Polished Marble

Crocheted shawl in DROPS Delight. Piece is crocheted top down with bobbles and lace pattern.

DROPS 214-43
DROPS design: Pattern de-216
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height: Measured along the middle = approx. 80 cm = 31 1/2”
Width: Measured along the top, edge to edge = approx. 156 cm = 61 1/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400 g color 01, grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm = US E/4
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.15.
Diagram A.1 shows the entire beginning of piece.
Diagrams A.3, A.5, A.7, A.9, A.11, A.13 and A.15 show the middle of shawl. Chain space in the middle of these diagrams = middle space.
Diagrams A.2, A.4, A.6, A.8, A.10, A.12 and A.14 show half the shawl. Therefore read the diagrams from right to left until middle of, then work the middle of shawl, then read diagrams from left to right the rest of row.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Replace first double crochet at beginning of row with 3 chain stitches.
Replace first treble crochet at beginning of row with 4 chain stitches.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 stitch is wide.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down. Read PATTERN.

SHAWL:
Use hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Delight. Read CROCHET INFORMATION and CHAIN STITCH in explanation above.

Work A.1, when A.1 has been worked, there are 11 stitches on each side of middle space (= 22 stitches + middle space in total). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Work A.2 and A.3 from wrong side as follows:
Work A.2a over first double crochet, work A.2b over the next 14 stitches, work A.2c, work A.3 over middle space, work A.2c, work A.2b over the next 14 stitches, and finish with A.2a over last double crochet. When entire A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically, there are 37 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 74 double crochets + middle space in total).

Work A.4 and A.5 from wrong side as follows:
Work A.4a over first double crochet, work A.4b over the next 36 stitches (= 3 repetitions of 12 double crochets), work A.4c, work A.5 over middle space, work A.4c, work A.4b over the next 36 double crochets (= 3 repetitions of 12 double crochets), and finish with A.4a over last double crochet. When entire A.4 and A.5 have been worked vertically, there are 71 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 142 double crochets + middle space in total).

Work A.6 and A.7 from wrong side as follows:
Work A.6a over first double crochet, work A.6b over the next 70 double crochets (= 5 repetitions of 14 double crochets), work A.6c, work A.7 over middle space, work A.6c, work A.6b over the next 70 double crochets (= 5 repetitions of 14 double crochets), and finish with A.6a over last double crochet. When entire A.6 and A.7 have been worked vertically, there are 28 chain spaces on each side of middle space (= 56 chain spaces in + middle space in total).

Work A.8 and A.9 as from right side as follows:
Work A.8a over first treble crochet, work A.8b over the next 28 chain spaces (= 7 repetitions of 4 chain spaces), work A.8c, work A.9 over middle space, work A.8c, work A.8b over the next 28 chain spaces (= 7 repetitions of 4 chain spaces), and finish with A.8a over last treble crochet. When entire A.8 and A.9 have been worked vertically, there are 37 chain spaces on each side of middle space (= 74 chain spaces in + middle space in total).

Work A.10 and A.11 from wrong side as follows:
Work A.10a over first double crochet, work A.10b over the next 36 chain spaces (= 9 repetitions of 4 chain spaces), work A.10c over next chain space, work A.11 over middle space, work A.10c over the next chain space, work A.10b over the next 36 chain spaces (= 9 repetitions of 4 chain spaces), and finish with A.10a over last double crochet. When entire A.10 and A.11 have been worked vertically, there are 155 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 310 double crochets + middle space in total).

Work A.12 and A.13 from wrong side:
Work A.12a over first double crochet, work A.12b over the next 154 double crochets (= 11 repetitions of 14 double crochets), work A.12c, work A.13 over middle space, work A.12c, work A.12b over the next 154 double crochets (= 11 repetitions of 14 double crochets), and finish with A.12a over last double crochet. When entire A.12 and A.13 have been worked vertically, there are 198 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 396 double crochets + middle space in total).

Work A.14 and A.15 from wrong side:
Work A.14a over the first 8 double crochets, work A.14b over the next 182 double crochets (= 13 repetitions of 14 double crochets), work A.14c over the next 8 double crochets, work A.15 over middle space, work A.14c over the next 8 double crochets, work A.14b over the next 182 double crochets (= 13 repetitions of 14 double crochets), and finish with A.14a over the last 8 double crochets. When entire A.14 and A.15 have been worked vertically, there are 219 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 438 double crochets + middle space in total). Cut and fasten the yarn. Shawl measures approx. 80 cm = 31 1/2” measured along middle space.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.10.2020
Correction: Symbol for 2 chain stitches corrected in diagram A.11 and A.8c.
Updated online: 23.04.2021
Diagram A.6b corrected: 1 single crochet on row 1 removed.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Begin here! Work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. See point on circle and work in same direction as arrow.
symbols = This row has already been worked. Begin on next row.
symbols = Begin diagram here (= first row in diagram)
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch ring/chain stitch/chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 stitch is wide.
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = BOBBLE: Work as follows around chain space below: 1 slip stitch, 4 treble crochets but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, 1 slip stitch, make a yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on hook
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Léa Pronnier Simon wrote:

Bonjour, Dans le nope, je n'ai que 5 mailles à écouler. L'erreur est-elle dans les explications ou est-ce moi qui me trompe ?

26.01.2023 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pronnier Simon, la noppe commence par 1 maille coulée (= insérez le crochet dans l'arceau, faites 1 jeté = 1 boucle) + 4 double-brides non fermées (= 4 boucles) + 1 maille coulée dans l'arceau (1 boucle) = avec la boucle sur le crochet, vous en avez maintenant 7. Bon crochet!

27.01.2023 - 08:54

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, la couleur de la fourniture est en gris 01, or sur la photo le châle a du gris, du noir et du blanc. A quel moment faut il changer de couleurs pour avoir ces nuances ? Merci

15.10.2022 - 22:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, la couleur 01, gris de DROPS Delight correspond à un dégradé de nuances de gris plus ou moins claires et plus ou moins foncées - cf nuancier. Ainsi, le changement de couleur se fait tout seul. Bon crochet!

17.10.2022 - 09:36

country flag Lena wrote:

Problem med A6: början på luftmaskbågarna. En av dessa är större men enligt diagrammet är detta 2 separata lmb? Får det till att v 1 av A6 ska starta (även sluta?) med 3 små lmb, sedan 1 stor, 2 små, en stor, 2 små. 1 stor osv. = 16 lmb på var sida om mittbågen? Men antalet stämmer inte då jag kommer längre fram i A6. Vad gör jag för fel?

20.10.2021 - 12:34

country flag Scotjane wrote:

400g = £9.20 can't possibly be correct. 8 x 50g balls at £2.30 = £18.40.

04.10.2020 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Scotjane, thanks for your feedback, amount of yarn/price will be adjusted. Happy crocheting!

05.10.2020 - 10:33

country flag Cloe Moins wrote:

On the last row of block 8, there are two little curved lines joining the last double crochet in 8c to the treble crochet in 9. I interpreted these as meaning a chain three, making a chain six total. But the next row, that is the first row of block 10, has the last treble crochet In 10c joined directly to the treble in 11, so the six chain group has nothing crocheted into it and just hangs out. So what should these little lines be? Thanks!

25.08.2020 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moins, the last sts in A.8C might be 2 chains (this will be checked by design team since symbols are missing in the diagram key), ie A.C finishes with 1 dc, 2 chains before A.9 - then on next row, work A.10c = 2 chains over the 2 chains from A.8c. (A.10b finishes with 3 treble in the last ch-space of A.8c). Happy crocheting!

25.08.2020 - 13:44

country flag Claudine Lévesque wrote:

Bonjour, pour le A4a, je sais que je dois commencer à la 2e ligne. Mais il n’y a qu’un demi cercle (3 mailles en l’air). Après, c’est le A4b. Je ne comprends pas. Il y a 12 brides au A2a, à la dernière ligne. Et un seul demi cercle au A4a. Je dois comprendre quoi? Ce sera le même problème au A4c. Cela fait 2 jours que je ne pense qu’à ça. Pouvez-vous m’aider?

22.08.2020 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lévesque, au 1er rang, vous crochetez: A.4a (= 1 double-bride, 3 mailles en l'air), puis A.4b (= 3 mailles en l'air (= vous avez bien un arceau de 6 mailles en l'air), 1 maille serrée dans la bride, *6 mailles en l'air, sautez 1 bride, 1 maille serrée dans la bride suivante*, répétez de *-*) terminez par 3 mailles en l'air, sautez la dernière bride, A.4c = 3 mailles en l'air (vous avez ainsi un arceau de 6 mailles en l'air), puis A.5 (= 1 bride, 5 mailles en l'air, 1 bride). Bon crochet!

24.08.2020 - 08:17

country flag Claudine Lévesque wrote:

J’ai de la misère à comprendre la partie A.4 et A.5. A.4 c’est 3 mailles en l’air. A.5 = 3 motifs de 12 brides. Ça veut dire quoi? Le plan est difficile à suivre rendu à A.4a. Il y a un seul arceau qui veut dire 3 mailles en l’air. Je ne comprends pas. Merci de votre aide.

19.08.2020 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lévesque, crochetez A.4 comme vous l'avez fait pour A.2 = commencez par A.4a, répétez A.4b et terminez par A.4c, crochetez A.5 au-dessus de A.3 et crochetez ensuite A.4c, répétez A.4b et terminez par A.4a = les diagrammes se lisent en commençant au 2ème rang = celui après celui avec l'étoile, celui avec l'étoile montre les mailles du rang précédent pour savoir comment crocheter le 1er rang de A.4/A.5. Bon crochet!

20.08.2020 - 10:07

country flag Cleo Moins wrote:

I found that, for me, the first section A1 has a better shape if you make the starting ring, then crochet nine trebles into it, forming a half circle, then make the eighteen trebles of the ‘first’ row, with two into each of the nine. The ring was too crowded with all eighteen straight into it.

17.08.2020 - 22:41

country flag Gina Rice wrote:

Absolutely gorgeous 💖

05.06.2020 - 23:29

country flag Synnøve Mollerup Vestlund wrote:

Lekkert! Og anvendelig til så mye.

04.06.2020 - 15:29