DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Hazy Dew Vest

Crocheted vest in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up with V-neck and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 236-39
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-401
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-102-112-122-134-146 cm = 37"-40"-44"-48"-52 3/4"-57 3/8"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 10, fog

DROPS BUTTONS NO 623: 4 items in all sizes.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM = US 6.

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Each row of double crochets begins with 3 chain stitches which replace the first double crochet, i.e. skip first double crochet on previous row. Work the last double crochet on the row in the 3 rd chain stitch at the beginning from previous row.
On the edge around the armholes (round 2) replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches; the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (bands).

DECREASE TIP-1 (for armholes):
Beginning of row: Replace the number of stitches to be decreased by 1 slip stitch.
At end of row: Do not work the number of stitches to be decreased.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for V-neck):
Decrease inside the outermost 6 stitches towards the neck; i.e. when decreasing at the end of the row, work until there are 8 stitches left, decrease 1 double crochet as described below, work the last 6 stitches as before.
At the beginning of the row, work the first 6 stitches as before, decrease 1 double crochet as described below.
WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER (1 double crochet decreased):
Work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band: Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, work the next 2 double crochets together (read DECREASE TIP-2), 1 chain stitch, then continue as before.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm = 6 3/4", 9", 11 3/8" and 13 3/4"
M: 18, 24, 30 and 36 cm = 7", 9 1/2", 11 3/4" and 14 1/4"
L: 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm = 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4" and 14 1/2"
XL: 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm = 6 3/4", 9 1/2", 12 1/4" and 15"
XXL: 18, 25, 32 and 39 cm = 7", 9 3/4", 12 1/2" and 15 1/4"
XXXL: 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm = 6 1/4", 9 1/2", 12 1/2" and 15 3/4"

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth and bottom up. The piece is sewn together and sleeve-edges are worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Read CHAIN STITCH and CROCHET INFORMATION and work 68-74-80-88-96-104 chain stitches with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and DROPS Air.
Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 66-72-78-86-94-102 stitches (including the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row).
Work back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4" cut and fasten the strand.
Now start the armholes by working a row of double crochets only over the middle 60-66-70-78-84-92 stitches (3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches decreased on each side).
Continue by decreasing 1 stitch on each side of each row 0-0-0-3-3-6 times, then every 2nd row 2-3-4-4-5-5 times – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 56-60-62-64-68-70 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm = 23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8". Each shoulder is then finished separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 15-16-17-17-19-19 stitches, A.1, turn. Work back and forth like this over these 20-21-22-22-24-24 stitches until the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8". Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Start from the same side as the right shoulder, skip 16-18-18-20-20-22 stitches after for the neck, work A.2 over the next 5 stitches, then 1 double crochet in each of the last 15-16-17-17-19-19 stitches. Work back and forth like this over these 20-21-22-22-24-24 stitches until the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8". Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Work 40-43-46-50-54-58 chain stitches with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and DROPS Air.
Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 38-41-44-48-52-56 stitches (including the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row).
Work the next row as follows from the right side (mid-front): A.2 (band), 1 double crochet in each of the next 33-36-39-43-47-51 stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the band – read description above.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4", work the armhole in the same way as on the back piece; i.e. decrease 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches 1 time, then 1 stitch on each row 0-0-0-3-3-6 times and finally 1 stitch every 2nd row 2-3-4-4-5-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", start to work the V-neck:
Decrease on the inside of A.2 + 1 stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2: Decrease 1 double crochet every row 10-11-11-11-11-11 times, then every 2nd row 3-3-3-4-4-5 times.

After all the decreases to armhole and neck there are 20-21-22-22-24-24 stitches left on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8". Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 40-43-46-50-54-58 chain stitches with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and DROPS Air.
Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 38-41-44-48-52-56 stitches (including the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row).
Work the next row as follows from the right side (side): 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-36-39-43-47-51 stitches, A.1 (band). Continue this pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4", work the armhole in the side the same way as on the right front piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", start to work the V-neck.
Decrease on the inside of A.1 + 1 stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2: Decrease 1 double crochet every row 10-11-11-11-11-11 times, then every 2nd row 3-3-3-4-4-5 times.

After all the decreases to armhole and neck there are 20-21-22-22-24-24 stitches left on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8". Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams, edge to edge. Sew the side seams edge to edge, leaving 18 cm = 7" split at the bottom.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

SLEEVE-EDGES:
Start at the bottom of the armhole, with hook size 4 MM = US 6:
ROUND 1: * Work 1 single crochet in the middle of the first/next row of double crochets, work 3 chain stitches, skip 1 row of double crochets (approx. 2 cm = 3/4") *, work from *-* around the armhole, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet.
ROUND 2: Remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 slip stitch around the first chain-space, then 3 double crochets around each of the next 4 chain-spaces, work 4 double crochets around each chain-space as far as the middle 8 chain-spaces over the shoulder, work 3 double crochets around each of these 8 chain-spaces, 4 double crochets around each chain-space until there are 4 chain-spaces left under the armhole, work 3 double crochets around each of these 3 chain-spaces. Work a similar edge around the other armhole.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch below
symbols = 1 relief-treble crochet (from right side): Work 1 treble crochet around the double crochet from the previous row (do not work in the loops, but around the stitch from the front) as follows: Make 2 yarn overs, insert hook around the stitch, pick up the strand, * make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 2 more times = 1 stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet)
symbols = Start on this row – previous row already worked
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 236-39

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Emma wrote:

Nu ik 34 cm van mijn achterpand heb gehaakt moet ik beginnen aan de armsgaten. Er staat dat ik in een toer moet haken. Moet ik dan echt in het rond haken? Zo ja, hoe moet dat dan precies

17.01.2024 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Emma,

Nee, je blijft nog steeds heen en weer haken hoor. Je haakt eerst een aantal stokjes over de middelste steken en dan keer je het werk en blijf je heen en weer haken waarbij je steken mindert aan elke kant zoals aangegeven in het patroon.

17.01.2024 - 17:55

country flag Antoinette Sluijter wrote:

Ik begrijp niet waarom bij het achterpand, bij de schouders ineens A.1 en A.2 met het reliefstokje gehaakt moet worden.

16.01.2024 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Antoinette,

Op het voorpand haak je ook A.1 en A.2 en dit is om de bies te accentueren.

17.01.2024 - 18:04

country flag Aga wrote:

ZAMYKANIE OCZEK-2: zamykać 10-11-11-11-11-11 razy 1 słupek w każdym rzędzie - nie rozumiem, co należy teraz wykonać. Robię rozmiar S i obecnie mam 34 oczka. Czy teraz mam przerobić 10 oczek slupkami zamkniętymi + reszta normalnie = 29 oczek ? Następnie w kolejnym rzedzie 6 oczek zamkniętych słupków + reszta normalnie = 26 oczek ? czy słupki zamknięte maja być obok siebie czy jest pomiędzy nimi przerwa z normalnych słupków ?

23.09.2023 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, w każdym rzędzie zamykasz tylko 1 słupek na formowanie dekoltu. Aby zamknąć 1 słupek należy przerobić 2 słupki razem następująco: przerobić 1 słupek w następne oczko, ale nie wykonywać ostatniego narzutu, przerobić 1 słupek w następne oczko, a po ostatnim narzucie przeciągnąć nitkę przez 3 pętelki na szydełku. Zobacz ZAMYKANIE OCZEK-2, w którym miejscu zamykać o. na początku i na końcu rzędu. Jak zamknąć 1 słupek znajdziesz na filmie TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

25.09.2023 - 08:09

country flag Janny Spies wrote:

Bij patroon recht schouder staat: de eerste 17 steken stokjes haken. Haak zo heen en weer gehaakt over deze 22 steken tot???????? Ik heb dit meerdere malen gelezen maar snap niet hoe je van 17 steken naar 22 gaat zonder dat er staat meerderen. Mis ik misschien een regel? Alvast bedankt Jannyh

26.03.2023 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Janny,

Je haakt eerst over de eerste 17 steken en dan haak je A.1. A.1 is 5 steken, dus in totaal 22 steken.

27.03.2023 - 20:32

country flag Lili Marie wrote:

Merci de m'avoir répondu aussi rapidement,. Merci pour se joli modèle que j'adore 🥰🤩❤👍🏽

17.09.2022 - 16:05

country flag Lili Marie wrote:

Bjr\r\n Je suis à l\'épaule droite dos , je suis entrain de faire la taille xxl\r\nOn dit de faire une bride dans les 19 1ere mailles, crocheter A1 ensuite crocheter ces 24 mailles.\r\nIl nya pas eu d\'augmentation,pourquoi de 19 m je passe à 24m, je ne comprend pas \r\n\r\nLa double bride en relief avant elle doit être vers le bras ou vers l\'encolure, je suis un peu perdu, \r\nMerci pour votre réponse \r\nBonne journee

13.09.2022 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lili Marie, crochetez l'épaule droite ainsi: 19 brides + A.1 (= 5 mailles), autrement dit, vous aurez un total de 24 mailles pour l'épaule. Lorsque vous crochetez A.1, le 1er rang se fait sur l'endroit, la double-bride en relief doit être la 5ème maille à partir du bord, côté encolure (ou bien la 20ème à partir du bord, côté emmanchure). Bon crochet!

13.09.2022 - 12:08

country flag Margaretha wrote:

Warm Air

07.08.2022 - 11:50

country flag Régine wrote:

L'occasion de se faire plaisir au crochet !

06.08.2022 - 16:44