Classic Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Model Image 4

Classic Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern: A Touch of Timeless Elegance

Upgrade your style and add a touch of timeless elegance to your wardrobe with the allure of this Hoodoo Classic Cardigan free crochet pattern. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or a beginner looking to embark on a new creative journey through sustainable fashion, this pattern has you covered. Get ready to dive into the world of crochet as I help you create a versatile and sophisticated cardigan that will become a staple piece in your closet.

Jump into the pattern now, or PIN it for later here:

Imagine the satisfaction of wearing a cardigan you crafted with your own two hands, intricately stitched to withstand the test of time. Pick your favorite color (or colors!) and adapt the pattern to suit your personal style, ensuring a cardi that feels uniquely yours. Through this article, I will guide you step-by-step to create your one-of-a-kind version of this classic cardigan.

Hoodoo means “a column or pinnacle of weathered rock.” My designs are always inspired by nature – either by concept or by color. The nature of a pinnacle of weathered rock is just about as classic as it gets in the mountains so I feel like the name does it justice. I hope you love it.

This pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 18-page printable, ad-free PDF version on my Etsy shop here or on Ravelry here.

I also cover the making of this cardigan in a video tutorial so you can follow me along as you go! You can find that video further down in this post.

This classic cardigan free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library.

You can find the printable, AD-FREE version of this pattern here:

What makes this pattern eco -friendly and sustainable?

THE YARN: I use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn that has been ethically grown/raised and processed, putting the people and the planet first. This is why I chose Valley Yarns Becket for this cardigan. A deliciously soft blend of 50% super fine Alpaca and 50% Wool, this yarn is next-to-skin soft (which cannot be said for a lot of yarns that are primarily wool!). I will always support and place a high emphasis on sustainable sourcing from ethical companies that implement environmentally sustainable practices.

THE SLOW YARN MOVEMENT: I’m participating in the Slow Yarn Movement. There’s far too much to talk about here, but please take a few minutes to learn about what this means by reading the article I wrote about the Slow Yarn Movement as part of my 6-part Sustainable Crochet Series.

If you’re interested in learning more about sustainable crochet you can read all about it in the 6-part series I did covering everything about Sustainable Crochet and how to implement it into your own crafting starting today!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Classic Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Materials, Tools & Notes:

Gauge:

4”x4” = 12.5 stitches x 8.5 rows after blocking.

The gauge pattern, as above, includes both the forked cluster (FC) + sc rows just as is used in the 2-row pattern repeat. I highly encourage you to make a gauge swatch (LARGER than 4″x4″) and block it before continuing to be sure your gauge is correct to ensure the proper fit of the cardigan when you are finished. This cardigan does require blocking because the nature of the way the fabric comes together creates a natural bias which needs to be corrected with blocking.

Gauge Tips & Tricks:

Gauge is affected by many things including:

  • Yarn weight differences between brands – one worsted weight/4/Medium yarn differs from the next
  • Tension – everyone’s tension is different, some crochet tighter than others and vice versa
  • Hook size and material – hooks can differ slightly from one brand or material to the next
  • Blocking – blocking loosens stitches for most fiber types, so a blocked swatch will have less stitches per 4″ than unblocked. It is critical to know whether or not the gauge is blocked or not because the final size might differ significantly.

    How to adjust gauge:
  • Ensure you are using the proper weight of yarn as required in the pattern
  • Verify whether the gauge swatch is BLOCKED or UNBLOCKED
  • If you’re achieving MORE stitches per 4″ than the required gauge, size UP a hook
  • If you’re achieving LESS stitches per 4″ than the required gauge, size DOWN a hook

Size Chart:

This pattern is written in size XS with sizes (S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL) following in parenthesis. I am pictured wearing size XS – I’m 5’4″ with a 32“ bust.

Materials you will need:

Before you dive into the world of crocheting pigs, it’s important to gather the right materials that will set you up for success. As with any DIY project, having the correct tools and supplies can make all the difference in the outcome of your creation. Let’s take a look at what you’ll need to get started.

YARN:

Valley Yarns Becket (I chose the color FAWN)

Yarn Specs:

  • 50% Alpaca / 50% Wool | 4/Worsted/Medium
    • 141 Yards (129 m) | 3.5oz/ 100g per ball
    • Care: Hand wash in cold water, lay flat to dry
  • Quantity of balls needed: 10(11, 12, 13, 14)(14, 15, 15)
  • Which translates into this yardage: 1410(1551, 1692, 1833, 1974, 1974, 2115, 2115)

YARN SUBSTITUTION OPTIONS:

If you can’t access the recommended yarn for this classic cardigan free crochet pattern, want to explore other colors, or would just prefer to use a different yarn, here are some things to keep in mind:

  • The main stitch in this pattern (forked cluster stitch) creates a dense fabric. Please choose a yarn fiber that isn’t already characteristically stiff or your cardigan might be overbearing
  • The cardigan uses worsted weight yarn. I would NOT recommend choosing a yarn weight heavier than worsted. If you’re mightily comfortable with altering patterns yarn weight recommendations, a lighter weight could be quite elegant. But keep in mind gauge and hook size will change as well so you’ll need to feel comfortable making modifications.

OTHER TOOLS & MATERIALS:

Abbreviations used in the classic cardigan free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
FC – forked cluster (see pattern below for method)
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
PH – photo for reference

Policies & Disclaimers:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

You’re ready to dive in!

Now that you’re prepped with all the details you need to get hookin’, go grab your yarn and hooks! But what good is a fabulous cardigan if you don’t know how to style it!? Stick around to the end because I’ve got you covered with an array of styling ideas for every occasion. From casual weekends to office-chic or even glam nights out, your cardigan will effortlessly elevate any ensemble. Don’t miss it!

So, are you ready to embrace sophistication and versatility? Are you prepared to embark on a creative journey that will transform your wardrobe? With this classic cardigan free crochet pattern by your side, unleash your style, unleash your creativity and prepare to revamp your wardrobe with the timeless elegance you’ve been craving.

Big Picture & Visioning:

I thought it would be helpful to give a quick description and a few photos describing the “big picture” of the construction and assembly of this cardigan.

The cardigan is crocheted in ONE piece and then folded in half crosswise, seamed up the sides and finished with ribbed cuffs and collar. We are going to do this in 4 sections. Here is the gist so you can envision this as you go along, hopefully making the process more clear!

The Classic Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern:

Section 1: Ribbed hem + back panel

NOTES:

  • The ch 1 or 2 at the end of each row does NOT count as a stitch
  • The nature of this stitch creates a natural bias to your fabric – so don’t panic if it looks like your cardigan is coming together with a slight diagonal! Blocking will correct this. So, if you’re opposed to or scared of blocking, here’s your chance to conquer that, because it’ll need it!

How to make a Forked Cluster (FC):

The forked cluster is a stitch that is a variation on crocheting 2 double crochets together. The 2 double crochets that make up this stitch, we refer to as “legs”. Here is how to make the stitch:

  • Yarn over, insert hook into the same st as the 2nd leg of the last FC
  • Yarn over and pull up a loop
  • Yarn over, insert hook into the next st,
  • Yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on the hook)
  • Yarn over, and pull through 3 loops on the hook
  • Yarn over and pull through final 3 loops on the hook

Ribbed Hem: Begin by chaining 11

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hk and each ch thereafter, ch 1, turn [10]

Row 2-38(40, 42, 44, 46)(48, 50, 52): BLO hdc across, ch 1 turn [10]

When the hem is complete, there is no right or wrong side yet. From here, begin straight away with the first row of the back panel going along the top edge of the hem (be sure you made your ch 1 at the end of the last row of ribbing). Since the ribs are made of hdc, the ratio of stitches you’re going to achieve for Row 1 of the panel will be 1.5 st per total rib count of the hem. I achieve this by placing 1 st in the end of the first rib, 2 st in the next rib, 1 st in the next rib… and so on to the end of the ribbed hem.

We’ll start the row count over now as we begin the back of the panel:

Row 1 (WS): sc evenly across the top of the hem, achieving the proper stitch count as follows: [57](60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78) ch 2, turn

Row 2 (RS): FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [57](60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78)

Row 3 (WS): sc across, ch 2, turn [57](60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78)

Row 4-42(44, 46, 48, 50)(52, 52, 52): repeat Rows 2 & 3, ending with a row of FC.

SECTION 2: First half of sleeves

We will now extend the panel to begin adding in the sleeves. Picking up where you left off after your last row of FC (RS), ch 47(49, 49, 51, 51)(53, 53, 53), set working yarn aside for now but do not snip.

With a new skein of yarn, slip knot onto your hook and rejoin in the opposite corner of the panel where the other sleeve will go. Chain 46(48, 48, 50, 50)(52, 52, 52) (yes, this chain is 1 less than the first sleeve because you don’t have to add in the turning ch) and fasten off.

Pick up back where you left off with your working yarn and we’re going to restart the row count again as we start this new section…

Row 1 (WS): sc in 2nd back bump of ch and each ch thereafter [46](48, 48, 50, 50)(52, 52, 52), then continue across the top of the back panel [57](60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78), then continue to the other chain you made, and sc in each of the back bumps of the chain [46](48, 48, 50, 50)(52, 52, 52). Your row count will now be [149](156, 159, 166, 171)(176, 179, 182), ch 2, turn.

Row 2 (RS): FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [149](156, 159, 166, 171)(176, 179, 182)

Row 3 (WS): sc across, ch 2, turn [149](156, 159, 166, 171)(176, 179, 182)

Row 4-14(14, 16, 16, 18)(18, 20, 20): repeat Rows 2 & 3, ending with a row of FC.

SECTION 3: Second half of sleeves + front panels

We will now begin the second half of the sleeves which splits for the neckline. We we will start straight away where we left off. You’ll make Section 3 AND Section 4 on one side, then come back and repeat section 3 and 4 for the other side. Since we’re still on the sleeves, we will continue with our row count sequence: [149](156, 159, 166, 171)(176, 179, 182)

Row 15(15, 17, 17, 19)(19, 21, 21): sc 68(71, 73, 76, 78)(81, 83, 84) across, ch 2, turn

Row 16(16, 18, 18, 20)(20, 22, 22): FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [68](71, 73, 76, 78)(81, 83, 84)

Row 17-28(17-28, 19-32, 19-32, 21-36)(21-36, 23-40, 23-40): repeat rows 17 & 18, ending with a row of FC, ch 1, turn (except no need to ch 1 & turn on final row)

Fasten off and weave in end.

SECTION 4: Front panels + hem

We are now finished with the sleeve and will carry on with our front panel. Since we are starting Section 4 of the cardigan, we’re going to start our row count over again.

Beginning with the inner edge of the last row of Section 3, count 22(23, 25, 26, 28)(29, 31, 32) stitches across and place a stitch marker there. With WS facing, rejoin yarn where you just placed a stitch marker and begin Row 1:

Row 1 (WS): sc 22(23, 25, 26, 28)(29, 31, 32) across, ch 2, turn

Row 2 (RS): FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [22](23, 25, 26, 28)(29, 31, 32)

Row 3 (WS): sc across, ch 2, turn [22](23, 25, 26, 28)(29, 31, 32)

Row 4-42(44, 46, 48, 50)(52, 52, 52): repeat Rows 2 & 3, ending with a row of FC

FRONT HEM:

We can begin straight away to the front hem. Picking up where you left off after your last row, ch 11.

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hk and each ch thereafter, sl st in next 3 st along the last row of the front panel, ch 1, turn [10]

Row 2: BLO hdc across, ch 1 turn [10]

Row 3+: Repeat Rows 1 & 2 across the bottom edge of the front panel.

Fasten off and weave in end.

Repeat Section 3 & Section 4 for other side:

You’ve now completed one side of the front of the cardigan. Now, we have to repeat sections 3 and 4 to create the second half of the other sleeve, and the other front panel and hem.

We need to take notice of the WS and the RS of the cardigan at this point. You’ll begin Row 1 of Section 3 on the WS of the cardigan. Beginning with the outer corner of the sleeve, count 68(71, 73, 76, 78)(81, 83, 84) stitches in towards the center and place a stitch marker. Rejoin your yarn in the stitch you just marked with the WS facing and repeat sections 3 and 4* above. PH 10 & 11

*Note that when you are completing section 3 and 4 for the second half of the cardigan, you will be able to crochet directly from section 3 into section 4. You will not have to count stitches from the outside in and rejoin yarn as you did for the first side. Your hook will already be positioned correctly to begin section 4.

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ASSEMBLE THE CARDIGAN:

The main body panel of your cardigan is now complete! Now, it’s time to assemble the cardigan, seam it closed and add the collar and sleeve cuffs.

Assemble and seam the cardigan as follows:

COLLAR:

NOTE:

  • The collar is made by crocheting rows of hdc through the back loop only, turning at the end of each row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn at the front bottom corner through the BLO of the corner stitch of the ribbed hem, and ch 1

Row 1 (RS): hdc up along the edge of the cardigan, across the neckline and back down to the opposite corner, placing one hdc at the end of each sc row and 2 hdc at the end of each dc/FC row, ch 1, turn.

Row 2-9*: BLO hdc across, ch 1, turn

*if you’d like the collar to be wider or more narrow, simply add or remove rows as desired.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

SLEEVE CUFFS:

NOTES:

  • The cuffs are made by creating ribbed rows just like the hem
  • We will do a decrease round in single crochet before we start the ribbing just to give it a bit of a tapered fit. In order to do this, you will treat the end of each sc row as a stitch and the end of each dc/FC row as 2 stitches. If you look closely, you’ll see an appropriate place at the edge of the dc that looks like 2 stitches (each with 2 loops). I show this in detail in the tutorial if that’s helpful!

At the cuff, find the sleeve seam and rejoin yarn there, with a sl st and ch 1

Row 1: sc dec around*, sl st to first st, ch 11

Row 2: hdc in 2nd ch from hk and each ch thereafter, sl st in next 3 st along Row 1, ch 1, turn [10]

Row 3: BLO hdc across, ch 1 turn [10]

Row 4+: repeat Rows 2 & 3 around

*put your wrist through after Row 1 and if you want it to be looser, go back and instead of sc dec all the way around, alternate with sc, and sc decrease around to widen the cuff.

Holding your first and last row of ribbing with right sides together, insert your hook through both loops of the row closest to you and the BLO of the row behind it and make a slip stitch. Repeat through the remaining 9 stitches to seam the cuff closed. Fasten off and weave in end. Repeat for second sleeve cuff.

POCKETS – make 2:

NOTE: The pockets are made using the method below, except the second pocket will have ONE ADJUSTMENT: in order for the angle to be facing the right direction, on the sc rows (odd rows), make your decrease over the FIRST 2 sc of the row instead of the last 2 sc of the row. If you fail to do this, and instead make them exactly the same, one pocket with have the WRONG SIDE facing out when you seam it on.

Begin by chaining 26.

Row 1 (WS): sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch thereafter, ch 2, turn [25]

Row 2 (RS): FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [25]

Row 3: sc across, ch 2, turn [25]

Row 4: FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn [25]

Row 5: sc across until the last 2 st, dec over the last 2 st [24]

Row 6: FC over the first 2 sc, FC across placing last leg in last sc, dc in same sc, ch 1, turn

Row 7-17: Repeat rows 5 & 6, ending with a row of sc

Snip, leaving a long tail for seaming on. Seam the pockets on to the cardigan with one row spacing the pocket from the hem and one rows spacing the pocket from the collar. You want the angle angling down and back. PH 17

BLOCKING:

Your cardigan may have a bias to the fabric which is an expected side-effect of this beautiful stitch. This will be corrected with blocking.

Wet block or steam block your cardigan to finish it off and really make the stitch texture pop!

My recommended wet blocking method:

  1. Soak in lukewarm or cold water for 15 minutes (non-rinse wool wash optional, but I like it!)
  2. Dump or drain water and gently squeeze excess water out of garment without stretching or wringing – just push against the sink/tub/whatever
  3. Lay gently in between towels and roll up
  4. Press on towels to extract the rest of the additional water – you can use your hands, arms or feet for this step!
  5. Unroll towel and gently transfer to prepared blocking mats (or towels, etc)
  6. Without stretching excessively, gently shape garment to size and pin in place
  7. Allow to fully dry in well ventilated area – depending on the size and thickness of the garment, this may take up to 2 days.

CLASSIC CARDIGAN FREE CROCHET PATTERN VIDEO TUTORIAL:

STYLING IDEAS FOR EVERY OCCASION

I want to provide you with styling ideas for every occasion, so you can take your personalized cardigan and effortlessly incorporate it into your everyday wardrobe. I’m a super practical person (anyone!?) and I love having staple pieces in my wardrobe that I can reach for all the time without having to overthink it. So, from casual looks to formal ensembles, I’ll show you how to make your cardigan a versatile and timeless piece that you’ll reach for time and time again.

When it comes to casual outfits, the classic cardigan free crochet pattern can be your go-to layering piece. Pair it with a basic white tee, your favorite pair of jeans, and some sneakers for a relaxed and comfortable look. You can also add a pop of color to your outfit by choosing a yarn color in a vibrant shade like mustard yellow or royal blue.

Heck, this is such a classic and versatile style, why not make more than 1 in other colors!?

For a more polished and put-together ensemble, consider wearing your cardigan over a tailored blouse or a button-down shirt. This combination exudes sophistication and is perfect for the office or any professional setting. To complete the look, add a pair of trousers or a pencil skirt and some heels. The cardigan will add a touch of elegance while still keeping you warm and stylish.

When it’s time to dress up for a special occasion, don’t overlook the power of THIS cardigan. Layer it over a flowy maxi dress or a sleek cocktail dress to add a layer of warmth and style. You can also accessorize with statement jewelry or a belt to accentuate your waist and add a finishing touch to your ensemble.

For those cozy nights at home or casual weekends, style your cardigan with a pair of leggings or joggers for the ultimate comfort. Add a soft scarf and some fluffy slippers to create a cozy and relaxed vibe. This combination is perfect for lounging around the house or running errands while still looking effortlessly chic.

As you can see, this cardi can be styled in countless ways to suit any occasion. Whether you’re going for a casual, professional, or formal look, your cardigan can be your versatile wardrobe staple. With a little creativity and personalization, you can make it truly your own. So go ahead and experiment with different outfits and don’t be afraid to mix and match to create your own unique style!

As you enjoy the creative process of self-expression through sustainable fashion, remember the words of Coco Chanel, who said, “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.” Embrace the style and elegance of the this classic cardigan, and let your creation become a reflection of your personal style and individuality.

I would love to see your completed cardis! Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

PIN THIS CLASSIC CARDIGAN FREE CROCHET PATTERN FOR LATER!

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