Cut Out Halter Top

Notes

This is a one size top, but do not fret,  I will tell you along the way how you can adjust the pattern in order to fit your body better.

In the materials I have listed approx. how much yarn I used to make this top for me, but you may end up using less or more yarn.  Also, you do not have to use this specific yarn, but I would recommend you choose a weight 4 yarn.

Materials

• 4.5 mm crochet hook
• Made with Love the cottony one yarn, approx. 1.5 skein/278 yards (I used the shade Silver Medal)
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
• Sew-on Snaps (2 sets) - These are the snaps that I used, I got them from Michael's
• Needle and thread

Stitches

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

scblo - single crochet in the back loop only

sc2tog - single crochet 2 stitches together

hdc - half double crochet

2hdc - 2 half double crochets into the same stitch (an increase)

hdc2tog - half double crochet 2 stitches together (a decrease)

Neckline

Row 1: Ch 5, sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and the remaining 3 chain spaces (4).

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, scblo in each and every space (4).

Repeat row 2 until you have completed row 46.  (Or until it fits comfortably around your neck, stretching it a little is okay, I would recommend not making it too loose).  Ch 1, pull up, and cut.

Body: Part 1

I have split this up into 4 separate sections to hopefully make it easier to understand.  Part 1 is the few rows after the neckline and before the opening.  Part 2 is the rows on either side of the opening.  Part 3 is the rows after the opening.  Part 4 is all of the finishing touches to turn it into a finished top.  Row counts start over at each part.

With 2 of your stitch markers mark mark off the middle 20 rows of your neck.  If you are using my numbers of a total of 46 rows for the neckline you would insert a stitch marker 13 rows in on each side.  After you complete the first row of the body you can remove the stitch markers if you want.

This is after the stitch markers are inserted
and your yarn is attached.

This is after Row 1

Row 1: Into the farthest right of your marked off rows attach your yarn, do a ch 1, sc into the same stitch.  Sc into the rest of the rows until you reach your next stitch marker.

Row 2: ch 2 and turn.  Put 2hdc into the first stitch, hdc into the next 16 stitches.  Put 2hdc into the final stitch.

Row 3 and 4: Repeat row 2.

If you are using my numbers and starting with 18 stitches after row 4 you should have a total of 24 stitches.  

Using your stitch markers insert them so that the middle 6 stitches are blocked off.  If you have my total of 26 stitches at the end of row 4 this would mean you mark off the 10th stitch on either side, leaving you with 10 stitches to work into.  Proceed to Body: Part 2.

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This next section will be worked in two separate parts before we join them together.

Body: Part 2

Manipulating this part of the pattern will change the size of the opening.  This is the opening size that I liked the most, but feel free to alter this to change the size or shape of the opening to fit your liking.

Row 1: Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc into the first stitch, hdc into every stitch until the last 2 stitches before your stitch marker.  hdc2tog in these last 2 stitches.  

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc into every stitch until the last stitch of the row, in the last stitch of the row insert 2hdc.

Row 3: Repeat row 1.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc into the first stitch, hdc into every stitch until you reach the end of the row.

Row 6: Ch 2 and turn, hdc into every stitch until you reach the final stitch.  In the last stitch of your row insert 2hdc.

Row 7: Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc into the first stitch, hdc into every stitch until you reach the last stitch of the row, insert 2hdc into this final stitch.

THE OTHER HALF OF THE OPENING

Row 1: Attach yarn to outside of your other stitch marker.  Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in each and every stitch until you reach the last stitch.  Insert 2hdc into your final stitch of the row.

These rows should have the same total stitches as the other half, so for rows 1-4, you should only be working with 10 stitches if you have the same numbers as me.

Row 2: Ch 2, 2hdc into the first stitch, hdc in each and every stitch until you have 2 stitches left in the row, hdc2tog.

Row 3: Repeat row 1.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Ch 2, insert a hdc into every stitch until you reach the last stitch of the row, into this final stitch insert 2hdc.

Row 6: Ch 2, 2hdc into the first stitch, insert a hdc into every stitch until you reach the end of the row.

Row 7: Ch 2, 2hdc into the first stitch, insert a hdc into every stitch until you reach teh final stitch of the row, into this last stitch insert 2hdc.

DO NOT CUT THE YARN HERE.  To finish this section off we are going to connect the two halves from Body: Part 2.

Row 8: Ch 2 and turn, insert 2hdc into the first stitch.  Hdc into each and every stitch until the final stitch immediately before the opening, insert 2hdc.  Ch 10*, make sure the chain is not twisted, then insert 2hdc into the first stitch on the second half.  Then, insert a hdc into every stitch until you reach the last stitch, insert 2hdc into the final stitch for the row.  Proceed to Body: Part 3.

*If you worked a different number of rows than I did you are going to have to do a bit of math to know the number that you have to chain to connect the 2 pieces.  First take the number of stitches at the top of the opening (6).  Then count the number of rows that you worked that included a decrease, (4), multiply this number by 2 (because this section was worked in 2 halves), (8).  Add this to the number of stitches at the top of the opening (8+6=14).  Then subract 4 (because of the increases before the chain, a total of 2 increases for row 7, and 2 more increases for row 8), (14-4=10).

After this most recent worked row where we connected the two halves of part 2 together, counting from the very first row of hdc we did I have a total of 11 rows of hdc stitches.

Body: Part 3

Row 1: Ch 2 and turn.  Into the first stitch insert 2hdc, put a hdc into each and every stitch until you reach your chain from the previous row.  Insert a hdc into each chain stitch, since I chained 22 I should have a total of 22 stitches for this chained section.  After this continue to put a hdc into each and every stitch until you get to the last stitch of the row, into the final stitch insert 2hdc.

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn.  Into the first stitch insert 2hdc, put a hdc into each and every stitch until you get to the last stitch of the row, into the final stitch insert 2hdc.

Rows 3-7: Repeat row 2.

This is another spot where you can either add more or less rows of increase, this will really depend on the size of your rib cage/how tight you want it to fit, remember that this WILL stretch, so I would err on the side of caution and make fewer rows of increase than you think you need.  After you complete your final row of increases insert a stitch marker into each side.

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Row 8-27: Ch 2 and turn.  Insert a hdc into each and every stitch until you reach the end of the row.

This will determine the length of your top, I wanted mine a bit longer, so I worked until row 27 of Body: Part 3, when I was done making rows for the length of my top I had a total of 43 rows.  Without cutting my yarn off I moved onto Body: Part 4.

Body: Part 4

Row 1: Ch 1, turn your full top 90 degrees, and work sc stitches up the side of the top towards the neckline.  Aim to put 3 sc stitches for every 2 rows of hdc.  When you get to the neckline, ss into the row that's next to where you started your sc as the very first row of your top.  Ch 1 pull up and cut.

When you insert a sc into the area where you have your stitch marker for when you stopped your increases , reinsert it into the top of that sc stitch.  Then, continue this for the rest of the neckline

Row 2: This is the row where we will make the holes to insert the ties at the back of the top.  You may need to change these numbers to make it work for your number of stitches.  Turn your work before starting and reattach yarn just below where your stitch marker is.  Ch 1 and insert a sc into the same stitch.  Then, sc, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 5, ch 2 sc 2.

Row 3: ch 1 and turn.  sc in each and every stitch until you reach the end of the row.  Insert sc 2 stitches into each of the ch 2 spaces from the previous row.  Ch 1 pull up and cut.

THE OTHER SIDE

Row 1: Attach yarn one row away from where you started your sc row at the very beginning of your top.  Start inserting a sc working your way down the top, inserting 3 sc for every 2 rows of hdc.  When you reach the stitch where your stitch marker is inserted, reinsert your stitch marker into that sc stitch.  Continue with your sc until you reach the bottom of your top.

Row 2: This is the row where we will make the holes to insert the ties at the back of the top.  Ch 1 and turn, sc 2, ch 2 sc 5, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 6, ch 2 sc 2.

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, insert a sc into each stitch and sc 2 into each of your ch 2 spaces from the previous row.

In the opening that we made during Body: Part 2, attach your yarn anywhere along an edge and line the opening with sc stitches.  In the opening when you are working perpendicular to your hdc rows insert about 3 sc stitches for every 2 rows of hdc.  When you are working parallel to your hdc rows insert 1 sc stitch for every hdc stitch.  In the 4 main corners of the opening I sc2tog.

Tuck in all of the ends and cut off the excess.

For the tie make a ch of about 300, before pulling the last ch tight and cut.  I do not tuck these ends in, just cut them close to the beginning and end of this ch.