DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Cracked Pepper Jacket

Crocheted jacket in DROPS Fabel. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern and raglan. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 207-45
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-436
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-92-102-108-122-134 cm = 33 7/8”-36 1/4”-40”-42 1/2”-48”-52 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-450-500-550 g color no 602, silver fox

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFO:
Begin every row with double crochet with 3 chain stitches (replaces first double crochet).

PATTERN: Diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet is wide.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches to be increased/decreased over (e.g. 24 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 8.
To increase evenly in this example work 2 double crochets in every 8th double crochet.
To decrease evenly in this example work every 7th and 8th double crochet together. Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochet together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in/around first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet in/around next double crochet/stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round, top-down. Work neck edge back and forth. Finally work an edge around the entire opening of jacket.

YOKE:
Work 132-141-144-153-153-159 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Fabel (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) – read CHAIN STITCH in explanation above. READ CROCHET INFO and work 1 double crochet in every chain stitch the entire row = 130-139-142-151-151-157 double crochets. Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 22-25-25-28-28-28 double crochets, * work 2 double crochets in next double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* over the next 22 double crochets (= total 11 double crochets increased), 1 double crochet in each of the next 42-45-48-51-51-57 double crochets, repeat from *-* over the next 22 double crochets (= 11 double crochets increased), 1 double crochet in each of the last 22-25-25-28-28-28 double crochets = 152-161-164-173-173-179 double crochets.

On next row insert marker threads in piece, while working move the marker threads updated to make it easier to see where every repetition begins and ends.
Work as follows from right side:
Work 1 double crochet in the first 5 double crochets (= band), A.1 over the next 21-24-24-27-27-27 double crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions) (= left front piece). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 double crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.3 over 1 double crochet (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread here. Work A.1 over the next 12 double crochets (= 4 repetitions).
Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread (= left sleeve). Work A.1 over the next 42-45-48-51-51-57 double crochets (= 14-15-16-17-17-19 repetitions) (= back piece). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 double crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.3 over 1 double crochet (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 double crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread (= right sleeve). Work A.1 over the next 21-24-24-27-27-27 double crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions) and 1 double crochet in each of the last 5 double crochets (= band) (= right front piece).
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

SIZE S AND M:
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 210-219 double crochets on row.

SIZE L, XL AND XXL:
On last row in A.1 to A.3 increase 3-3-3 double crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on each front piece – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and 6-0-12 double crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on back piece (= 12-6-18 double crochets increased in total). When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 234-237-249 double crochets on row.

SIZE XXXL:
On last row in A.1 to A.3 increase 3 double crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on back piece – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240 double crochets on row.

ALL SIZES:
There are 210-219-234-237-249-240 double crochets in total after last row in diagrams and piece measures approx. 5 cm = 2” in all sizes.

SIZE L, XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Work 5 band stiches in each side and A.1 as before, but work as follows over A.2a and A.3: Work diagram A.2a over the 2 middle double crochets in every repetition of A.2a 1-1-2-2 more times vertically (i.e. A.2a is worked 2-2-3-3 times in total vertically), over the remaining stitches work A.1 (i.e. work 2 repetitions of A.1 over every A.3 on sleeves and work 2 repetitions of A.1 on each side of A.2a). When A.2a is done there are 282-285-345-336 double crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 8-8-12-12 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”.

SIZE XXXL:
Work diagram A.2b over the middle 2 double crochets in every repetition of A.2a 1 time in total vertically, work double crochets over the remaining stitches. When A.2b has been worked, there are 384 double crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 15 cm = 6”.

ALL SIZES:
There 210-219-282-285-345-384 double crochets in total on row and piece measures approx. 5-5-8-8-12-15 cm = 2”-2”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4 3/4”-6”.

SIZE S, M, L AND XL:
Work 5 band stitches in each side and work A.1 as before but now work A.4a over the middle 2 double crochets in every repetition of A.2 a total of 2-2-1-1 times vertically, work the remaining stitches in A.1. I.e. over every A.2 work as follows: Work A.1 over 6 double crochets (= 2 repetitions), A.4a over 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and A.1 over 6 double crochets (= 2 repetitions). Every time A.4a is repeated vertically work 8 more repetitions of A.1 on row.

SIZE M, L AND XL:
Work diagram A.4b over the middle 2 double crochets in every repetition of A.4a a total of 1-1-2 times vertically, work double crochets over the remaining stitches.

SIZE XXL AND XXXL:
Work diagram A.4b over the middle 2 double crochets in every repetition of A.2 a total of 2-2 times vertically, work double crochets over the remaining stitches.

ALL SIZES:
When A.4 is done there are 258-291-330-357-393-432 double crochets on row. Piece measures approx. 12-15-15-18-19-22 cm = 4 3/4”-6”-6”-7”-7 1/2”-8 3/4”.
Work diagram A.5 over the middle 2 double crochets in every repetition of A.4 1 time in total vertically, work double crochets over the remaining stitches. I.e. over every A.4 work as follows: Work 3 double crochets, A.5 over the next 2 double crochets (= 1 repetition) and 3 double crochets. When A.5 is done there are 286-319-358-385-421-460 double crochets on row. Piece measures approx. 15-18-18-21-22-25 cm = 6”-7”-7”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”. Continue with double crochets over all stitch until piece measures 17-19-20-22-24-26 cm = 6 3/4”-7 1/2”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4” in total. Now divide for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 44-50-53-59-65-71 stitches (= front piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 double crochets (= sleeve), work 12 chain stitches (= under sleeve), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 84-87-102-105-123-138 stitches (= back piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 double crochets (= sleeve), work 12 chain stitches (= under sleeve), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 44-50-53-59-65-71 (= front piece).

BODY:
= 196-211-232-247-277-304 stitches. From here continue with 1 double crochet in every double crochet/chain stitch until finished measurements. When piece measures 3.5 cm = 1 1/4” from where body was divided from sleeves, decrease on every 4th row as follows: Decrease 6 double crochets evenly 3-3-3-2-2-2 times in total (do not decrease over band stitches) and then 3 double crochets 0-0-1-0-1-1 time in total = 178-193-211-235-262-289 stitches. When piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2” from where sleeve was divided from body, increase on every 4th row follows: 15 double crochets evenly 0-0-1-1-0-0 times in total, 9 double crochets evenly 3-3-3-2-4-3 times in total, and 6 double crochets evenly 1-1-0-1-0-1 time in total = 211-226-253-274-298-322 stitches. Continue by working double crochets until piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm = 13 3/8”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-13 3/4”-13 3/4”-13 3/4” from where body was divided from sleeves. Piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24” from neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Begin round in the 6th chain stitch of the 12 chain stitches worked under sleeve on body, then work 1 double crochet in every chain stitch/double crochet the entire round = 69-78-87-93-96-102 double crochets. Continue to work double crochets in the round. When sleeve measures 3.5 cm = 1 1/4”, decrease evenly on every 4th round as follows: Decrease 6 double crochets 0-1-3-5-6-6 times in total and 3 double crochets 5-6-4-2-0-0 times in total = 54-54-57-57-60-66 double crochets.
Continue with double crochets until piece measures 38-36-35-34-32-30 cm = 15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4” from where sleeve was divided from body (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Then work an edge around the sleeve edge as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 single crochet in first/next double crochet, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8” *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work back and forth over chain stitch row in neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Begin over band, fasten strand to piece with 1 slip stitch in first band stitch, work 1 half double crochet between every double crochet over chain stitch row in neck (replace first half double crochet with 2 chain stitches) = approx. 130-139-142-151-151-157 half double crochets.
ROW 2: Work 1 single crochet in every half double crochet (first single crochet on row replaced with 1 chain stitch) = approx. 130-139-142-151-151-157 single crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

EDGES:
Work an edge around the entire opening on jacket as follows:
Begin from right side and at the bottom of left band (when garment is worn). Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in corner, * work 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8” and work 1 single crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* along the entire edge until right band. Adjust to finish with 1 single crochet in last double crochet. Now continue up along the band on right side (when garment is worn) as follows: Work 3 chain stitches, skip until first row along band and work 1 single crochet around the outermost double crochet. ** Work 3 chain stitches, skip 1 row and work 1 single crochet around outermost double crochet on next row **, work from **-** up along the entire band. Adjust to finish with 1 single crochet in the upper row. Work from *-* along the entire neck edge until left band. Adjust to finish with 1 single crochet in last double crochet. Work from **-** down along left band and adjust so that round is finished in first stitch on round. Cut and fasten the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left front piece as follows: Sew first button approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4” down from neck edge, then fasten the remaining 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttons approx. 8-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2” apart. Button through double crochets on right band.

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This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.04.2021
Sections explaining how to knit diagrams A.4b and A.5 are corrected.
Updated online: 08.11.2021
YOKE: Work 132-141-144-153-153-159 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = work 4 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet around chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 double crochets around same chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
symbols = row/round has already been worked, begin on next row/round
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Rosa Christoffersen wrote:

Hej, I opskriften står der : hækl 5 st. I hver side og A1 som før, men der skal hækles således over A.2a og A.3 : Diagram A2a hækles over de to midterste stangmasker i hver rapport af A2a totalt 1-1-2-2 til i højden- hvordan finder jeg dem ? Og hvordan gøres det ? På forhånd tak🤞🏼

19.01.2024 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Rosa. Du har nå heklet A.1, A.2A og A.3 1 gang i høyden. 1 rapport av A.2A består nå av 14 masker og du skal nå begynne på 1. rad av A.2A igjen, som består kun av 2 masker. Disse 2 maskene skal hekles over de 2 midterste maskene av de 14 maskene, men A.1 hekles på hver side. Over de 14 maskene hekles det da slik: A.1 + A.1 + A.2A + A.1 + A.1 = 14 masker (4 steder på raden). Over A.3 som består av 6 masker (etter å ha blitt heklet 1 gang i høyden), skal A.1 hekles 2 ganger. A.1 + A.1 = 6 masker. Se i oppskriften hvor mange ganger det skal hekles totalt i høyden i den str. du hekler etter. mvh DROPS Design

29.01.2024 - 09:14

country flag Saskia Theeuwen wrote:

Ik ben aangekomen bij stuk dat ik A4a moet haken voor A2. Dat begrijp ik maar wat haak ik op het gedeelte waar ik A3 eerder gehaakt heb. Dat is niet duidelijk. Groetjes Saskia

09.11.2023 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Saskia,

De overige steken haak je zoals hiervoor, dus je haakt A.4 over de middelste steken van A.2 en de rest in A.1

13.11.2023 - 06:25

country flag Saskia Theeuwen wrote:

Ik ben aangekomen bij stuk dat ik A4a moet haken voor A2. Dat begrijp ik maar wat haak ik op het gedeelte waar ik A3 eerder gehaakt heb. Dat is niet duidelijk. Groetjes Saskia

09.11.2023 - 08:16

country flag April Humphrey-Feldman wrote:

Hi there, I am making size XL and have completed the 1st 3 rows of the chart patterns that start the yoke (so I have 5 rows total including the 2 set up rows, but not including the foundation chain). For XL, the next step is to increase "in A.1 to A.3... evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on each front piece." However, there are 3 A.1 sections on each side. Do I only increase in the 1st and last A.1 sections?

08.07.2023 - 01:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear April, an A.1 section is a section with one or more repeats of A.1. You increase 3 stitches on each front piece inside the A.1 section. Happy crocheting!

10.07.2023 - 16:36

country flag Belinda wrote:

Ik heb nu 5 cm en 234 steken voor Maat L Hoe moet ik nu verder. A2a snap ik niet. Waar doe ik dubbele paars? A1 tot het midden van a2 en daar die 2x2 stokjes?

13.06.2023 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bellinda,

In de telpatronen staat bij de eerste toer een sterretje. Deze toer is al gehaakt en staat er bij om te laten zien hoe je in de steken moet haken. In de beschrijving staat dat je A.2a over 2 steken moet haken. Je haakt dan dus 1 stokje 1 losse en 1 stokje in de eerste steek en dat doe je ook in de tweede steek. (Op de volgende toer heb je natuurlijk al meer steken op de plek waar je A.2 haakt.)

14.06.2023 - 18:07

country flag Marianne Oxenvad wrote:

Jeg vil gerne høre om i har modtaget min bestilling på garn til denne opskrift

11.01.2023 - 17:07

country flag Lara wrote:

Buonasera, non mi è chiaro se il motivo A4a sulle due maglie di A2A vada lavorato su entrambe o vada lavorato sulla prima di A2a lasciando vuota la seconda. Grazie mille

27.10.2022 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lara, deve lavorarlo sulla 1° maglia. Buon lavoro!

28.10.2022 - 21:01

country flag Myrte wrote:

Het eerst deel is gelukt. Voor maat M heb ik 5 cm. Vervolgens kom A4 erbij. Is het dan de bedoeling om naast A.4 ALLEEN A.1 te herhalen en niet meer A.2a en A.3?

29.09.2022 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Myrte,

Ja, klopt, je haakt nu alleen A.4 en over de middelste 2 stokjes haak je A.4a. Dus je haakt niet meer A.2 en A.3

02.10.2022 - 16:01

country flag Anna Paola Majer wrote:

Buongiorno, non so se ho capito bene le spiegazioni: "lavorare il diagramma A4a sulle maglie centrali di ogni ripetizioni del diagramma A2"; come dire che bisogna inserire il diagramma A4a nel diagramma A2, per fare gli aumenti? Grazie !

02.09.2022 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna Paola, dove indicato deve lavorare A.4a sulle 2 maglie centrali di A.2. Buon lavoro!

02.09.2022 - 21:49

country flag Anna Paola Majer wrote:

Percio' seguo anche il diagramma A2a per la taglia M? Grazie

31.08.2022 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna Paola, deve procedere con i diagrammi con stabilito. Buon lavoro!

31.08.2022 - 14:33