DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 25-24
DROPS design: Pattern no z-092-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 46-48-50 (52-56) cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4" (20½"-22")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-58) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-22 3/4")

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (100-150) g color no 8105, light steel blue
100 g for all sizes in color no 100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C or D – or size needed to get 26 sc x 28 rows sc vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Beg every round with sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
NOTE: These ch do NOT replace first sc/dc on round.

STRIPE PATTERN:
ROUND 1 (= from WS with off white): Work 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 2 (= from RS with off white): Work 1 sc in every dc.
ROUND 3 (= from WS with off white): Work 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 4 (= from RS with off white): Work 1 sc in every dc.
ROUND 5 (= from WS with light steel blue): Work 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 6 (= from RS with light steel blue): Work 1 sc in every dc.
ROUND 7 (= from WS with light steel blue): Work 1 dc in every sc.
ROUND 8 (= from RS with light steel blue): Work 1 sc in every dc.
Repeat rounds 1 to 8.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last YO and pull through, work next dc but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.
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PANTS:
Worked in the round, top down, but turn piece after every round to work alternately from RS and WS.
Work 140-147-154 (161-168) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back.
Work first round as follows: ch 1, then * 1 sc in each of the first ch 6, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 120-126-132 (138-144) sc.
Continue with 1 sc in every sc for 2 more rounds. Then work 1 round with holes for tie as follows: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. On next round work 1 sc in every ch and in every dc. Work 1 more round with 1 sc in every sc.
Now work an elevation in the back as follows: Work 10 sc past marker mid back, turn and work 1 sc in each of the first 20 sc, turn, work 1 sc in each of the first 30 sc, continue like this by work 10 sc more on every turn until 80-80-100 (100-120) sc in total have been worked.
Turn and work back to mid back again.

Continue in the round over all sts with STRIPE PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When piece measures 15-17-18 (19-20) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7" (7½"-8") mid front, insert 1 marker mid front as well, there should be 60-63-66 (69-72) sts between markers mid front and mid back.
On next round inc 1 st on each side of marker front and back by working 2 sc/dc in same st.
Repeat inc every round 3-3-4 (4-4) more times (= 4-4-5 (5-5) inc in total) = 136-142-152 (158-164) sts in total on round. Then finish legs separately.

LEG:
Work sl sts over the first 5 sc on round, then work sc over the next 58-61-66 (69-72) sts and finish with sl sts over the next 5 sc. Cut the yarn. Work now in the round and continue with stripe pattern over these 58-61-66 (69-72) sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg.
When leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4'' (1 1/8''-1 1/8''), dec 1 sc on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-3 (3½-4½) cm / 3/4"-7/8"-1" (1 1/4"-1 3/4") 6-6-6 (5-5) more times (= 7-7-7 (6-6) dec in total) = 44-47-52 (57-60) sc.
Continue to work until leg measures 16-20-22 (27-32) cm / 6 1/4"-8"-8 3/4" (10½"-12½") (finish after a stripe with off white). Then work 8 rounds sc with light steel blue.
Fasten off.
Work the other leg the same way. The 10 sts mid front and
mid back = gusset.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog opening between legs edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

TIE:
Work with off white on hook size 3 mm as follows: * ch 2, 1 sc in first ch *, repeat from *-* until tie measures approx. 80-85-90 (95-100) cm / 31½"-33½"-35½" (37½"-39½"), fasten off.
Thread the tie in the round with eyelet holes at the top of pants – start and finish mid front.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.01.2017
LEG: Work sl sts over the first 5 sc on round, then work sc over the next 58-61-66 (69-72) sts and finish with 5 sl sts over the last 5 sc on round. Continue with stripe pattern in the round over these sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg...
Updated online: 05.05.2022
LEG: Work sl sts over the first 5 sc on round, then work sc over the next 58-61-66 (69-72) sts and finish with sl sts over the next 5 sc. Cut the yarn. Work now in the round and continue with stripe pattern over these 58-61-66 (69-72) sts...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bonjour. au moment de commencer la réhausse est ce que je la commence dans le même sens qu'à la fin de mon tour ou dois-je tourner mon ouvrage et faire 3 mailles en l'air avant de continuer et ensuite, à chaque fois que je tourne mon ouvrage, dois je à nouveau faire 3 mailles en l'air? . une fois la réhausse terminée, je dois obtenir le même nombre de maille qu'au début de mon ouvrage ? (pour moi 140 mailles) ...d'avance merci de m'éclairer ) ce sujet. Cordialement.

20.10.2022 - 08:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, tout à fait, votre nombre de mailles doit être le même après la réhausse, les rangs raccourcis permettent juste d'avoir plus de longueur dans le dos, mais par la suite, continuez comme avant - mais attention, vous devez avoir, en fonction de la taille choisie: 120-126-132 (138-144) ms - dans la 1ère taille, vous montez bien 140 ml, mais vous devez ensuite sauter des mailles en l'air pour qu'il ne reste que 120 ms à la fin du 1er tour (ainsi le début du pantalon n'est pas trop serré).. Bon crochet!

20.10.2022 - 10:11

country flag Julie Nemec wrote:

Hello, I’m confused about the top of the backside when you have us crochet 20 one way, then 30 the other, and so forth, this creates holes where the stitches have to jump a tow. Can you help me understand this or can I see the back of the pattern to see if I am doing this wrong?

12.10.2022 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nemec, if the holes are too large, you can work the first stitch after the previous turn crocheting a single crochet in the last stitch worked on previous short row but do not make last yarn over and pull through, crochet 1 single crochet in the next stitch and pull all loops on hook (just as for a decrease), that way you shouldn't have any holes anymore. Happy crocheting!

13.10.2022 - 09:08

country flag Iris wrote:

Ik snap de extra ronding op het achterpand niet, ik neem aan dat dit voor betere pasvorm voor de luierkont is? Ik heb de ronding gehaakt, ik denk dat je steeds naar een toer lager moet als je elke toer 10 steken extra moet haken? Ik heb na 80 steken de draad afgeknipt, en het midden opgezocht om vanaf dat punt de broek te gaan haken. Dat leek me logischer dan 40 steken naar het midden haken en vanaf daar verder te gaan met de broek, je blijft dan altijd die halve toer van 40 steken zien.

09.09.2022 - 23:22

country flag Monika wrote:

Hallo, danke für die schöne Anleitung. Ich habe mühsam mit dem Google-Übersetzer einige Fragen angeschaut wegen den 2 x 5 Kettmaschen beim Beinanfang. Die Antworten sind leider genauso unverständlich wie die Anleitung! Bitte verbessern sie diese! Man versteht nicht, ob man über die 5 Kettmaschen arbeiten soll oder nicht. Die Anleitung enthält zwar eine "Korrektur", aber in der steht genau das Gleiche wie in der Anleitung. Ich mache es jetzt irgendwie, aber schade... Danke!

04.04.2022 - 11:16

country flag Maj wrote:

Hej, hur fortsätter man med benen efter de 5 smygmaskorna i början o slutet på första varvet. Ska man sluta ihop varvet o virka benet runt o hur gör man med de 5 sm? Ska de ingå i benets maskor? Tacksam för en förklaring.

14.10.2021 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maj. I f.eks str. 1/3 mnd har du 136 masker og det skal nå hekles 2 bein. Da hekler du først 5 kjedemasker (smygmasker) + 58 fastmasker + 5 kjedemasker = 1 bein. Nå skal det hekles rundt og rundt til 1 bein over disse 58 fastmaskene, følg oppskriften til stripemønster og fellingene. Når 1. bein er ferdig hekles 2. bein på samme måte. Du får da en åpning midt under buksen, som sys sammen kant i kant. mvh DROPS Design

18.10.2021 - 09:46

country flag Alexandra wrote:

Skall varvet avslutas efter sm? 5sm-58fm-5sm skall det på sista sm vändas eller avslutas och sedan börja nästa V på första fm?

05.05.2021 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Alexandra. Når du hekler det første benet, hekler du 5 sm, deretter 58 fm og så 5 sm. Nå hekles det rundt og med STRIPEMØNSTER og husk å lese HEKLETIPS hvordan du starter neste omgang. mvh DROPS design

10.05.2021 - 09:27

country flag Keriman Koçer wrote:

Hi, I couldn't figure out how to make each leg. Should I make the last 5 slip stitches, then make the first round of leg? Thanks a lot.

11.04.2021 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Keriman Koçer, for the legs the first and last 5 stitches on the round for the legs (round starts at the inner mid-line of the legs) should be done with sl stitches, So start the round at the middle of the inner side of the leg, 5 slip stitch, do the rest of the leg until the last 5 stitch, and 5 slip stitch again. Happy Crafting!

11.04.2021 - 19:03

country flag Karin wrote:

Om benen: jag ska sätta en markör på ”insidan av benet” och minska 1 fm på varje sida av markören - men varje sida av det virkade blir ju till insida på benet? Så ska minskningarna göras på en (1) sida av benet eller på båda? Om de ska göras på endast en sida, ska det då minskas på benets sida bak eller fram?

22.05.2020 - 09:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, du minskar bara på insidan av benet, på varje sida av markören (= 2 minskningar på ett varv). Lycka till

29.05.2020 - 10:06

country flag Eli wrote:

Hola! Cuando ponéis en la parte del hilo que se necesita en este caso para el azul : 100-100-100(100-150)g a que os referís? Muchas gracias

07.05.2020 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Eli. Los patrones de DROPS están preparados para varias tallas. Cuando hay solo un número es igual para todas las tallas. Cuando hay varios números significa: (en tu caso): 100 g para la talla 1/3 meses, 100 g - 6/9 meses... etc

15.05.2020 - 11:55

country flag Ania wrote:

Dzień dobry, Mam pytanie do nogawek: czy przy pierwszym okrążeniu powinnam zamknąć okrążenie oczkiem zamykającym?

26.02.2020 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, tak zamknij okrążenie przerabiając 1 oczko zamykające. Pozdrawiamy!

27.02.2020 - 07:08