DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 222-17
DROPS design: Pattern vs-073
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-94-104-114-124-138 cm = 34 5/8"-37"-41"-45"-48 3/4"-54 1/4"
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 12, cherry

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 treble crochets in width and 5.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Every row begins with 4 chain stitches (replace 1 treble crochet) and finishes with 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

DECREASE TIP (applies to the sides):
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble crochet in next stitch and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth separately as to similar parts. Work top down. Sew piece together in the sides as explained in pattern. Then work another 2 chain stitch rows for shoulder straps.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 34-36-40-44-46-50 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 with Belle. Work first row as follows: 1 treble crochet in 5th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet more in 5th chain stitch from hook (= 1 treble crochet increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 13-14-16-18-19-21 chain stitches, work 3 treble crochets in next chain stitch (= mid front – insert 1 marker in the middle of these 3 treble crochets, and move this marker to the middle treble crochet for every row worked), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 13-14-16-18-19-21 chain stitches, work 2 treble crochets in next chain stitch, and finish with 1 treble crochet in last chain stitch = 35-37-41-45-47-51 treble crochets.
Read CROCHET INFO and work treble crochets back and forth with 1 treble crochet in each stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME increase mid front and in each side on every row as follows:
Increase 2 treble crochets mid front by working 3 treble crochets in treble crochet with marker mid front. Increase in addition 1 treble crochet in each side by working 2 treble crochets in second and second to last treble crochet on every row (= 4 treble crochets increased on every row).
Continue like this until 8-8-9-10-11-11 rows have been worked in total (including first row worked) = 63-65-73-81-87-91 treble crochet on row, do not turn piece.
Now cast on new stitches in each side for armholes. This is done as explained below (continue increase mid front as before but do not increase in each side as before):
Begin at the end of last row worked, work 6-8-8-8-9-12 chain stitches, turn piece, work 1 treble crochet in 5th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 1-3-3-3-4-7 next chain stitches, work as before over the stitch on front piece (increase 2 stitches mid front as before), work 6-8-8-8-9-12 chain stitches at the end of row, turn piece, work 1 treble crochet in 5th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 1-3-3-3-4-7 next chain stitches and work as before over the stitches on front piece with increase mid front as before = 73-79-87-95-103-113 treble crochets on row.
Insert 1 marker in one side of piece where stitches for armhole were cast on - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Continue back and forth with treble crochet, increase mid front as before but to make the number of stitches the same decrease 1 treble crochet in each side - read DECREASE TIP.
Increase and decrease like this every row until piece measures approx. 25-26-27-28-28-29 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11"-11 3/8" from marker at the armhole or desired length.
Cut and fasten the yarn.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams - sew edge to edge with neat little stitches, to get a flat seam.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge at top along neck line on front piece as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in first treble crochet, * 2 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in next treble crochet *, work from *-* the rest of row, and finish with 1 slip stitch in last treble crochet on row. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Crochet a similar edge on back piece.

SHOULDER STRAPS:
Work 2 chain stitch rows - each of approx. 70 to 90 cm = 27 1/2" to 35 1/2", cut and fasten the strands.
Pull one shoulder strap through corner at the top of front piece and back piece (through both layers), and tie a bow at desired length on shoulder. Do the same with the other shoulder strap in opposite side of piece. Adjust straps at the top of shoulder.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Loeske wrote:

Graag mijn commentaar van 16-5-2023 verwijderen. Ik zat mis! Sorry!

18.05.2023 - 12:07

country flag Loeske wrote:

Als ik beschrijving volg (maat XL) kom ik uit op 85 stokjes na 10 toeren ( geen 81!), en na meerderingen voor de armsgaten op 105 stokjes en niet op 95 zoals patroon vermeldt. Ook vermeldt aantal stokjes na meerderingen voor andere maten kloppen niet. Graag reactie.

16.05.2023 - 19:47

country flag Mariangela wrote:

Mi potete gentilmente mandarmi lo schema grafico della lavorazione dal inizio fino alla fine perché non riesco a capire bene il procedimento dal testo?! Grazie mille

24.07.2022 - 10:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariangela, purtroppo non è possibile riscrivere i modelli in base alle singole esigenze, ma per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

24.07.2022 - 15:39

country flag Silvestre Ros wrote:

Vorrei spiegazioni più chiare per questo modello

23.06.2021 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Ros, può dirci quale parte del modello non le è chiara? Buon lavoro!

23.06.2021 - 22:54

country flag Britt-Marie Gullin wrote:

Detta mönster 222-17 young love finns inte. tacksam om ni kan ordna det mvh britt-marie gullin

13.06.2021 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britt-Marie. Tack för info, nu finns mönstret även på svenska. Mvh DROPS Design

14.06.2021 - 07:58

country flag Clarissa wrote:

Summer ready

14.01.2021 - 01:33

country flag Arianna wrote:

Tulip

08.01.2021 - 20:12