December Interlocking Crochet Square

It’s here at last! The December square is the last square in the interlocking tiles crochet pattern set. This square is inspired by a classic quilt motif. Like the other squares in this set, the December square includes a full video tutorial to help you along the way, as well as written instructions and two types of charts. If you prefer a printable PDF, this pattern is available to purchase via Etsy or Ravelry. Enjoy! You can see all the squares in the interlocking tiles set, purchase the set of all 12 squares for only $12, see video tutorials for joining the squares and making the border on the main Interlocking Tiles Blanket page here!

*Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase I may, at no additional cost to you, earn a commission. Read full disclosure here.

December Square Interlocking Crochet Pattern - Green and Gray Interlocking Crochet Square in Quilt Motif

You can get the free pattern below, or you can purchase an ad-free printable PDF copy of this pattern from Ravelry or Etsy using these links below!

Supplies

You can use any weight yarn and appropriate hook for these squares, though it will affect the finished size. For reference, my two samples were made in a Worsted or an Aran weight, both with an H hook, and the Aran ended up almost a full inch larger than the worsted. Here’s what I used:

Stitch Abbreviations

  • ch chain
  • st(s) stitch(es)
  • ss slip stitch
  • sc single crochet
  • dc double crochet
  • blsc back loop single crochet
  • fdc front double crochet
  • bdc back double crochet
  • fc front corner
  • bc back corner

Pattern Notes

This square uses interlocking crochet in the round. (This technique is also known as interwoven, intermeshing, or double filet crochet). In interlocking crochet, every dc has a ch1 between it and the next dc. Corner stitches will have a ch4 between dc’s. 

Except for the last row, each color only ever works into stitches of its own color. This effectively forms two meshes. The meshes are woven around each other as you work by changing whether you work stitches from the front of the work or the back of the work.

For an introduction to interlocking crochet, you can see this tutorial, though it is worked in rows rather than in the round.

There is also a complete video tutorial for this specific square (scroll down) in case you prefer video instruction. Each round in the instructions below also has a note telling what time in the video that round starts.

It is very important as you work to make sure that you are skipping the dc’s of the opposite color rows – 2dcs of the same color will always have a dc of the opposite color worked between them. 

I recommend that instead of making your turn ch at the start of the next row, you make it at the end of the previous row so that you can more easily place stitch markers and make sure your starting chains are in the correct location, either in the front or the back of the work (this is noted in the instructions).  Placing a stitch marker in the loop that would go on your hook when not in use will help to make sure you don’t accidentally unwind your work when not using that color.

Ch4’s at the start of a row count as either fdc or bdc (they count as the dc and the ch1)

There is a chart at the end of the PDF for you to use. There are two versions – one with letters written on to identify front or back stitches, with row markings in bold every other row, and one that is blank.

In my example, color A is yellow (or green in the finished picture), and color B is gray.

Special Stitches

Front Double Crochet (fdc): Working in front of the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1.

Back Double Crochet (bdc): Working behind the other color, double crochet into the dc on the same color row below, then ch1.

Front Corner (fc): Working in front of the other color, work (dc, ch4, dc, ch1) into the ch4 space of the same color row below.

Back Corner (bc): Working behind the other color, work (dc, ch4, dc, ch1) into the ch4 space of the same color row below.

December Square Video Tutorial

How to Make the December Interlocking Crochet Square

December Interlocking Crochet Blanket Square with White Furls Odyssey Hook and Green and Gray Yarn in Skeins

If you like to work with charts, you can download two different versions of this chart. The first version is a blank, color-only chart. The second one has f or b written on each stitch to designate which type of stitch you are doing, as well as having every other row marked in bold to help you keep your place.

0/1A (set up rounds) [Video 1:28]

With color A, make a magic ring (or ch3 and join to form a ring). In the ring, ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4),  dc, (ch1, dc, ch4, dc) 3 times, ch1, join to the third st of starting ch. Ch4, place stitch marker. (8dc and four ch4 spaces for corners).

Round 0/1B (Set up rounds) [Video 3:26]

With color B, ch8, join to form a ring, then ch4.

Starting from the front of your work, Lay the B color ring on top of your A color set up. The working B color yarn should be just to the right of the working A color yarn. You may want to pin the ring in place with stitch markers until you have finished half of row 1B.

[place working yarn of color A to the back] Working with color B, in ring, bc, (fdc, bc) three times, join to third st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (12dc)

2A [Video 8:02]

[place color B in back] With A, fc, (fdc, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (16dc)

2B [Video 11:03]

[place color A in front] With B, fdc, bc, (bdc 2, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (20dc)

3A [Video 14:01]

[B in front] With A, bdc, fc, [(fdc, bdc) twice, fc] three times, fdc, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (24dc)

3B [Video 17:23]

[A in front] With B, bdc, fdc, bc, (bdc, fdc2, bdc, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker. (28dc)

4A [Video 20:26]

[B in back] With A, fdc, bdc, fc, (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 2, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (32dc)

4B [Video 23:44]

[A in front] With B, bdc 2, fdc, bc, (bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc 2, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (36dc)

5A [Video 28:02]

[B in back] With A, fdc, bdc 2, fc (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc 2, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, fdc,  join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (40dc)

5B [Video 32:26]

[A in front] With B, (bdc, fdc) twice, bc, (bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, bdc, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc 2, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (44dc)

6A [Video 36:40]

[B in back] With A, bdc, fdc 2, bdc, fc (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, fdc 2, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, fdc 2, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (48dc)

6B [Video 41:08]

[A in back] With B, fdc, bdc 3, fdc, bc (bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, bdc 3, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc 2, bdc 2, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (52dc)

7A [Video 45:47]

[B in front] With A, fdc 4, bdc, fc, (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, fdc 4, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (56dc)

7B [Video 51:08]

[A in front] With B, bdc 5, fdc, bc, (bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, bdc 5, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (60dc)

8A [Video 56:48]

[B in back] With A, bdc, fdc 4, bdc, fc, (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, fdc, bdc, fdc 4, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch4, place a stitch marker (64dc)

8B [Video 1:02:29]

[A in front] With B, fdc 2, bdc 4, fdc, bc, (bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, bdc, fdc 2, bdc 4, fdc, bc) three times, bdc, fdc 2, bdc 3, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Ch3, place a stitch marker (68dc)

9A [Video 1:09:07]

[B in back] With A, bdc 2, fdc 4, bdc, fc, (fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, fdc 2, bdc 2, fdc 4, bdc, fc) three times, fdc, bdc 2, fdc 3, bdc, fdc, join to 3rd st of starting ch. Tie off A color. (72dc)

9B [Video 1:15:26]

At the end of row 8B you should have done a ch3 instead of a ch4. Instead of making a chain between each double crochet, you are going to work blsc into the opposite color dc. So for this row, all dc’s are worked in pattern into the B color dc below, and all blsc’s are worked into the A color dc below. This connects the two colors and makes a smooth edge. 

Remember: For this row only, do not do a chain after the dc for fdc and bdc stitches, since you will be doing blsc in between the dc’s.

Here’s row 9B: blsc, bdc, blsc, (fdc, blsc) twice, (bdc, blsc) four times, fdc, blsc.  To work corner – bdc over B color chain, blsc in 2nd st of A color ch, bdc over B color chain, blsc over 4th st of A color ch, bdc over B color chain (there should be five stitches total over the corner), *blsc, bdc, blsc, (fdc, blsc) twice, (bdc, blsc) 3 times, fdc, blsc, (bdc, blsc) 3 times, (fdc, blsc) twice, (bdc, blsc) four times, fdc, blsc, work corner as above. Repeat from * twice more, blsc, bdc, blsc, (fdc, blsc) twice, (bdc, blsc) 3 times, fdc, blsc, bdc, blsc, join to top of starting ch, finish off and weave in ends.

That’s it! I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern set, and I’d love to see your creations – tag me @kickin_crochet on instagram or @kickincrochet on facebook!

Green and Gray Interlocking Crochet Square With Quilt Motif
Front of Finished Square
Back of Finished Square

Check back soon for instructions on finishing the complete blanket by seaming the squares together and adding an interlocking crochet border!

If you liked this interlocking crochet square pattern, you may also like the Cobblestone Scarf Pattern or the Zigzag Cowl.

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