DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Hortense Top

Crocheted short-sleeve sweater in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked bottom up with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 232-36
DROPS Design: Pattern cm-142
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-102-110-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-40"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 05, powder pink

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM = US 6.

CROCHET GAUGE:
18 double crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 cm = 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet), i.e. skip the last stitch on the previous row. Work the last double crochet of the row in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the previous row.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook.
Decrease 2 double crochets by working 3 double crochets together:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 2 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 4 loops on the hook.

INCREASE TIP (for sides):
Increase by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch. The increased stitches are worked in double crochets.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth, then sewn together. Stitches are worked around the armholes, then the sleeves worked back and forth, top down.

BACK PIECE:
Work 75-83-89-99-107-119 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 double crochets) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, 1 double crochet in each of the next 71-79-85-95-103-115 chain stitches = 73-81-87-97-105-117 stitches. Work back with 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
Then work pattern as follows:
1 double crochet in each of the first 4-3-6-6-5-6 double crochets, A.1 a total of 6-7-7-8-9-10 times, A.2 and 1 double crochet in each of the last 4-3-6-6-5-6 double crochets.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When the piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", decrease 1 double crochet on each side – read DECREASE TIP = 71-79-85-95-103-115 stitches.
Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4" = 69-77-83-93-101-113 stitches.
When the piece measures 15 cm = 6", increase 1 double crochet on each side – read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 6-6½-4½-7½-5-5 cm = 2 3/8"-2 1/2"-1 5/8"-2 7/8"-2"-2" a total of 3-3-4-3-4-4 times = 75-83-91-99-109-121 stitches.
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", bind off for the armholes as described below, cutting the strand and making sure the next row is a row of double crochets:
Skip the first 4-5-5-6-7-9 stitches for the armhole, fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the next double crochet, work 3 chain stitches (first double crochet), work 2-2-3-3-3-3 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8-6-9-7-16-15 double crochets, A.1 a total of 4-5-5-6-5-6 times, work A.2, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8-6-9-7-16-15 double crochets, work 2-2-3-3-3-3 double crochets together and 1 double crochet in the last stitch, turn (do not work the last 4-5-5-6-7-9 double crochets) = 65-71-77-83-91-99 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth, working 2-2-3-3-3-3 double crochets together on each side every row a total of 2-4-2-3-5-7 times (including the first decrease when you skipped stitches for the armholes), then work 0-0-2-2-2-2 double crochets together on each side of each row a total of 0-0-3-3-2-1 times = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
Continue the pattern over the middle stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the outermost double crochets on each side.
When the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2", continue with double crochets; finish the lace pattern if necessary.
When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8", work the neck as follows:
1 double crochet in each of the first 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches, work 2 double crochets together, turn = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other shoulder as follows:
Skip the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the last 16-17-17-18-18-19 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Cut and fasten the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as the back until the piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18 1/2" = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
Work the neck as follows:
Work as before over the first 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches (only work lace pattern where it fits in width; the other stitches are worked with double crochets), work 2 double crochets together (first decrease for neck) = 20-21-22-23-24-25 stitches.
Decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2", continue with double crochets; finish the lace pattern if necessary.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other shoulder in the same way, working the last 21-22-23-24-25-26 stitches from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew one shoulder seam and both the side seams.

NECK:
ROW 1: Work 1 single crochet around the first row after the shoulder seam, work * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8", 1 single crochet *, work from *-* around the neck and finish with 1 single crochet around the last row on the shoulder.
ROW 2: Work 2 single crochets around each chain-space.
Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the other shoulder seam.

SLEEVES:
Work an edge around the armhole as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the stitch by the side seam, * work 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* over the stitches under the sleeve, then work up the armhole as follows: * 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the next row *, work from *-* around the armhole and down to the bottom of the armhole, work the final stitches under the sleeve in the same way as the first stitches. Finish with 1 single crochet in the last stitch. Make sure your work does not tighten the armhole; work extra chain stitches between each single crochet if necessary = approx. 38-41-43-46-49-53 chain-spaces. Cut the strand.

The sleeve cap is worked back and forth over more and more chain-spaces until you have worked all the chain-spaces.
Work as follows from the right side: Start in the 5th chain stitch from the shoulder seam from the right side, work 1 single crochet around the chain-space, 2 double crochets around the next chain stitch (up towards the shoulder seam), work 2 double crochets around each of the next 7 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space = 16 double crochets. Turn and work as follows from the wrong side:
3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 2 double crochets in each double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space on the other side of the sleeve = 32 double crochets.
Turn. Work 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there is 1 double crochet left, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space = 34 double crochets.
Continue like this and increase 1 double crochet on each side a total of 5-6-8-9-10-12 times = 42-44-48-50-52-56 stitches. There remain now approx. 16-17-15-16-17-17 chain-spaces.
On the next row work alternately 1 and 2 double crochets around the last chain-spaces down to the side seam. Turn and work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and alternately 1 and 2 double crochets around the remaining chain-spaces on the other side of the sleeve = 66-69-70-74-77-81 double crochets. On the next row adjust the number of stitches to 62-65-68-74-77-81 stitches.
Continue back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" at the shortest point, decrease 1-1-1-1-0-0 double crochets on each side. Decrease like this every 3-4-7-0-0-0 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-2 3/4"-0”-0”-0” a total of 4-3-2-1-0-0 times = 54-59-64-72-77-81 stitches.
Continue back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the sleeve measures 15-15-14-14-13-12 cm = 6"-6"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-5 1/8"-4 3/4" at the shortest point. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.
Sew the sleeve seams.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.06.2022
Back piece: ... When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8", work the neck as follows: 1 double crochet in each of the first 16-17-17-18-18-19 stitches, work 2 double crochets together, turn = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder as follows: Skip the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the last 16-17-17-18-18-19 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = double crochet in stitch below
symbols = double-treble crochet around 2 chain stitches 2 rows below, i.e. work around these 2 chain stitches and the 6 chain stitches on the row below
symbols = work 2 double crochets together: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook around the chain-space below, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook.
symbols = this row has already been worked; shows how the next row is worked in the stitches
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 232-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas l'explication du premier rang de brides pour les manches. Vous expliquez que ce premier rang commence dans la 5 ème maille avant la couture d'épaule, mais ainsi le travail n'est pas équilibré ( 2 brides d'un côté et 14 brides de l'autre côté de la couture) . Est ce normal ?

12.03.2024 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, vérifiez que vous avez bien 1 maille serrée au niveau de la couture d'épaules, en commençant dans le 5ème arceau avant cette mailles serrée, vous aurez 1 ms dans cet arceau, puis 2 brides dans les 4 arceaux suivants avant la couture + 2 brides dans les 4 arceaux après la couture = 8 arceaux de 2 brides chacun = 16 brides (8 de chaque côté), terminez par 1 maille coulée dans l'arceau suivant. Bon crochet!

13.03.2024 - 08:22

country flag Marlies wrote:

Is het mogelijk om het patroon rond te haken van beneden naar boven?

01.02.2024 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlies,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om een patroon aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Je zou inderdaad in de rondte kunnen haken, maar houd er dan wel rekening mee dat het de steken elke toer een beetje verschuiven, waardoor het werk scheef kan trekken. Je zou ook het werk elke toer kunnen keren, en terug haken.

04.02.2024 - 19:15

country flag Marlies wrote:

Hoe kan ik een patroon langer maken als ik van onder naar boven werk? bijvoorbeeld van de hortense top. Ik wil deze graag 10 cm. langer maken. Hoeveel extra garen heb ik dan nodig?

28.01.2024 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlies,

Het is voor ons helaas niet mogelijk om patronen aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Hoeveel extra garen je nodig hebt, hangt ook af van je maat. Je kunt een paar extra bollen bestellen en aan de winkel waar je het garen koopt vragen wat de regels zijn voor het retourneren van overgebleven bollen.

28.01.2024 - 19:31

country flag LE GOFF wrote:

J ai beaucoup de mal à comprendre pour le démarrage du dos. soit 1bride dans chacune des premières brides, 4,3,6,6,5,6. 6.7.8.9.10 fois A1 et 1 bride dans chacune des 4.3.6.6.5.6 dernières brides. Merci de m'aider

05.01.2024 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Goff, chacun de ses chiffres correspond à la taille, autrement dit, en S, vous crochetez 4 brides, 6 xA.1, 1 x A.2 et 4 brides (et ainsi de suite pour chaque taille). Bon crochet!

08.01.2024 - 09:29

country flag Lai wrote:

Hi, I have question for the back piece starting from the armholes. Since it said make sure the next row is dc, so I started with skipped 5 stitches then double crochet for the whole row and confirmed it ended with 77 stitches. For the next row, when I decrease on each end, how many double crochet do I do before I continue A1?

05.07.2023 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lai, on 2nd row you will crochet 3 ch (1st dc), then 3 dc tog, 7 dc, A.2, A.1x5, 7 dc, 3 dc tog, 1 dc. Insert a marker before starting A.1 and after A.2 (from 1st row) so that you are sure to work A.1 and A.2 over the correct number of stitches. Happy crocheting!

06.07.2023 - 10:19

country flag Lai wrote:

Hi, I have question for the back piece starting from the armholes. Since it said make sure the next row is dc, so I started with skipped 5 stitches then double crochet for the whole row and confirmed it ended with 77 stitches. For the next row, when I decrease on each end, how many double crochet do I do before I continue A1?

05.07.2023 - 19:56

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hola, buenas tardes: Tengo problemas con las mangas. No sé cómo trabajar el punto enano, 3 cadenetas y punto enano de la copa. ¿Tendrán algún video tutorial o algunas fotos? Muchas gracias.

13.02.2023 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Claudia, puedes ver todos los videos que tenemos disponibles para esta labor después de las instrucciones del patrón. No disponemos de vídeos específicos para realizar esta labor.

16.02.2023 - 20:42

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hola. Tengo problemas al llegar a la sisa. Entiendo que el nuevo patrón aplica desde la siguiente fila de puntos altos. Luego dice: continuar con el patrón de ida y vuelta, con tres puntos altos juntos a cada lado. Esto es en la fila con los dos puntos de cadeneta? Se refiere al nuevo patrón o al primero? Los puntos a cada lado de la labor no me quedan parejos. No sé si me habré expliacado bien. Muchas gracias.

10.09.2022 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Claudia, el patrón se refiere a la estructura establecida en la primera fila explicada. Posteriormente, tienes que trabajar con A.1 sobre A.1 y A.2 sobre A.2 (y trabajar o saltar puntos altos como se explica). Cada fila empieza con 3 cadenetas (si es 1 punto alto). Después trabajas la disminución justo depués de esto O antes del último punto alto.

12.09.2022 - 23:11

country flag Anne wrote:

Jeg skjønner ikke starten på 2. rad på ermet (og de neste radene). Det står «Hekle 3 luftmasker, 1 kjedemaske om neste luftmaskebue» - hvor er neste luftmaskebue? Det er jo ingen luftmaskebuer når man skal hekle tilbake over stavene fra forrige rad.

02.09.2022 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Du skal hekle en kant rundt ermåpningen med fastmasker og luftmasker, avpass at det avsluttes med 1 fastmaske i siste maske under ermet. Klipp tråden, det skal nå være ca 38-53 luftmaskebuer. Luftmaskebuene er luftmaskene som er blitt heklet rundt ermåpningen. Nå skal det startes i den 5.luftmaske ned fra skuldersømmen. Hekle 1 fastmaske om luftmasken/luftmaskebuen, hekle 2 staver om neste luftmaske /luftmaskebue (dvs opp mot skuldersømmen), hekle 2 staver om hver av de neste 7 luftmaskene / luftmaskebuene, og avslutt med 1 kjedemaske om neste luftmaskebue = 16 staver. mvh DROPS Design

05.09.2022 - 10:56

country flag Paula wrote:

Mitä tarkoittaa piilosilmukka ktjs-kaareen hihapyöriön kerroksen alussa? Työ on käännetty, joten vastassa on 1. kerroksen 16 pylvästä eikä ketjusilmukkakaaria. Käännä työ ja virkkaa seuraava kerros (= nurja puoli) näin: Virkkaa 3 ketjusilmukkaa, 1 piilosilmukka seuraavaan ketjusilmukkakaareen... Onko hihapyöriön virkkauksesta mahdollista saada ohjevideo?

04.08.2022 - 15:44