7 rows in height with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM = US I/9.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches; i.e. skip the first stitch on the previous round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the number of double crochets on the round (e.g. 58 double crochets) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 9.6.
In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in the same double crochet alternately in the 9th and 10th double crochet

STRIPES:
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand purple
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand cerise
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand curry
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand black
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand powder pink
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand coral
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand black
2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand forest green
Repeat the 16 rounds to finished length.

RAGLAN:
Increase 16 double crochets as follows:
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there are 2 double crochets left before the marker thread, work 3 double crochets in the next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread sits between these 2 double crochets), work 3 double crochets in the next double crochet (= 4 double crochets increased). A total of 16 double crochets increased on each increase-round.
Increase 8 double crochets as follows:
Increase raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there are 2 double crochets left before the marker thread, work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread sits between these 2 double crochets), work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet (= 2 double crochets increased). A total of 8 double crochets increased on each increase-round.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 double crochets left before the marker thread, work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – read description below, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread sits between these 2 double crochets), work 2 double crochets together.

WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

NECK:
Work 58-60-62-66-68-72 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 5.5 mm = I/9 and 1 strand black and 1 strand forest green (= 2 strands); form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch to end of round = 58-60-62-66-68-72 double crochets.
Work 1 round of double crochets and, at the same time, increase 6-12-10-10-12-12 double crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 64-72-72-76-80-84 double crochets.
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round, the second marker thread after the first 22-26-26-28-30-32 double crochets (= back piece), the third after the next 10 double crochets (= sleeve) and the fourth marker thread after the next 22-26-26-28-30-32 double crochets (= front piece). There are 10 double crochets left to the first marker thread (= sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Continue with double crochets and STRIPES – read description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above, on every round as follows: Increase 16 double crochets a total of 3-3-4-4-4-5 times, then 8 double crochets a total of 11-12-12-14-15-15 times – REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After the final increase there are 200-216-232-252-264-284 double crochets on the round and the piece measures approx. 20-21-23-26-27-29 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from the neck mid back. Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4”-12 1/2”.
The next round is worked as follows:
Work 57-62-67-73-78-85 double crochets (= back piece), 6-6-6-6-8-8 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip 42-46-48-52-52-54 double crochets (= sleeve), work 58-62-68-74-80-88 double crochets (= front piece), 6-6-6-6-8-8 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip 42-46-48-52-52-54 double crochets (= sleeve), work 1-0-1-1-2-3 double crochets (= back piece) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
Continue in the round with double crochets and stripes. Work 1 double crochet in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 chain stitches under the sleeves = 128-136-148-160-176-192 double crochets. Continue working until the piece measures 33 cm = 13” from the division in all sizes – adjust to after a complete stripe (= 2 rounds). Cut and fasten the strands. The sweater measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Continue in the round with double crochets and stripes . Start working in the 4th-4th-4th-4th-5th-5th chain stitch in the 6-6-6-6-8-8 chain stitches under the sleeve as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-2-2-2-3-3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-3-4-4 chain stitches under the sleeve = 48-52-54-58-60-62 double crochets. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round. When you have worked 2 rounds from the division, decrease 2 double crochets mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every round a total of 6-6-6-7-7-6 times = 36-40-42-44-46-50 double crochets. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-36-34-33-31 cm = 15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13”-12 1/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8” left to finished length – NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after a complete stripe (= 2 rounds).
Now work an edge interrupting the color-repeats (or maintaining them if you wish; there are 4 rounds left to finished length) as follows: Work 2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand purple (= 2 strands) and finish with 2 rounds with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand cerise (= 2 strands). Cut and fasten the strands. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-40-39-37 cm = 17 3/4”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Start mid back with 1 strand black and 1 strand forest green (= 2 strands) and fasten the strands with 1 slip stitch in a single crochet, work 1 chain stitch (= 1 single crochet), 1 single crochet in each double crochet to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 58-60-62-66-68-72 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Lina wrote:

Hello, I don't really understand this part of the pattern "Work 57-62-67-73-78-85 double crochets (= back piece), 6-6-6-6-8-8 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip 42-46-48-52-52-54 double crochets (= sleeve)" When working the loose stitches, should I slip stitch them after skipping?

04.11.2023 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lina, the loose chain stitches will form an arch around the skipped double crochets and will be joined to the piece when you work the next double crochet, for the front/ back piece. There is no need to join with slip stitches. Happy crochetting!

05.11.2023 - 19:43

country flag Abigail wrote:

Where about on the body does the increasing on the yoke end, because it doesn’t look right to me and looks too wide? And do you do the sleeves first or the rest of the body first, and it seems like you do more rounds before working on these things, is that correct?

25.03.2023 - 04:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Abigail, you should "After the final increase there are 200-216-232-252-264-284 treble crochets on the round and the piece measures approx. 20-21-23-26-27-29 cm from the neck mid back. Then continue to crochet until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm." In the next row should you separate the sleeves and the body. Happy Crafting!

25.03.2023 - 09:53

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hi, maybe a silly question, never made a jumper before. When increasing do you count the increase. I need to increase on the 5 treble , so i crochet 5 then increase into same treble. Then another 5 but do you count from the increase or begin counting from the next treble. Thankyou

14.02.2022 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, do you mean raglan increases? you have to set a total of 4 markers for the raglan lines, you then first increase 16 trebles on each round - see RAGLAN: work until 2 trebles remain before the stitch with the marker, work 2 trebles in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the next stitches (marker is between these 2 sts), 2 trebles in the next stitch. Can this help?

15.02.2022 - 09:05

country flag Netta *****5650 wrote:

I have started and now i started in increasing. How should I increase at the end of the round? I suppose to have 3 tr after the marker,but there isnt any room at the end of the round

29.01.2022 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dera Netta, at the beg of the round, work 1 tr, increase in next tr, continue the round increasing as explained under RAGLAN, until 2 sts remain before the end of the round, increase in next tr, finish with 1 tr in the last tr of the round = you have increased on each side of 2 tr on each marker. Happy crocheting!

31.01.2022 - 09:06

country flag Sonja wrote:

Hallo, warum benötigt die gehäkelte Variante doppelt so viel Wolle in Farbe Natur wie für den gestrickten Pullover? Kann das ein Fehler sein? Leider habe ich zu spät bemerkt, dass es beide Varianten gibt und befürchte nun viel zu wenig Wolle bestellt zu haben. Die Grammangaben für die anderen Farben sind ansonsten identisch. Vielen Dank schonmal!

02.11.2021 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sonja, der Pullover wird mit Streifen und jeweils 1 Faden Natur + 1 Faden von einer anderen Farbe gestrickt, deshalb braucht man viel mehr natur als den anderen Farben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.11.2021 - 08:14

country flag Emma wrote:

I've completed the first 62 chains and double crochet first round (for large size), but it's far too small to go over a standard size adult head. The pattern implies a circumference of 36cm at the neck (2x18cm), however the average head circumference is 55cm. I've watched your tutorial videos on chain stitch and double crochet to ensure I'm doing it correctly. Am I missing something? I don't want to continue with a jumper that won't go over my head! Thanks.

20.09.2021 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, make sure that your foundation chain is not too tight (use a larger hook if necessary), so that the first round on neck with 62 stitches should be approx 48 cm circumference and be able to go over the head - then this circumference will be divided into both neck on front/back piece and shoulders to get 18 cm width for the neck when laying flat. Happy crocheting!

20.09.2021 - 11:27

country flag Elke Ziller wrote:

Die Farbreihenfolge im Text passt nicht zum Bild

13.09.2021 - 07:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ziller, beachten Sie, daß der Pullover von oben nach unten gehäkelt wird - und die Halsblende (mit 1 Faden schwarz und 1 Faden waldgrün) wird am Ende gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.09.2021 - 09:18

country flag Emma wrote:

How much ease do I add to get the same fit as the model? I don't have any similar fit jumpers to use as a comparison, thanks.

10.09.2021 - 17:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, just take a jumper you have and like the shape to measure it and compare the measurements in the chart to find out the matching size - read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

13.09.2021 - 08:16

country flag Stine wrote:

Hei, hvordan blir denne genseren om du bruker kun 1 tråd? Anbefales det helst å bruke 2?

13.08.2020 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Stine. För att få heklefastheten att stämma i denna oppskrift så måste du bruke 2 trådar. Vill du bruke kun 1 tråd så kommer du få en annan heklefasthet och då måste du bruke en annan oppskrift. Mvh DROPS Design

14.08.2020 - 08:08

country flag Swistix wrote:

Enfin un modèle raglan au crochet! Je le réjouis MAIS les couleurs sont horribles. Il serait bon de voir ce modèle en uni

17.09.2019 - 18:14