DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Caramel Drizzle

Crocheted jacket with short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked from the top down, with raglan and flounces. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS 231-42
DROPS Design: Pattern e-332
Yarn group A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-84-94-102-114-126 cm = 32 1/4"-33"-37"-40"-45"-49 1/2"
Full length: 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 64, light beige

DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. The last double crochet on the row is worked in the 3rd chain stitch from the previous row.
At the beginning of each row of single crochets replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. The last single crochet on the row is worked in the first chain stitch from the previous row.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (sides of body):
Work until there are 2 double crochets left before the marker, work 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches and 2 double crochets in the next stitch.
-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves, which are worked separately, back and forth.

YOKE:
Work 165-177-189-189-201-213 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and DROPS Safran – read CROCHET INFORMATION.

Work pattern and increase to raglan as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 6 stitches, A.1 over 18-20-20-20-20-22 stitches, A.2, A.1 over 36-40-44-44-48-52 stitches, A.2, A.1 over 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches, A.2, A.1 over 36-40-44-44-48-52 stitches, A.2, A.1 over 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 7 stitches.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

On row 4 in A.1 and A.2 increase as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 6 stitches, A.1 as before as far as A.2 and increase 0-0-6-0-6-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1, A.2, work the sleeve and the next A.2, work A.1 as before over the back piece and increase 0-2-10-0-12-22 stitches evenly spaced, work A.2, the sleeve and the next A.2, work A.1 as before and increase 0-0-4-0-6-12 stitches evenly spaced and 1 double crochet in each of the last 7 stitches. The increased stitches are worked into A.1.

When A.2 has been completed there are 261-275-305-301-337-371 stitches.
Work A.3 over the middle stitches in A.2, the other stitches are worked as before, i.e., in A.1 and with double crochets on each side.
When A.3 has been completed there are 329-343-373-401-437-471 stitches. The piece measures approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4"-4".

Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 47-49-55-58-64-72 stitches, skip 76-80-84-90-94-98 stitches for the sleeve, work 8 chain stitches under the sleeve, 1 double crochet in each of the next 82-86-96-104-118-130 stitches, skip 76-80-84-90-94-98 stitches for the sleeve, work 8 chain stitches under the sleeve, 1 double crochet in each of the last 48-48-54-59-67-73 stitches.

BODY:
= 193-199-221-237-265-291 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and in each chain stitch under the sleeves. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeves.
When the body measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 5-2-2-2-2-2 cm = 2"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 3-6-6-6-6-6 times = 205-223-245-261-289-315 stitches.
When the body measures 30-31-32-31-32-33 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", crochet A.1 and 1 double crochet in each of the first and last 6 stitches (front band stitches).
When A.1 has been completed, cut and fasten the strand.

FLOUNCES ON YOKE:
Work a flounce in the first row of holes on the yoke, starting from the right side:
Work 1 single crochet around the 7th stitch (skipping the band), * work 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next double crochet *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left (stop after 1 single crochet in the 7th double crochet from the edge). Turn and work A.4 around each chain-space. When A.4 has been completed, cut and fasten the strand.
Work a similar flounce along the second row of holes on the yoke.

FLOUNCES ON SLEEVE-EDGES:
Work a flounce over the skipped stitches, from the right side, as follows:
Work 1 single crochet in the first skipped stitch, * 3 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* over all the skipped stitches and finish with 1 single crochet in the first stitch crocheted under the sleeve = 38-40-42-45-47-49 chain-spaces. Work A.4, back and forth, around each chain-space.
When A.4 has been completed, cut and fasten the strand.
Work a similar flounce along the second sleeve-edge.

SLEEVES:
Work an edge around the armhole as follows:
Fold the flounce back so that you can crochet on the wrong side of the first row of flounce and work around the first row on the flounce outermost on the sleeve-edge (i.e. row with 1 single crochet and 3 chain stitches).
Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the 5th stitch under the sleeve, work 1 chain stitch (replaces the first single crochet), * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* over the next 4 stitches under the sleeve, work * 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* over the flounce-stitches, work 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 42-44-46-49-51-53 chain-spaces.
Cut the strand.
Work as follows from the right side:
Start in the 6th chain stitch down from the shoulder. Work 1 single crochet around the chain stitch, 2 double crochets around the next chain stitch (up towards the shoulder), work 2 double crochets around each of the next 9 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch around the next chain stitch = 20 double crochets.
Turn and work back from the wrong side:
3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain stitch, 2 double crochets in each stitch and 1 slip stitch around the next chain stitch on the other side = 40 double crochets.
Turn.
Work 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochets in each stitch until there is 1 double crochet left, 2 double crochets in the next stitch and 1 slip stitch around the next chain stitch = 42 double crochets.
Continue like this, increasing 1 double crochet on each side on every row a total of 10-10-12-12-14-14 times = 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches.
There are a total of 8-10-8-11-9-11 chain-spaces left.

SIZES S-M-L:
On the next row work 1 double crochet in each stitch and alternately 1 double crochet and 2 double crochets around each of the last chain stitches to the middle stitch under the sleeve. Turn and work 1 double crochet in each stitch and alternately 1 double crochet and 2 double crochets around each of the last chain stitches on the other side of work = 72-75-76 stitches.

SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL:
On the next row work 1 double crochet in each stitch and 2 double crochets around each of the last chain stitches to the middle stitch under the sleeve. Turn and work 1 double crochet in each stitch and 2 double crochets around each of the last chain stitches on the other side of work = 86-86-90 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
On the next row adjust the number of stitches to 66-72-80-86-92-98 double crochets.
Work back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures 16-17-15-15-15-15 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6"-6"-6"-6" at the shortest. Work 2 rows of single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Work an edge, starting mid-front and from the right side:
Work 1 single crochet in each stitch around the neck. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams. Sew the buttons onto the left band. The first button is 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4" down from the neck-edge, the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttons with 9-9-9½-8½-8½-9 cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/2"-3 5/9"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/2" between each one. The buttons are buttoned between the 3rd and 4th double crochet on the right band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.01.2023
CROCHET TENSION: 22 double crochets in width and 12 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = double crochet in stitch below
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = chain stitch - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in single crochet
symbols = this row has already been worked, it shows how the next row is worked in/around the stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 231-42

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Claudine Van Paemelen wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse. J'espérais trouver le diagramme du gilet en entier. Tant pis, c'est votre façon de travailler, je comprend. Sincères Salutations. Claudine Van Paemelen

08.01.2024 - 13:07

country flag Claudine Van Paemelen wrote:

Bonsoir, pouvez-vous me dire où je peux trouver le diagramme du gilet Caramel Drizzle Drops 231-42. Drops design: modèle e-332 s.v.p. Je ne comprend rien au explications, c'est nettement plus facile avec un diagramme détaillé. Merci.

05.01.2024 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Van Paemelen, ce modèle, comme nombre d'autres de nos modèles sont décomposés en différents diagrammes correspondant aux différents motifs à crocheter (ici par ex avec et sans augmentations); vous devez crocheter les diagrammes indiqués pour votre taille dans l'ordre établi dans les explications écrites. Cette leçon, notamment la partie On crochète différents diagrammes consécutivement, en allers et retours/en rond: devrait pouvoir vous aider. Bon crochet!

08.01.2024 - 09:43

country flag Inge Bloem wrote:

Ik heb dezelfde vraag als sonja van hoof stelde 09- 2022. De mouwen lukken niet , snap er ook niks van ... wat is de andere kant ?? En inderdaad er is geen losse..

10.12.2023 - 13:23

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry, próbka jest na oczka ścisłe, a wzór na słupki:) czy to nie jest błąd ( przy tej grubości włoczki i szydełka wyglada że w próbce powinny być słupki).

04.01.2023 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, sprawdziłam z norweską wersją i masz rację. Tutaj powinny być słupki. Już zgłosiłam potrzebę dokonania korekty. Dziękuję za zwrócenie uwagi i pozdrawiam

05.01.2023 - 09:02

country flag Annette wrote:

Hej! Jeg er begyndt på denne sæde cardigan, men jeg forstår ikke opskriften , jeg skal lave den i str. XL og laver de 189 luftmasker der ender med 185 masker når jeg går igang, når jeg skal til at hækle omg. 2 så passer maske antallet ikke når jeg kommer til lige efter raglan udtagningen, så er der pludselig ikke 44 masker hen til den næste men 45 ?? Og sådan er det resten af omg der er en maske for meget når jeg tæller hen til næste raglan udt. Hvad gør jeg galt her ??

10.09.2022 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annette. Om du ikke har riktig maskeantall i begynnelsen, vil det bli feil resten av veien. Husk: På hver rad med staver erstattes første stav med 3 luftmasker. Du har 189 masker og skal hekle over disse slik: 6 staver (= 3 luftmasker og 5 staver)+A.1+A.2+A.1+A.2+A.1+A.2+A.1+A.2+A.1+7 staver, (med tall blir det: 6+20+2+44+2+40+2+44+2+20+7 = 189). Med 189 staver vil resten av oppskriften stemme. mvh DROPS Design

12.09.2022 - 11:41

country flag Sonja Van Hoof wrote:

MOUWEN: rand rondom armsgat lukt, de eerste 20 stokjes ook, maar dan... "keer het werk (teruggaande toer), 3 lossen (vervangt dit een stokje?), 1 halve vaste om de volgende losse (waar? die is er toch niet, eerste steek is halve vaste van vorige toer)... HELP! Ik snap er niks van.

02.09.2022 - 08:23

country flag Sandrine C wrote:

Bonjour\r\nUne erreur sur le diagramme A2 taille SML sur le 4ème rang ??? Tous ont un nombre de brides pairs sauf celui celui-ci 11 brides à droite et 10 à gauche ???\r\nMerci pour votre réponse......

25.05.2022 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandrine, A.2 est juste ainsi, au 4ème rang, vous devez avoir un total de 22 mailles: 11 brides, 1 maille en l'air (arceau) et 10 brides. Au 5ème rang, vous aurez 26 mailles: 13 brides, 1 maille en l'air et 12 brides. Bon crochet!

25.05.2022 - 07:46

country flag Anette Schwarz wrote:

Wir in der 8. Reihe der Passe ebenso zugenommen,wie in der 4.?

20.05.2022 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, die Zunahmen in A.1 werden nur in der 4. Reihe gehäkelt - dann nehmen Sie nur wie bei A.2 /A.3 zu. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

23.05.2022 - 07:53

country flag Anette Schwarz wrote:

Mir scheint, daß in der 4. Reihe der Passe ein Fehler ist. An der ersten Schulter nicht zunehmen und an der 2. zunehmen, un A1vfür das Vorderteil fehlt ganz.

20.05.2022 - 07:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, bei der 4. Reihe wird es bei beiden Vorderteile und beim Rückenteil zugenommen; dh am Ende der Reihe häkeln Sie wie zuvor und nehmen Sie 0-0-4-0-6-12 Maschen über A.1 2. Vorderteil (zwischen A.2 und Blenden-Maschen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.05.2022 - 08:55

country flag Dsqm wrote:

Pattern name suggestion: Ocean waves

13.01.2022 - 17:47