DROPS 127-45
DROPS design: Pattern no LN-022
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Size: S - M - L
Head circumference:
approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm / 21"/22" - 22"/22½" - 22½/23½

Materials: DROPS LIN from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g color no 103, linen

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C
– or size needed to get 22 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON NO 501: 1 piece

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every round with sc with ch 1 and finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 1 sc but wait with last YO and last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last YO and pull through pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 sc dec.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, start of round is marked with arrow in diagram - NOTE: In M.1 replace first sc on round with sc with ch 1 and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Replace first dc at beg of every round with dc with ch 3 and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Replace first tr at beg of every round with tr with ch 4 and finish every round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down.
Ch 5 on hook size 3 mm / C with 1 thread Lin and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 sc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 sc.
Continue inc like this (= inc 6 sc on every round) until there are 96-102-108 sc on the round (i.e. so that for every round 1 sc more is worked between every 1 sc inc). Continue working 1 sc in every st until piece measures 10-11-12 cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" from mid down - while AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 3-6-9 sc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 99-108-117. Now work PATTERN - see explanation above. After M.1 there are still 99-108-117 sc on the round and the piece measures approx. 16-17-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" from mid and down. Cut and fasten the thread, beg of round = mid back. Insert a marker mid front (in sizes S + L insert marker in the middle st and in size M insert marker between the middle 2 sts).

BRIM:
Beg from RS, 13-15-16 sts before marker mid front and work on hook size 3 mm / C with 2 threads Lin as follows: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* 9-10-11 times = 36-40-44 sc. Turn piece and work back with 1 sc in every sc. Continue to work sc back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 sc in each side on every other row a total of 3 times - READ DECREASE TIP = 30-34-38 sc. Cut and fasten the threads, brim measures approx. 3 cm / 1 1/8''.

EDGE:
Work an edge on hook size 3 mm / C with 2 threads Lin as follows: 1 sc at beg of round (= mid back), * ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* around the entire edge of cap and brim, and finish 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.

BUTTON COVER:
Work a cover for 1 button on hook size 3 mm / C with 1 thread Lin as follows:
ROUND 1: Ch 2, then work 16 dc in the first of the 2 ch worked, finish with 1 sl st at top of first dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in every dc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round = 16 sc.
ROUND 3: Ch 3 (= 1 dc), continue to work 1 dc in every other sc from previous round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc.
Place button inside the cover, sew around the edge and tighten tog.
Sew the button mid on top of cap.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 1
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = ch 4, 1 sl st in first ch (1 picot)
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = begin here
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Lene wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke diagrammet M1. Kan I forklare en linje med ord, tak Mvh Lene

03.02.2021 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, den første række er fastmasker i hver fastmaske. Anden række er 2 fastmasker, 1 picot, 3 fastmasker, 1 picot, 3 fastmasker osv. Tredje række er 1 stangmaske, 2 luftmasker, 1 stangmaske 2 luftmasker osv. God fornøjelse!

04.02.2021 - 15:39

country flag Silvie Bulten wrote:

Ik begrijp niets van de toer met picot steken. Vooral omdat je het eerste stokje ook nog moet vervangen door lossen. Jullie hebben het al uitgelaten in Engels en Duits en hoewel ik die talen goed spreek begrijp ik de haak termen in die talen niet. Graag in het Nederlands a.u.b.

05.09.2020 - 10:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Silvie,

Bij de picot steken haak je 4 lossen en dan haak je 1 halve vaste in de eerst gehaakte losse van die 4 lossen. (Bij de picotsteek geldt het vervangen door lossen niet. )

11.09.2020 - 13:19

country flag Marie-noelle Eyssartier wrote:

Bonjour combien font les 17 rangs en centimètre pour la taille L Dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension

24.07.2019 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Noelle! Pour la laine du groupe B, avec le crochet no 3, 17 rangs en mailles serees font environ 8,5-9 cm en hauteur. Bon crochet!

24.07.2019 - 18:13

country flag Eyssartier wrote:

Bonjour combien il y a t'il de rang entre le centre et le premier rang du point fantaisie pour la taille L dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension Mme Eyssartier

22.07.2019 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Eyssartier! Vous obtiendrez 108 ms au 17-eme tour. Ensuite vous continuez pour que la longueur du centre au bord ait 12 cm. Je ne sais pas exactement combien de tours vous devez crocheter. Suivez les explications et les mesures donnees la-bas. Bon travail!

22.07.2019 - 20:32

country flag Tamara wrote:

I do not understand the picot rows on this pattern. Does anyone have an idea as to what I'm suppose to do after the first double crochet? Am I I suppose to chain 1 or what?? I'm desperate, please help me.

26.05.2019 - 05:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tamara, for the picot rows, you shold crochet *2 dc, then 4 chain stitch, 1 slip stitch into the first chain stitch, and 3 dc.* Repeat what is between *-*. I hope this helps. Happy Crafting!

27.05.2019 - 02:21

country flag Eyssartier wrote:

Bonjour J'aime beaucoup ce modèle est ce que je peux le faire avec drop Paris car il me reste 2 pelotes de blanc et deux de beige Dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension

28.06.2018 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Eyssartier, ce chapeau se crochète en DROPS Lin, un fil du groupe B - DROPS Paris appartient au groupe C et est donc plus épaisse, vous n'aurez probablement pas le bon échantillon et donc pas le bon résultat - essayez notre convertisseur pour voir les alternatives. Bon crochet!

28.06.2018 - 17:57

country flag Conny Holm wrote:

Ups igen! Har opdaget (tror jeg) at mønsteret er deleligt med 3, hvilket jo forklarer "rapportens" maskeantal. VH CH

21.08.2015 - 09:44

country flag Conny Holm wrote:

Ups! Fik vist diagrammet i den gale hals. Har forstørret fotoet og kan se, at picot'erne skal hækles i den 2. fm-række. Undrer mig dog stadig over maskeantallet - lige/ulige til samme mønster? VH CH

20.08.2015 - 08:08

country flag Conny Holm wrote:

Har prøvet at skrive nogle få spørgsmål, men bliver hægtet af. Derfor denne kommentar: Det er en stor fejl, at man ikke kan forstå diagrammet og der ikke er en skriftlig vejledning hertil. Hvem H… har læst korrektur?

19.08.2015 - 22:37

country flag Andrea Ogsaint wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, wie/wo man den Picot zwischen die beiden festen Maschen der Vorreihe anbringen soll, damit das Muster aussieht, wie auf dem Foto. Da ich die Wolle online gekauft habe, kann ich auch nicht im Laden nachfragen. Danke!

19.07.2015 - 23:22

DROPS Design answered:

Sie häkeln die 1. R mit festen M und Picots wie folgt: 2 fM, dann 4 Lm und 1 Kett-M in die 1. dieser Luft-M (das ist der Picot), dann kommen 3 fM, die Sie jeweils in die nächsten 3 fM häkeln. Es sind also immer 3 fM zwischen den Picots. In der R danach häkeln Sie immer 1 Stb und 2 Lm und überspringen mit den 2 Lm 2 fM und den dazwischenliegenden Picot, damit ergibt sich dann das Muster wie auf dem Foto.

28.07.2015 - 16:12