DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Yesterday Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with round yoke and lace pattern, worked top down in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 156-17
DROPS design: Pattern no me-070
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-98-104-114-132 cm / 31½"-35½"-38½"-41"-45"-52"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
600-700-750-850-900-1000 g color no 15, light grayish green

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 16 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or A.2 = width 2.5 cm / 7/8''.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every round/row with 3 ch. Replace first sc on every round/row with 1 ch.
Finish every dc round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish every sc round with 1 sl st in 1st ch on round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 dc in 1 dc, first on one side of all markers on row, next time on the other side of all markers on row, continue inc like this.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.
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BODY:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front. Work 111-116-121-131-136-146 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work next row as follows:
1 dc in 4th ch (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 88-92-96-104-108-116 dc - READ CROCHET INFO. Insert 19-20-21-23-24-26 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after 8th dc, then insert 18-19-20-22-23-25 markers 4 dc apart, after last marker there are 8 dc. Work back and forth with dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc at all markers as follows: Inc every other row 5-6-6-5-5-6 times, and every 4th row 2-2-2-3-3-3 times - READ INCREASE TIP = 221-252-264-288-300-350 dc. Work a row and inc 14-7-7-7-19-5 dc evenly (do not inc over the first and last 6 dc = band) = 235-259-271-295-319-355 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

On next round work as follows: 36-40-43-47-51-58 dc (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 52-56-56-60-64-68 dc from previous row (to be used for sleeve later), 59-67-73-81-89-103 dc (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 52-56-56-60-64-68 dc from previous row (to be used for sleeve later) and 36-40-43-47-51-58 dc (front piece). Insert a marker, now measure piece from here! Work 1 dc in every dc/ch AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts evenly – READ DECREASE TIP = 139-155-167-179-195-223 dc.

Continue to work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc (= band), A.1, A.2 30-34-37-40-44-51 repetitions in total in width, finish with A.3 and 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc. Continue pattern like this. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.4 vertically until finished measurements.

When piece measures 14-14-14-15-15-15 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-6"-6"-6" from marker, adjust so that next row is last row in A.4, inc 1 repetition of A.2 in 8th-9th-9th-10th-11th-13th repetition in ch-space as follows: Work ch 2, 1 sc in ch-space, ch 2, 1 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in same ch-space. Work 14-16-19-20-22-25 repetitions of A.2, in next repetition of A.2 inc the same way. Then continue as before = 32-36-39-42-46-53 repetitions of A.2 in width. Fasten off when piece measures 34-34-36-35-37-37 cm / 13½"-13½"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-14½"-14½" from marker, adjust to finish with next to last row in A.4, piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' in total.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Insert a marker, now measure piece from here! Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8 ch work in armhole on body, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, 1 dc in every dc over sleeve, then work 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 60-64-64-68-72-76 dc. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve.
Continue to work as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 11-11-11-13-13-15 dc AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc (= 10-10-10-12-12-14 dc), A.1, A.2 8-9-9-9-10-10 times in width, A.3, work 1 dc in each of the last 10-10-10-12-12-14 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each of the 20-20-20-24-24-28 dc mid under sleeve and A.1-A.3 over sleeve. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.4 vertically until finished measurements. Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 dc on each side of marker - Remember DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3½-2½-2½-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 9-9-9-11-11-13 more times. Now work only A.1-A.3 over sleeve. Fasten off when sleeve measures 43½-42½-42½-39½-40-38 cm / 17"-16 3/4"-16 3/4"-15½"-15 3/4"-15", adjust to finish with next to last round in A.4 – NOTE – shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and shoulders.
Work the other the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work neck edge in ch-row.
Work on hook size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Merino Extra Fine as follows: 1 sc in 1st st, * ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, the top button approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from neck edge, the bottom button in transition between dc and pattern. Button between 2 dc on right front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around st
symbols = work 3 dc into 1 dc in same st as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), work 1 dc the same way, then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
symbols = 1st row/round is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Esther Huhn wrote:

The Yesterday Cardigan pattern is written for sizes S-M-L-XL etc. However, I'e like to know what chest and arm measurements these sizes correspond with. The pattern gives stitch counts for each size but not actual measurements in cm of inches. Can you help me?

24.07.2023 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Esther, You will find a measurements chart, with all the measurements for each size, at the bottom of the page. Happy knitting!

25.07.2023 - 06:44

country flag Michele wrote:

Hi I am having trouble with the following instructions: "When piece measures 14-14-14-15-15-15 cm from marker, adjust so that next row is last row in A.4, inc 1 repetition of A.2 in 8th-9th-9th-10th-11th-13th repetition in ch-space as follows: ....Work 14-16-19-20-22-25 repetitions of A.2" I thought I was supposed to be working A4 until the end? Am I supposed to work a row of A2 at this point? Many thanks

11.05.2023 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, A.4 shows the pattern in height, while in width you read diagrams as follows: start with A.1, repeat A.2 and end with A.3 (seen from RS; from WS you will work: A.3, repeat A.2 and end with A.1). This lesson could help you understanding how to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

11.05.2023 - 16:35

country flag Dawn wrote:

I am really enjoying this pattern! I need help with the increase within the A2 repetitions. The pattern reads, "inc 1 repetition of A.2 in 9th repetition in ch-space as follows: Work ch 2, 1 sc in ch-space, ch 2, 1dc in same ch-space,ch 2, 1 sc in same ch-space." I have just finished the dc of the 8th rep. Can you please tell me each step of the entire 9th repetition-plus inc, before I continue with the 1st ch 2 of 10th rep? and is this done in the single ch-sp of A2 (not the 3 ch-sp) Thnx!

08.04.2023 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dawn, work as follows in the 9th repeat: ch 2, in the chain-3 space of the previous row work (1 dc in ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr in same ch-space, ch 2, 1 dc in same ch-space), 1 tr in the next chain-1 space of the previous row. Happy crochetting!

08.04.2023 - 23:09

country flag Dawn Roehrs wrote:

Concerning instructions of the BODY : ...1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 88-92-96-104-108-116 dc I am wondering about the "skip ch 1" . It is not clear to me if I should ch 1 and skip the chain st below or if I just skip the ch st below and dc in the next 4 ch sts. I find it confusing that it first uses "ch 2" and "ch 1" language and then switches to "4 ch". (switching the order of abbr.)

20.01.2023 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roehrs, on the very first row you should just skip 1 chain from the foundation chain and crochet 1 dc in each of the next 4 chains from the foundation chain; most of the time the chains are always tighten on the foundation chain as when crocheting the dc afterwards, reason why we crochet here more chains than you need stitches on first row. Happy crocheting!

20.01.2023 - 16:41

country flag Christine wrote:

Hello, I am going to attempt yesterday cardigan and have briefly looked at the diagram please would you tell me what (tr around st) means? and where can I find the meaning of the black dot? I have been doing crochet for a long time but have never followed a pattern. thank you, Christine

03.01.2023 - 17:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Christine! A symbol with black dot is "tr in st" meaning you have to make treble crochet in stitch. Please look at step-by-step tutorials, videos and a very handy technical dictionary below the pattern. How to read crochet diagrams . Hope it helps!

03.01.2023 - 20:37

country flag Dawn Roehrs wrote:

Starting with the BODY of the piece (size M), I am asking for clarity on the following instructions: " ... AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc at all markers as follows: Inc every other row 5-6-6-5-5-6 times, and every 4th row 2-2-2-3-3-3 times." I do not understand what 6 and 2 "times" means. Is this the amount of rows or the amount of markers I inc at? Will I inc at each of the 19 markers- every other row? Then how does that work with the 4th row? Thank you.

01.01.2023 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Dawn, You increase at all the markers every other row 6 times (you have worked 12 rows with 6 rows of increases), then every 4th row 2 times (you have worked 8 rows with 2 rows of increases). Hope this helps. Happy New Year!

02.01.2023 - 06:50

country flag LES GRANDS CHAMPS wrote:

Bonjour, je reviens vers vous concernant le modele Drops 156-17 et je ne comprends pas la partie concernant les augmentations. Quel motif faut il augmenter ? A quoi correspond A2 ? Merci beaucoup.

02.10.2022 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Les Grands Champs, vous devez augmenter pour l'empiècement 1 bride à chaque marqueur (la 1ère fois que vous augmentez, crochetez 2 brides avant les marqueurs, la fois suivante, crochetez 2 brides après les marqueurs) vous allez ainsi augmenter 19-20-21-23-24-26 brides à chaque rang d'augmentations, et augmenter ainsi tous les 2 rangs puis tous les 4 rangs. A.1 correspond au début du point fantaisie, vous répétez ensuite A.2 et vous terminez le point fantaisie par A.3. Bon crochet!

03.10.2022 - 10:03

country flag Rits wrote:

Kan dere legge ut en video av hvordan man hekler selve mønsteret fra diagrammer?

15.07.2022 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Her ser du :) Det er lidt andre symboler, men teknikken er den samme: Vifter ifølge diagram

02.08.2022 - 14:31

country flag CATTANEO wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le diagrammes, pourriez vous me donner plus d'explications ?

07.05.2022 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cattaneo, chaque symbole représente 1 maille ou 1 groupe de mailles, vous lisez les diagrammes sur l'endroit ainsi: commencez par A.1, repétez A.2 et terminez par A.3; sur l'envers, commencez par A.3, répétez A.2 (en le lisant de gauche à droite) et terminez par A.1. Lorsque vous avez crocheté le diagramme en hauteur, répétez A.4 = les 4 derniers rangs. Bon crochet!

09.05.2022 - 08:30

country flag Cattaneo wrote:

Je vous remercie pour tous ces beaux modèles avec les explications a la clé !

06.05.2022 - 20:15