April Interlocking Crochet Square

The April interlocking crochet square is here! I hope you’ve been enjoying the interlocking squares so far! This month’s square is similar to January’s square, but I love how the center X seems to kind of explode out of the middle on this one. This square is also very similar from the front or back, and it would make a great afghan with it’s quilt-like design.

You can see all 12 squares in the Interlocking Tiles Blanket set from the main page here. You can also find video tutorials for joining the squares and making an interlocking border that looks like brickwork.

*Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase I may, at no additional cost to you, earn a commission. Read full disclosure here.

Interlocking Crochet Square - Free Crochet Pattern with Video tutorial, written directions, and charts.

You can get the free pattern below, or you can purchase a printable PDF copy of this pattern from Ravelry or Etsy using the links below!

Supplies

You can use any weight yarn and appropriate hook for these squares, though it will affect the finished size. For reference, my two samples were made in a Worsted or an Aran weight, both with an H hook, and the Aran ended up almost a full inch larger than the worsted. Here’s what I used:

Stitch Abbreviations

  • ch chain
  • st(s) stitch(es)
  • ss slip stitch
  • sc single crochet
  • dc double crochet
  • blsc back loop single crochet
  • fdc front double crochet
  • bdc back double crochet
  • fc front corner
  • bc back corner

Pattern Notes

This square uses interlocking crochet in the round. (This technique is also known as interwoven, intermeshing, or double filet crochet). In interlocking crochet, every dc has a ch1 between it and the next dc. Corner stitches will have a ch4 between dc’s. 

Except for the last row, each color only ever works into stitches of its own color. This effectively forms two meshes. The meshes are woven around each other as you work by changing whether you work stitches from the front of the work or the back of the work.

For an introduction to interlocking crochet, you can see this tutorial, though it is worked in rows rather than in the round.

There is also a complete video tutorial for this specific square (scroll down) in case you prefer video instruction. Each round in the instructions below also has a note telling what time in the video that round starts.

It is very important as you work to make sure that you are skipping the dc’s of the opposite color rows – 2dcs of the same color will always have a dc of the opposite color worked between them. 

I recommend that instead of making your turn ch at the start of the next row, you make it at the end of the previous row so that you can more easily place stitch markers and make sure your starting chains are in the correct location, either in the front or the back of the work (this is noted in the instructions).  Placing a stitch marker in the loop that would go on your hook when not in use will help to make sure you don’t accidentally unwind your work when not using that color.

Ch4’s at the start of a row count as either fdc or bdc (they count as the dc and the ch1)

There is a chart at the end of the PDF for you to use. There are two versions – one with letters written on to identify front or back stitches, with row markings in bold every other row, and one that is blank.

In my example, color A is blue or yellow, and color B is gray.

Special Stitches

Front Double Crochet (fdc): Working in front of the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1.

Back Double Crochet (bdc): Working behind the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1.

Front Corner (fc): Working in front of the other color, work (dc, ch4, dc, ch1) into the ch4 space of the same color row below.

Back Corner (bc): Working behind the other color, work (dc, ch4, dc, ch1) into the ch4 space of the same color row below.

YouTube Video Tutorial

How to Make the April Interlocking Crochet Square

Green and Gray yarn with a geometric crocheted afghan square

If you like to work with charts, you can download two different versions of this chart. The first version is a blank, color-only chart. The second one has f or b written on each stitch to designate which type of stitch you are doing, as well as having every other row marked in bold to help you keep your place.

0/1A (set up rounds) [Video 0:55]

With color A, make a magic ring (or ch3 and join to form a ring). In the ring, ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4),  dc, (ch1, dc, ch4, dc) 3 times, ch1, join to the third st of starting ch. Ch4, place stitch marker. (8dc and four ch4 spaces for corners).

With color B, ch8, join to form a ring, then ch4.

Starting from the front of your work, Insert the B color ring between the two A color dc’s, just to the right of the working yarn of A color. Your ring will be in the back, with your working B color yarn in the front. You may want to pin the ring in place with stitch markers until you have finished half of row 1B.

front view
back view

Round 1B [Video 4:35]

[place working yarn of color A to the back] Working with color B, in ring, bc, (fdc, bc) three times, join to third st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (12dc)

2A [Video 7:50]

[place color B in back] With A, fc, (bdc 2, fc) three times, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (16dc)

2B [Video 11:07]

[A in front] With B, fdc, bc, (fdc, bdc, fdc, bc) three times, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (20dc)

end of row 2B from front
End of row 2B from back

3A [Video 13:48]

[B in front] With A, bdc, fc, (bdc, fdc 2, bdc, fc) three times, bdc, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (24dc)

3B [Video 16:56]

[A in back] With B, bdc, fdc, bc [(fdc, bdc) twice, fdc, bc] three times, fdc, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (28dc)

4A [Video 20:39]

[B in back] With A, fdc, bdc, fc, (bdc, fdc, bdc 2, fdc, bdc, fc) three times, bdc, fdc, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (32dc)

4B [Video 24:53]

[A in front] With B, fdc, bdc, fdc, bc [(fdc, bdc) three times, fdc, bc] three times, fdc, bdc, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (36dc)

5A [Video 29:34]

[B in front] With A, bdc, fdc, bdc, fc, (bdc, fdc, bdc, fdc 2, bdc, fdc, bdc, fc) three times, (bdc, fdc) twice, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (40dc)

5B [Video 34:35]

[A in back] With B, (bdc, fdc) twice, bc, [(fdc, bdc) four times, fdc, bc] three times, (fdc, bdc) twice,  join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (44dc)

6A [Video 39:41]

[B in front] With A, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc, [(bdc, fdc) twice, bdc 2, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc] three times, (bdc, fdc) twice, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (48dc)

6B [Video 44:57]

[A in back] With B, (fdc, bdc) twice, fdc, bc, [(fdc, bdc) twice, fdc 3, (bdc, fdc) twice, bc] three times, (fdc, bdc) twice, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (52dc)

7A [Video 50:30]

[B in front] With A, fdc 2, bdc, fdc, bdc, bc, [(bdc, fdc) twice, fdc, bdc 2, fdc, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc] three times, (bdc, fdc) twice, fdc, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (56dc)

7B [Video 56:22]

[A in front] With B, (bdc, fdc) three times, bc, [(fdc, bdc) six times, fdc, bc] three times, (fdc, bdc) three times,  join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (60dc)

8A [Video 57:49]

[B in back] With A, bdc 2, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc, [(bdc, fdc) twice, bdc 2, fdc 2, bdc 2 (fdc, bdc) twice, bc] three times, (bdc, fdc) twice, bdc 2, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (64dc)

8B [Video 1:04:08]

[A in front] With B, (fdc, bdc) three times, fdc, bc [(fdc, bdc) 7 times, fdc, bc] three times, (fdc, bdc) three times, fdc,  join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch3, place a stitch marker (68dc)

9A [Video 1:05:25]

[B in front] With A, bdc 3, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc, [(bdc, fdc) twice, bdc 3, fdc 2, bdc 3, (fdc, bdc) twice, bc] three times, (bdc, fdc) twice, bdc 3, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Tie off A color. (72dc)

9B [Video 1:13:34]

This row is the last row of the square (hooray!). At the end of row 8B you should have done a ch3 instead of a ch4. For this row, instead of making a chain between each double crochet, you are going to work blsc into the opposite color dc. So for this row, all dc’s are worked in pattern into the B color dc below, and all blsc’s are worked into the A color dc below. This connects the two colors and makes a smooth edge! 

Note: For this row only, do not do a chain after the dc for fdc and bdc stitches, since you will be doing blsc in between the dc’s.

Here’s row 9B: blsc, (bdc, blsc, fdc, blsc) four times.  To work corner – bdc over B color chain, blsc in second st of A color ch, bdc over B color chain, blsc in fourth st of A color ch, bdc over B color chain (there should be five stitches total over the corner), *blsc, (fdc, blsc, bdc, blsc) 8 times, fdc, blsc, work corner as above. Repeat from * twice more, blsc, (fdc, blsc, bdc, blsc) 4 times, join to top of starting ch, finish off and weave in ends.

Congratulations, you’re done with your April interlocking crochet square! Make a bunch into a unique blanket, or find other creative uses – I’d love to see your creations! (tag me @kickin_crochet on instagram!)

April Square and February Square

If you liked this interlocking crochet square pattern, you may also like the Cobblestone Scarf Pattern or the Zigzag Cowl. Stay tuned for the rest of the squares – subscribe to the email list below to get notified when the latest squares are released!

This pattern and all associated images are copyrighted. If you would like to use this pattern in a roundup blog post, you may use 1 image and link to this blog post. You may not copy the pattern instructions. Thank you for supporting Kickin Crochet!

6 thoughts on “April Interlocking Crochet Square”

    1. Hi Bonnie, the gauge will depend on your yarn, hook, and tension. For me using wool of the andes worsted, my square is about 9″, but using Paintbox Simply Aran, it measures about 10″.

  1. Kathleen Johnson

    Love this square. Think there is an error in the written work at 7 A where the bracket shd have a 2. That is the only way I could get it to work.

    1. Thank you so much! Despite best efforts, sometimes we miss something – in this case, the word “twice”. I’ve updated the post and will send an updated PDF to those who have downloaded one as soon as I get off work in the morning. Cheers!

      1. Teressa Goebel

        Please would you mind sending me an updated PDF as well? Thank you!

Comments are closed.