DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 145-22
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-232
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Waist: 72-80-88-96-104-112 cm /
28½"-31½"-34½"-37 3/4"-41"-44"
Hem: 96-104-112-120-128-144 cm /
37 3/4"-41"-44"-47 1/4"-50½"-56½"
Full length: 47-50-52-53-55-57 cm /
18½"-19 3/4"-20½"-21"-21½"-22½"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Color no 604, ocean view: 150-150-150-150-200-200 g
Color no 910, sea mist: 150-150-150-150-200-200 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 20 dc = 10 cm / 4'' in width (10 rows in A.2 measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'', 1 square measures approx. 8 x 8 cm / 3 1/8'' x 3 1/8").
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5mm /US 7 - for tie.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 521 (15 mm): 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 for square and A.3 for crochet edge at the bottom of skirt.

LEAF:
1 leaf = ch 3, in same sc work 2 dc - but wait with last pull through on both sts, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, 1 sl st in next sc.

BOBBLE:
1 bobble = work 2 dc in same ch-space - but wait with last pull through on both sts, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

BOBBLE AT BEG OF ROUND:
ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch-space.

ROUNDS/ROWS WITH DC:
Replace 1st dc at beg of every round/row with ch 3, work 1 dc in every sc. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

ROUNDS/ROWS WITH SC:
Beg every round/row with sc with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc), work 1 sc in every dc. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.

PATTERN A.2 AND STRIPES:
1 repetition of A.2 = 2 rounds/rows. Work alternately 1 round/row with dc and 1 round/row with sc.
At the same time work stripes in A.2 as follows: * Work 1 repetition of A.2 (= 2 rounds/rows) in Fabel ocean view, 1 repetition (= 2 rounds/rows) with Fabel sea mist *, repeat from *-* upwards.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in next sc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next sc the same way, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. NOTE! When piece is worked back and forth do not dec at beg or end of row.
Dec 1 sc by skipping 1 sc.

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SQUARE:
Worked in the round. See diagram A.1 - Ch 4 with Fabel sea mist on hook size 3.5mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round READ ROUNDS/ROWS WITH SC.
ROUND 2: In every sc work 1 LEAF - read explanation above - but in last sc work as follows: ch 3, in same sc work 3 dc - but wait with last pull through on every st, pull thread through all 4 sts on hook = 8 leaves.
ROUND 3: ch 5, 1 dc in same leaf (= corner), * ch 3, 1 sc in next leaf, ch 3, in next leaf work 1 dc, 2 ch and 1 dc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, ch 3, 1 sc in last leaf, ch 3, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: ch 3, 1 dc in same space, ch 3, work 1 BOBBLE - read explanation above - in same space, * in each of the next 2 ch-spaces work 2 bobbles with 2 ch between, in next ch-space work 2 bobbles with 3 ch between (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, in each of the last 2 ch-spaces work 2 bobbles with 2 ch between, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: ch 1, in 1st ch-space work 1 sc, ch 3 and 1 sc (= corner), ** * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 3, in next ch-space work 1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc (= corner) **, repeat from **-** 2 more times, then repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 6: ch 1, in 1st ch-space work 2 sc, ch 3 and 2 sc (= corner), * work 3 sc in each of the next 3 ch-spaces, in next ch-space work 2 sc, ch 3 and 2 sc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work 3 sc in each of the last 3 ch-spaces, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Fasten off.
Work 12-13-14-15-16-18 squares in total with Fabel sea mist.

ASSEMBLY:
Work the squares tog along the side as follows: With Fabel sea mist and hook size 3.5mm/ E/4, place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, WS against WS, work 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on both squares, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc on both squares *, repeat from *-*, finish with ch 2, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on both squares, fasten off.
Work all squares tog the same way to form a ring.

SKIRT:
Worked first in the round and then back and forth after vent.
With Fabel ocean view and hook size 3.5mm/ E/4, work 1 round sc along one side of the ring as follows: ** 2 sc in 1st ch-space in corner on 1 square, * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (3 times in total), 2 sc in last ch-space in corner (= 16 sc per square) **, repeat from **-** on every square = 192-208-224-240-256-288 sc on round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.
Then work pattern A.2 and STRIPES - read explanation above = 6-6-6-6-8-6 times vertically. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.
On next round (with dc) dec 8 sts - READ DECREASE TIP - evenly on round. Repeat dec every 4 repetitions of A-2 vertically - i.e. always on a round with dc - 2-3-4-4-4-4 more times, then every other repetition vertically a total of 3-2-1-1-1-3 times - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 21-24-25-26-27-29 cm / 8 1/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-11½" (last round = round with sc), work piece back and forth. NOTE: Insert a marker at beg of 1st row with dc.
Then work every row with dc from RS and every row with sc from WS.
After all dec are done, 144-160-176-192-208-224 sts remain.
Continue with A.2 and stripes back and forth until piece measures approx. 39-42-43-45-47-49 cm / 15 1/4"-16½"-17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4", fasten off.

BAND:
With Fabel ocean view, work along the vent mid back as follows: Beg at the marker and work from RS 36-36-38-38-40-40 sc along the entire left edge of vent.
Work rows with sc back and forth until band measures approx. 4 cm / 1½'', fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE (at the top of skirt):
With Fabel ocean view, work from RS an edge in the waist as follows: Work 8 sc over the upper edge on band, then 1 sc in every sc at the top of skirt.
On next row work sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts - READ DECREASE TIP - to 151-169-181-199-217-229 sc (divisible by 6 + 1).
Work next row as follows: ch 1, * 1 sc in next sc, skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc in last sc, fasten off. Edge measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' vertically.

CROCHET EDGE (at the bottom of skirt):
Work with Fabel ocean view along the other side of ring with squares as follows: ** 3 sc in 1st ch-space in corner on 1 square, * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (3 times in total), 3 sc in last ch-space in corner (= 18 sc per square) **, repeat from **-** on every square = 216-234-252-270-288-324 sc in total, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.
Then work pattern A.3 as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 4 (replaces 1st dc and 1st ch), * skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1 * , repeat from *-* - see diagram A.3 -, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st ch-space, * 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 5 sc), ** ch 9, skip the next 5 dc, 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 4 more times (= sc-group with 9 sc) **, repeat from **-** the entire round - but when repeating the last time work 4 sc instead of 9 sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, * ch 3, 9 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 sc in each of the middle 5 sc on next sc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time work 1 sc in each of the last 2 sc on round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 4: ch 1, 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, ch 3, 1 sc in each of the middle 3 sc on next sc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time work 1 sc in last sc on round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st sc, * ch 3, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc with 1 ch between every st (= 9 dc and 8 ch-spaces), ch 3, 1 sc in the middle sc on next sc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time ch 3 after last dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 6: ch 5, skip 1st ch-space, * work 1 sc in each of the next 8 ch-spaces with 3 ch between every sc (= 8 sc and 7 ch-spaces), ch 5 *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time ch 2 after last sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch-space from beg of round.
ROUND 7: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st ch-space, * ch 2, work 1 sc in each of the next 7 ch-spaces with 5 ch between every sc (= 7 sc and 6 ch-spaces), ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time ch 2 after last sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
ROUND 8: ch 3, in every ch-space on round work 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch-space from beg of round.
ROUND 9: ch 3, 4 dc in same ch-space, * 1 sc in next ch-space, 5 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Fasten off.

TIE:
With 1 strand of each color and hook size 4.5mm/US 7, ch for approx. 130-135-140-145-150-155 cm / 51½"-53"-55"-57"-59"-61", turn and work 1 sl st in every ch, fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 4 buttons evenly on to band in vent, use the spaces between dc on the right edge for buttonholes. Pull the tie through dc on next to last round with dc at the top of skirt.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.03.2014
under CROCHET EDGE (at the bottom of skirt):
ROUND 8: ch 3, in every ch-space on round work 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch-space from beg of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = sc
symbols = dc
symbols = leaf: ch 3, in same sc work 2 dc - but wait with last pull through on both sts, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook, ch 3, 1 sl st in same sc, 1 sl st in next sc
symbols = bobble: Work 2 dc in same ch-space - but wait with last pull through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook
symbols = bobble at beg of round: ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch-space
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Dani wrote:

Hello all at Drops Design. Love your patterns; they are fantastic and I've had a lot of fun making some of them. Please, though, one small request: would it be possible for you to print the crochet pattern diagrams with each row/round in an alternating shade? i.e. row 1 in grey, row 2 in black, row 3 in grey etc. This would greatly help both myself and, I suspect, many others in following them. I am slightly dyslexic and struggle to follow them. All the best wishes. Dani

12.02.2021 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dani, thanks for your comment, for technical reasons it's not that possible, but what about highligting each row with a highlighter of different colours? This might help. Happy crocheting!

12.02.2021 - 16:32

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la partie Jupe, le point fantaisie A.2 en suivant les RAYURES est-il bien 1 rang = (1 tour de B puis 1 tour de ms) en Fabel vue sur la mer, puis la même chose en Fabel brume océane ? Si oui, comment je place chaque couleur de fil entre chaque rang ? Merci pour votre réponse.

21.12.2020 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, c'est bien ça, on crochète 2 tours/rangs d'une couleur puis 2 tours/rangs de l'autre. Laissez le fil de la couleur non utilisée sur l'envers de l'ouvrage et changez de couleur lors de la dernière maille coulée du tour précédent. Quand vous reprenez la couleur de la rayure précédente, ne tirez pas trop sur le fil pour ne pas resserrer l'ouvrage à ce niveau. Bon crochet!

21.12.2020 - 14:10

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonsoir. J'ai fait les carrés que j'ai assemblée en rond en les positionnant envers contre envers, comme indiqué. Je suis étonnée de voir que la couture d'assemblage des carrés est en relief. Du coup je ne sais pas de quel côté doit être ce raccord en relief : à l'intérieur ou à l'extérieur de la jupe, car je crains qu'ils s'accrochent et que cela abîme la jupe. Pouvez-vous me dire si ces raccords en relief sont à l'intérieur ou à l'extérieur de la jupe please? Merci

05.11.2020 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, l'assemblage des carrés se fait sur l'endroit (on pose les carrés envers contre envers). Si vous préférez une transition plate, vous pouvez les coudre si cela vous convient davantage. Bon crochet!

06.11.2020 - 08:26

country flag Elena wrote:

Hello i have started this lovely model, in round 3 of square, what means 1 dc in same leaf ? where should the hook be entered? in last stitch of petal? in the middle of petal? Many thanks

11.01.2019 - 22:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elena I would enter the hook into the middle of the petal. Happy Crafting!

12.01.2019 - 15:42

country flag Natasja wrote:

Als ik het rok gedeelte begin met de stokjes en vasten boven de granny's keer ik dan ook mijn werk telkens of blijf ik in de rondte werken naar boven toe?

19.10.2018 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Natasja,

Het staat niet duidelijk aangegeven in het patroon of je al dan niet het werk moet keren, maar als je de foto bekijkt, zie dat dit wel de bedoeling is, omdat de kleur verspringt midden achter. Het werk blijft ook beter in model als je steeds midden achter keert.

20.10.2018 - 16:53

country flag Aune wrote:

Hola, Tengo problemas al realizar la primera vuelta in la parte de ma falda (puntos vajos alrededor del aro). Como se ve en la figura A1, cada cuadrado tiene 13 puntos y dos cadenas. Las instrucciones dicenn de hacer 2 pb en la esquina + ( 1 pb en el siguiente pb + 1 pb en el siguiente pb + 2 pb en el siguiente pb) x tres veces + 2 pb en la esquina. Esto significa que solo se pone pb en 9 puntos y 2 esquinas. Qué pasa con los demas 4 puntos que tiene el cuadrado?

14.08.2018 - 03:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Aune. Ajustamos el lado de cada cuadrado para formar el borde inferior de la falda, es decir, trabajamos en las dos esquinas y en los 9 puntos bajos centrales del cuadrado. Como trabajamos 2 puntos bajos en el mismo punto en cada 3er punto bajo, tenemos al final 16 puntos bajos sobre cada cuadrado. Los otros 4 puntos del cuadrado se saltan para no hacer el borde de la falda demasiado ancho.

18.09.2018 - 10:50

Aune wrote:

Hello! I am a bit confused when starting the skirt part. Currently each side has 13 sc and 2 corner spaces so I do not get the indicated 16 sc per square. Instead I have 20 because I have to do the repeat *-* 4 times instead of 3. Where is that I am interpreting it wrongly? Do I have to skip the 2 sc that are already in the corners from previous round?

06.06.2018 - 22:27

country flag Anna wrote:

Hvor finner jeg diagram A2?

07.03.2018 - 12:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, A2 står beskrevet øverst i opskriften sammen med striberne: MØNSTER A.2 OG STRIPER: 1 rapp A.2 = 2 omg/rader. Hekle vekselvis 1 omg/rad med st og 1 omg/rad med fm. Det hekles samtidig striper i A.2 slik: * Hekle 1 rapp A.2 (= 2 omg/rad) i Fabel havutsikt, 1 rapp (= 2 omg/rad) med Fabel havbrus *, gjenta fra *-* oppover.

07.03.2018 - 16:22

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Verduidelijking op vorige vraag. toer 6 van vierkant = in 1e l-lus 2v, 3l en 2v (= hoek), * haak 3 v in elke van de volgende 3 l-lussen, haak in volgende l-lus 2v, 3l en 2v * Dat is dus een kant van het vierkant, na de eerste 3 l en tot de laatste 3l, De vasten daarvoor en daarna zijn om de hoek. Dan kom ik dus op 2v, 3x 3v en 2v = 13v per vierkant. Als ik dan de instructies van de rok opvolg heb ik teveel steken te vullen tot de hoek of ik moet de 2v in elke hoek overslaan

07.09.2014 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Liesbeth. Je leest het als volgt (en vergeet niet de vasten die je in de lossenlus maakt): 2 v in 1e l-lus in hoek op 1 vierkant, * 1 v in elke van de volgende 2 v, 2 v in de volgende v *, herhaal van *-* nog 2 keer (3 keer in totaal), 2 v in laatste l-lus in hoek (= 16 v per vierkant) of = 2 + 4 + 4 + 4 + 2 = 16.

09.09.2014 - 12:05

country flag Liesbeth Jacobs wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over het haken van de rok. in het patroon staat: haak 1 toer v langs de ring van vierkantjes...... (= 16 v per vierkant). als ik alle vasten tel die ik dan moet maken kom ik echter op 20. moet ik misschien de 2v in de hoeklus van de laatste toer van het vierkant niet meetellen, of moet ik niet meerderen zoals in het patroon geschreven staat?

25.08.2014 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Als ik de v optel, kom ik op 16 precies dus ik zie geen fout. Kunt u aangeven hoe u op 20 komt?

01.09.2014 - 17:11