DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Rocky Trails Cardigan

Crocheted jacket in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 220-19
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-468
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-108-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color 651, sand

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row/round of double crochets, work 3 chain stitches; they replace the first double crochet, i.e. skip the first double crochet from the previous row/round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the row/round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased/decreased over (e.g. 18 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 6.
In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in each 6th stitch; do not increase over the bands.
When decreasing, work each 5th and 6th stitch together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked back and forth, top down, from mid front. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The neck is worked to finish.

YOKE:
Work 134-143-146-155-155-158 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn), with hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and Fabel – read CHAIN STITCH.
Turn and work the first row as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 132-141-144-153-153-156 double crochets. Insert a marker inside the first 5 stitches on one side. THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE.

The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 24-27-27-30-30-30 double crochets, * work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet *, work from *-* over the next 22 double crochets (= 11 stitches increased), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 40-43-46-49-49-52 double crochets, * 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet *, work from *-* over the next 22 double crochets (= 11 stitches increased) and 1 double crochet in each of the last 24-27-27-30-30-30 double crochets = 154-163-166-175-175-178 double crochets.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece, each one between 2 stitches, as follows:
Marker thread 1: Skip the first 29-32-32-35-35-35 stitches, insert the thread here (= transition between front piece and sleeve).
Marker thread 2: Skip the next 24 stitches, insert the thread here (= transition between sleeve and back piece).
Marker thread 3: Skip the next 48-51-54-57-57-60 stitches, insert the thread here (= transition between back piece and sleeve).
Marker thread 4: Skip the next 24 stitches, insert the thread here (= transition between sleeve and front piece).
There are 29-32-32-35-35-35 stitches left on the row after marker thread 4. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing.

Now work pattern 1 as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 double crochets, * work A.1 until there are 6 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 over the next 12 stitches (= 4 repeats of 3 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, work A.1 until there are 5 stitches left and work 1 double crochet in each of these 5 stitches. On the last row in the diagrams increase 0-12-12-12-12-24 double crochets evenly spaced as follows: Increase 0-3-3-3-3-6 stitches evenly on each front piece (do not increase on the bands) and increase 0-6-6-6-6-12 double crochets evenly spaced over the back piece – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 202-223-226-235-235-250 double crochets.

Now work pattern 2 as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 double crochets, * work A.1 until there are 6 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 over the next 12 stitches (= 4 repeats of 3 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, work A.1 until there are 5 stitches left and work 1 double crochet in each of these stitches. When the diagrams have been completed in height there are 250-271-274-283-283-298 stitches on the row.

Now work pattern 3 as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 double crochets, work * A.1 until there are 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12-12-12 stitches (= 3-4-4-4-4-4 repeats of 3 stitches), work A.1 until there are 3-6-6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12-12-12 stitches, A.1 until there are 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12-12-12 stitches (= 3-4-4-4-4-4 repeats of 3 stitches), A.1 until there are 3-6-6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12-12-12 stitches, work A.1 until there are 5 stitches left and work 1 double crochet in each of these stitches. When the diagrams have been completed in height there are 286-319-322-331-331-346 stitches on the row.
The increases in sizes XS and S are finished – go to ALL SIZES. Sizes M, L, XL and XXL continue to increase as follows:

Now work pattern 4 as follows (applies to sizes M, L, XL and XXL):
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 stitches, work A.1 until there are 6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12 stitches (= 3-4-4-4 repeats of 3 stitches), A.1 until there are 3-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12 stitches, A.1 until there are 6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12 stitches (= 3-4-4-4 repeats of 3 stitches), A.1 until there are 3-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12-12-12 stitches, work A.1 until there are 5 stitches left and work 1 double crochet in each of these stitches.
On the last row in the diagrams increase 0-6-6-18 double crochets as follows: Increase 0-3-3-9 double crochets evenly spaced over each sleeve.
When the diagrams have been completed in height there are 358-385-385-412 stitches.
The increases in sizes M and L are finished – go to ALL SIZES. Sizes XL and XXL, continue to increase as follows:

Now work pattern 5 as follows (applies to sizes XL and XXL):
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 stitches, work A.1 until there are 6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 over the next 9-12 stitches (= 3-4 repeats of 3 stitches), A.1 until there are 3-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12 stitches, A.1 until there are 6-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12 stitches (= 3-4 repeats of 3 stitches), A.1 until there are 3-6 stitches left before the marker thread, A.2 over the next 9-12 stitches, work A.1 until there are 5 stitches left and work 1 double crochet in each of these stitches = 421-460 stitches.
The increases in sizes XL and XXL are finished – go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
After all the increases there are 286-319-358-385-421-460 stitches on the row. Continue back and forth with pattern A.1 and 5 band stitches on each side until the piece measures 18-18-20-22-24-26 cm = 7"-7"-8"-8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 1/4" from the marker on the neck – adjust so you finish after row 2 in A.1. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 stitches, work A.1 over the first 39-45-48-54-60-66 stitches (= 13-15-16-18-20-22 repeats of A.1 = front piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 stitches (= 19-22-25-27-28-30 repeats of A.1 = sleeve), work 12 chain stitches under the sleeve, work A.1 over the next 84-87-102-105-123-138 stitches (= 28-29-34-35-41-46 repeats of A.1 = back piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 stitches (= 19-22-25-27-28-30 repeats of A.1 = sleeve), work 12 chain stitches under the sleeve, work A.1 over the next 39-45-48-54-60-66 stitches (= 13-15-16-18-20-22 repeats of A.1 = front piece) and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 5 stitches.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 196-211-232-247-277-304 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 stitches, work A.1 as before until there are 5 stitches left (= 62-67-74-79-89-98 repeats of A.1) and work 1 double crochet in each of these 5 stitches.
The next time you work row 3 in A.1, begin to decrease – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every row-3 in A.1 as follows:
Decrease 6 double crochets a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times and 0-0-3-0-3-3 double crochets a total of 0-0-1-0-1-1 time = 178-193-211-235-262-289 stitches. A.1 is now repeated 56-61-67-75-84-93 times on the row. When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2" from the division, increase evenly spaced each row-3 in A.1 as follows: Increase 15 double crochets a total of 0-0-1-1-0-0 times, increase 9 double crochets a total of 3-3-3-2-4-3 times, increase 6 double crochets a total of 1-1-0-1-0-1 time = 211-226-253-274-298-322 stitches. The increased stitches are worked into A.1. Diagram A.1 is repeated a total of 67-72-81-88-96-104 times on the row.
Continue working until the piece measures 34-36-36-36-36-36 cm = 13 3/8"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4" from the division – finish after a row of double crochets. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.
Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Start working mid-under the sleeve as follows: Work 1 single crochet in the 7th chain stitch worked under the sleeve, work 3 chain stitches (= first double crochet), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches, A.1 as before over the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 stitches and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 6 chain stitches under the sleeve = 69-78-87-93-96-102 stitches. Continue with A.1 in the round (= 23-26-29-31-32-34 repeats of 3 stitches).
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from the division, decrease evenly spaced each time you work round 3 in A.1 as follows: Decrease 6 double crochets a total of 0-1-3-5-6-6 times and 3 double crochets a total of 5-6-4-2-0-0 times = 54-54-57-57-60-66 double crochets.
Diagram A.1 is repeated a total of 18-18-19-19-20-22 times in width.
Work A.1 until the sleeve measures 39-39-38-36-35-33 cm = 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13" from the division (try the jacket on and work to desired length). Make sure the last round is a round of double crochets. Then work an edge around the sleeve as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 single crochet in the first/next double crochet, 4 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8" *, work from *-* around the whole sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the first button approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4" below the neck-edge, then the remaining 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttons with approx. 9-9-9½-8½-8½-9 cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/2"-3 5/9"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/2" between each one. The buttons are buttoned between the 3rd and 4th double crochets from the edge on the right band.

NECK-EDGE:
Start from the right side, outermost on one band and work a neck-edge with Fabel and hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 as follows:
Work 1 single crochet in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch - If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch below
symbols = 1 double crochet around the stitch or 1 double crochet around the chain-space
symbols = row/round already worked, start on the next row/round
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Susan wrote:

When crocheting pattern 2 are the 6 stitches either side of the marker single trebles? Ie you don't count all the extra stitches made in A2 on previous pattern. Thanks

15.03.2024 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, you will work 1 repeat of A.2 before marker and 1 repeat of A.2 after marker (= 12 sts in A.2 = 2 repeats in width). When A.2 is done you will have 6 trebles for each A.2 on each side of the marker. Happy crocheting!

15.03.2024 - 15:51

country flag Barbara wrote:

Bitte helfen Sie mir weiter. Häkelschrift A1 und A2 sind in den ersten Reihen gleich(!) wieso dan unterscheiden und was bedeutet das dass man beim ersten Muster bis 6 Maschen VOR den Markierer häkelt, was passiert mit diesen 6 Maschen? Beim zweiten Muster ebenso: was passiert mit den 6 Maschen? Danke, Barbara

29.04.2023 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, richtig, A.1 und A.2 sind bei der 1. und 2. Reihen ähnlich, aber bei der 3. und 4. Reihen wird man in A.2 zunehmen. Wenn Sie so was lesen ; * A.1 bis noch 6 Maschen vor dem Markierungsfaden übrig sind, A.2 über die nächsten 12 Maschen, häkeln Sie die 6 M vor der Markierung faden in A.2 - so wir der Markierungsfaden zwischen den 2 Rapporten A.2 liegen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

02.05.2023 - 08:36

country flag Debbie wrote:

In the instructions for pattern 1 when making the yoke, the text states “work A2 over the next 12 stitches ( 4 repeats of 3 stitches ) The last 2 rows of A2 are 5 stitches . How does this fit with the instructions?

27.03.2023 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, when working the diagrams you will increase in each A.2, so that each A.2 is worked over 3 sts on first row but over 6 sts on 3rd and 4th row. At the same time, A.1 will be worked over 3 sts all the way. This lesson might help you to understand how to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

27.03.2023 - 15:42

country flag Debbie wrote:

In pattern A2, the bottom half is worked over 3 stitches, the top over 5 ? Im ending up with too many stitches after the final row, and can’t work out why .

21.03.2023 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, yes, according to the diagram, in A.2, you start with 3 stitches to a repeat, and that is increased to 5 by the last row. Happy Crafting!

21.03.2023 - 18:10

country flag Henny Van Althuis wrote:

Hallo, ik ben begonnen met het haken van dit vest. Na 6 toeren heen en weer heb ik 214 steken gehaakt. Maar in de beschrijving staat dat er 385 steken moeten zijn. Ik ben nu 3 keer opnieuw begonnen maar kom steeds op netzelfde uit. Ik zie in het A1 en A2 patroon 5 toeren staan. De begin toer meegerekend. Snap er niets meer van. Hoop dat er een eenvoudige uitleg komt. Groetjes Henny

10.11.2022 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henny,

Op het moment dat je 385 steken hebt ben je al veel verder in de hoogte met het patroon. Je moet steeds alle telpatronen ook in de hoogte breien, dus alle toeren van het telpatroon. Bij elke paragraaf staat ook aangegeven: 'als de telpatronen klaar zijn in de hoogte' .

16.11.2022 - 16:53

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Au premier rang j’ai 141 brides, au rang suivant j’ai augmenté 11mailles de chaque côté ce qui me fait 163 brides Ensuite,je fais dans une maille « 1 bride,une maille en l’air, une bride »76fois plus 5 brides de chaque côté pour la bordure et le rang suivant « une bride deux mailles en l’air et une bride tout le long du rang et j’ai trop de mailles Où est mon problème?

20.07.2022 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, la taille M est ici la 3ème taille, vous devez commencer par 146 mailles en l'air, puis 144 brides au 1er rang + 2 x 11 augmentations = 166 brides. Bon crochet!

01.08.2022 - 10:09

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Bonjour Merci pour votre réponse Mais je ne suis pas encore sûrement d avoir tout compris J ai maintenant 271 mailles pour la taille M après avoir fini le 5 eme rang depuis le départ Est ce que c’est bon ?

13.07.2022 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, vous devez avoir 226 mailles en M (3ème taille) après le point fantaisie-1: (5 m bordure devant + 21 m A.1 + 12 m A.2+ 3 augmentations =41 brides ) + (12 m A.2, 12 m A.1, 12 m A.2 = 36 brides pour chaque manche) + (12 m A.2, 42 m A.1, 12 m A.2 + 6 augm = 72 m pour le dos) + 2ème manche + (12 m A.2, 21 m A.1 , 3 augm + 5 m bordure devant = 41 m devant) soit: 41+36+72+36+41= 226 m. Notez que vous n'augmentez que dans les A.2, pas dans les A.1. Bon crochet!

01.08.2022 - 10:06

country flag Evelyne wrote:

J ai commencé à tricoter les premiers rangs Je fais la taille M J’ai donc 163 mailles j’ai placé les fils marqueur et là je ne comprends plus \r\nIl est dit crocheter maintenant le point fantaisie 1 puis point fantaisie 2 puis point fantaisie 3 etc A quoi cela correspond? Je ne comprends rien Merci de m’aider

11.07.2022 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, chacun de ces 3 points fantaisie est détaillé aussitôt, il indique comment et combien de fois crocheter les diagrammes A.1 et A2. Mais la fréquence de A.2 ne sera pas la même en fonction des points fantaisie 1, 2 ou 3 (crochetez aussi le point fantaisie 4 en taille M ). Bon crochet!

12.07.2022 - 08:49

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Hi there! I am making this in S & am near the end of the yoke at “all sizes”. After doing A1 once + rows 1 & 2 (so I end on row 2), I have 17cms from the neck marker. Any suggestions on how best to adjust to get to 18cms without messing up the pattern?

12.06.2022 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Charlotte, you might have to work one extra repeat in height (with only A.1, ie without increasing or then stop here with 17cm instead of 18, but then you might lose 1 cm - check measurements if this still can fit you. Happy crocheting!

13.06.2022 - 11:14

country flag Elke Fenger-Schwindack wrote:

Wenn ihr ausführt, dass bei der Passe, A1 bis 6 Maschen vor dem Markierungsfaden gehäkelt wird, dann ist bitte welche Markierung gemeint? Die erste oder die zweite?

25.02.2022 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Fenger-Schwindack, es betrifft alle Markierungen der Runde, dh A.2 wird jeweils über die 6 Maschen vor dem Markierungsfaden + 6 Maschen nach dem Markierungsfaden (= 12 M = 4 x 3 M) gehäkelt, und A.1 wird dann dazwischen gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.02.2022 - 13:09