DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 211-25
DROPS design: Pattern no L-157
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
Diameter on half circle: approx. 35 cm = 13 3/4” Height without strap: approx. 30 cm = 11 3/4” Strap: approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200 g color 03, light beige

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g color 26, beige

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8½ rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1, A.2 and A.3 (A.w to A.z shows how rows in A.2 and A.3 begin and end).

CROCHET TIP (applies to chain stitches):
1 chain stitch should equal 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet in width. Make sure that loop made in chain stitch is pull on the crochet hook to avoid it being too tight. If the chain stitches are worked too tight, the pattern will tighten the sections with many chain stitches.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At beginning of every round with single crochet work 1 chain stitch, this chain stitch replace first single crochet, i.e. skip first stitch on previous round Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
At beginning of every round with double crochet work 3 chain stitches, these 3 chain stitches replace first double crochet, i.e. skip 1 double crochet from previous round Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 110 stitches) , and divide by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10 stitches) = 11.
In this example decrease by working every 10th and 11th single crochet together as follows: insert hook through next stitch, get the yarn, insert hook through next stitch, get the yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work bag back and forth in 2 parts that look like half circles. Sew these 2 part together along the outermost arch. Then work an edge around the opening at the top of bag until finished measurements. Finally work a handle. Work handle back and forth and fasten in each side on opening.

HALF CIRCLE:
Begin on hook size 5 mm = US H/8 with Bomull-Lin or Paris, work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked - read CROCHET TIP!
Work diagram A.1 (A.1 = 1 row from right side and 1 row from wrong side).
When the two rows in A.1 has been worked, work next row as follows: Work A.w over first stitch (A.w shows how row begins from right side and ends from wrong side), work diagram A.2 7 times in total in width, and finish with A.x over last stitch (A.x shows how row ends from right side and begins from wrong side).
When A.2 have been worked vertically, there are 42 chain spaces on row.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row - measure piece from this marker later.
Now work what will be bottom of bag, i.e. work A.y over first stitch, work A.3 21 times in total in width and finish with A.z over last stitch. Fasten off when A.3 has been worked. Work another half circle the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the two half circles together along the outermost arch - sew edge to edge with neat, little stitches.

EDGE AROUND OPENING:
Begin at seam in one side of bag, work 1 slip stitch, work 3 chain stitches (equals 1 double crochet), and then work 109 double crochets around the edge at the top of bag (to get an even distribution of double crochet, work approx. 2 double crochets around every double crochet and 1 double crochet around every single crochet) = 110 double crochets.
Read CROCHET INFORMATION and work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every single crochet.
Repeat round 1 and 2 until piece measures approx. 28 cm = 11” from marker.
Work 1 round with single crochets and decrease at the same time 10 single crochets evenly - read DECREASE TIP and approx. 100 single crochets. Then work single crochets in the round for 2 cm = 3/4”, with 1 single crochet in every stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn. Bag measures approx. 30 cm = 11 3/4” from marker.

STRAP:
Begin in one side on bag, and work 1 single crochet in each of the middle 8 single crochets in the side. Work single crochets back and forth over these 8 single crochets until strap measures approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4” (or desired length).
Fasten strap in the opposite side of bag with 1 single crochet in each of the middle 8 single crochets in the side (work through both layers). Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Begin here: Work 5 chain stitches and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Continue on symbol over point on circle, and work towards the left
symbols = 1 chain stitch, if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide
symbols = 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch on 1st round / in 1st chain stitch on 2nd round.
symbols = 1 single crochet in chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch ring
symbols = at beginning of round replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = at beginning of round replace first stitch with 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = Work 2 double crochets together in 1 stitch: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 more double crochet in same stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook
symbols = Work 2 double crochets together around 1 chain space as follows: Work 1 double crochet around chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 more double crochet around same chain space but on last yarn over and pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook
symbols = shows last round in A.2, this round has already been worked, begin on next round
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 211-25

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Heike wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, tolle Anleitung, vor allem mit den Videos!! Würde die Halbkreise gerne grösser machen, gibt es da eine Möglichkeit?

11.03.2024 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, wahrscheinlich aber leider können wir jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfage nicht anpassen. Sicher kann Ihnen aber Ihr Wollladen - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

11.03.2024 - 14:26

country flag Joanne Seitz wrote:

I have followed the chart and watched the tutorials. I am at the part where I will see the 2 pieces of the bag together. Should it be right side or wrong side together. I cannot tell from the videos and it is not written anywhere

23.10.2023 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joanne, The bag is sewn together edge to edge, so it does not matter which side you sew from. Happy crafting!

24.10.2023 - 07:22

country flag Katia wrote:

Buongiorno, mi farebbe piacere ricevere lo schema/spiegazione per realizzare il modello Garden Paths. Grazie, cordiali saluti.

17.07.2023 - 08:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Katia, a questo link può trovare le spiegazioni del modello in italiano. Buon lavoro!

20.07.2023 - 20:56

country flag Angela wrote:

Por favor, podrían presentar los esquemas en un solo dibujo completo y no en varias partes? Sería mucho más fácil de entender. Lo hago extensivo a todos los patrones de drops. A veces son muy difíciles de interpretar por esta razón.

17.05.2023 - 06:55

country flag Francesca wrote:

Ho ricominciato a lavorare a ferri e uncinetto da poco, e devo dire che è uno splendido modello per un ripasso e per capire bene come leggere gli schemi. Video come sempre molto chiari.

06.11.2022 - 09:39

country flag Marie wrote:

Hej Drops Jeg har et spørgsmål. Jeg er i tvivl om hvorfor der er forskel på diagrammet og videoerne. Jeg har siddet og kikket på A2, Ax og Az. Og i videoen bruges der stangmasker hvor opskriften/ diagrammet siger treblecrochets. Skal jeg blot forholde mig til diagrammet og mere bruge videoerne som guidelines. På forhånd tak for hjælpen. M.vh Marie

22.10.2022 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie, hvor langt er du kommet? Skriv gerne hvilken række i diagrammet som er fejl, så skal vi få lavet en justering :)

25.10.2022 - 13:30

country flag Cheryl wrote:

Thank you for this beautiful free pattern. I am excited to learn to crochet from charts. I am struggling with row 4 of A2. Mine comes out with 12 square holes whereas yours looks to have 14. I have pulled it back and restarted three times, counting really carefully and following your videos. Any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong would be very gratefully recieved. Or maybe it doesn’t matter that mine looks different and I should just keep going?

28.08.2022 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cheryl, A.2 is worked 7 times on the round. Each A.2 has 2 "squares" so, if you work it 7 times, you should have 14 "squares". Happy crochetting!

29.08.2022 - 00:05

country flag Elizabeth Little wrote:

Very frustrated with this chart and the videos have no sound which makes it hard to follow. It's great that people are learning to read charts but for those who are visually impaired, a chart is hard to follow and a video without sound is useless.

27.08.2022 - 10:06

country flag Doris wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, vielen Dank für eure vielen schönen Anleitungen. Ich habe bisher nur gestrickt und mich dank eurer Videos an das Häkeln der Tasche getraut. Sie ist super geworden und ich habe viel lernen können, jetzt werde ich auch häufiger häkeln. Ganz lieben Dank für die Videos, ohne die ich es bestimmt nicht geschafft hätte.

04.07.2022 - 16:18

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Bellissimo modello ho iniziato a fare i 2 semicerchi..Dove sbaglio che il diametro bin rimane diritto ma si incurva? Grazie

25.04.2022 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta, probabilmente sta stringendo un po' troppo la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

25.04.2022 - 21:08