Hello Dear Crochet Friend, Thank you for choosing my pattern. This chic and simple crochet bag can be crocheted in a couple of days if you are busy with chores and kids like I am 👪.
For this crochet bag, first you need to crochet 3 of my Dainty Pop Flower Squres.
The square pattern is written without color changes, but you can change color as you like. This is to offer you complete creative freedom and encourage you to experiment with your own colors.
This pattern contains instructions written in standard American crochet terminology, in English language. No other versions of the pattern are available (no graphs, videos or translations.)
Special stitches
Treble popcorn: This is the regular popcorn stitch using 5 treble stitches instead of double crochets.
Double spiked sc: The elongated stitch, or "spike" in the row is created by working a single crochet as you normally would, but when working the stitch, insert the hook two rows down as shown in the picture. Work the stitch as usual and proceed to the next stitch.
Materials:
Size 3.0 mm hook
Dk weight yarn
Scissors, needle, cloth to line the bag, steam iron
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
ch(s) – chain(s)
dc – double crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
sp – space
tr - treble
NOTES
- The first st of a round is worked as a standing st, or is replaced by:
- sc - ch 1 hdc - ch 2
- dc - ch 3 tr - ch 4
- Close each round with a sl st to the first st, or an invisible join
- Stitch count in ( ) at the end of each round
- Your work may become slightly wobbly, but will be flat after blocking
Dainty Pop Square Square Pattern:
Start by making a magic ring
Round 1: ch 4, 4 tr popcorn, ch 2, tr popcorn, (ch2, tr popcorn) 4 more times, sl st to join.
Round 2: Join yarn in top of any tr popcorn, ch 1, *1 sc in top of tr popcorn, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 5 times, st in first sc to join. Fasten off.
Round 3: yarn pink, join yarn in top of any sc, ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc; rep from * 11 times, slst in first sc to join.
Round 4: yarn caramel, in any ch-2 sp, ch 1, *3 sc in same ch-2 sp, move to next ch-2 sp; rep from *11 times, sl st to first ch to join, fasten off.
Round 5: Join yarn in any sc, *ch 5, sc in same sc, [ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] 3 times; rep from * 3 times, ch 2 and dc in first ch of beg ch-5 to join.
Round 6: ch 1 and sc in same ch-5 sp, in next ch-5 sp, [5 dc ,ch 3, 5 dc] in next ch-5 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, 5 dc innext ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, *[ 5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc] in next ch-5 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from *2 times, sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Round 7: Join yarn in any corner, ch 1, *[1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc] in corner sp, [ch 4, 3 dc in next sc] 2 times, ch 4; rep from * 3 times, sl st in first st to join.
Round 8: Sl st in next corner sp, *5 sc in corner sp, [5 sc in next ch-4 sp, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts] 2 times, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * 3 times, sl st in first st to join. Fasten off
Round 9: Join yarn in any middle st in corner, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc, ch 2), 1 dc in same corner sp, *BLO 1 dc in each of next 25 sts, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in next st; rep from * 2 times, 1 dc in each of next 25 sts, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join.
Round 10: in any corner sp, *[1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in corner sp, 1 sc in each of next 27 sts; rep from * 3 times, sl st in first st to join.
You can sell items made from this pattern, provided that they are handmade by yourself and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following lines to your item description and any item you are selling: "Crochet pattern by @Berayla - https://berayla.blogspot.com"
Join them horizantally, 3 squares next to eachother, with
blanket stitch, or sc (31 stitches)
This round is a “round” but after this you are going to go in
rows. Rows mean the two longer sides of the piece. So when you read row 2 you
need to crochet both long sides.
Round 1: with dark brown color. Sc around all the squares, making 2 sc in corners.
Row 2: with caramel color yarn. Dc across one long side. (do the same for
the other long side also) (93 dc)
Row 3: with pink. DC in first st, ch 1, sk 1 st, DC in next st, *DC,
CH1, sk 1 st, DC in next* sequence until the end of the row.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc until the end of the row. (93 sc)
Row 5: with cream. Ch 1, sc in same stitch, double spiked st in next st.
Repeat this *sc, double spiked sc, sc* sequence until the end of the row.
Row 6: with mocha. BLO, DC in each stitch across the row. (93
dc)
Row 7: with cream. Sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc until the end of the row. (93
sts)
Row 8: with dark brown. DC in each st until the end. (93 sts)
Row 7: with pink. Sc, double spiked sc, sc.
Row 8-10: Sc in each st.
Row 11: With mocha. Sc, double spiked sc, sc.
Row 12-14: Sc in each st.
Row 15: With Cream. Sc, double spiked sc, sc.
Row 16-19: Sc in each st.
If you like DO NOT fasten off the cream color yarn and keep
making sc stitches along the longer side. Look at :
(counting after row 8 from the longer side)
Row 9: Sc in each
stitch.
Row 10: Sc one in each stitch.
Repeat these two rows (rows 9 & 10) for the opposite side also.
Row 11: Join sides together by single crocheting across with the same color, leaving the top (opening) part of your bag :)
Now it is time for crocheting the band and the button.
You may use a wooden button, that was what I wanted at first
but then had to handmake one. So I designed a crochet button.
With pink. Magic ring.
Round 1: 8 sc into the ring
Round 2: Increase each stitch by sc ( 16 SC)
Round 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next, sc, 2 sc repeat all
around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail and sew the button to row 7 (to the appropriate row after you sew the band)
Band pattern:
With mocha. CH 13 for the foundation.
Row 1: Sc 1 in each st (12 sc)
Row 2- 19: Sc in each st. (12 sc)
Row 20: sc 4, ch 4, sk 4 sts*, sc 4.
Row 21- 25: sc 1 in each st.
Sew the band to the beginning and i the middle of the pink color rows (row 7 at the top of the bag)
Step 1: Put a slip knot on your hook and chain twice.
Step 2: Skip 1 chain and insert your hook into the next chain. You will now have 2 loops on the hook.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over...
Step 4: ...and draw up a loop. You will have 2 loops on the hook.
Step 5: Remove the second loop from the hook. (Here's where things get interesting.) Be careful not to let this loop unravel whileit's off the hook.
Step 6: Wrap the yarn over...
Step 7: ...and draw up a loop. Remember not to pull the yarn through too tightly, or it will unravel the loop that's off the hook (since that loopis still connected to the working yarn). In the photobelow, you can see the loop has gotten a little bit smaller.
Step 8: Return the second loop to the hook.
Step 9: Wrap the yarn over...
Step 10: ...and draw up a loop. You'll have 2 loops on the hook.
Continue to repeat Steps 5-10 until your I-Cord is the desired length. Always remember to avoid pulling the working yarn too tightly to keep your second loop from unraveling when it is off the hook.
Foundation Row: Ch 2.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook; rotate stitch clockwise.
Row 2: Insert hook under loop at “back” of stitch were two “V”s point to. Work 1 sc under this loop; rotate stitch clockwise.
Row 3 and beyond: Insert hook under two loops at “back” of stitch were two “V”s point to. Work 1 sc under these loops; rotate stitch clockwise.
Rep Row 3 until cord measures 55”. Cord is quite sturdy, but will stretch a bit once worn.
Fasten off and use tapestry needle to weave in ends of cords.
