DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lovely Rose

Crochet cardigan with raglan, short sleeves and fan edges, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Merino or DROPS Belle. Size children 1 - 10 years.

DROPS Children 26-1
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-002-bn
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 13, coral

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 11, old pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 10 rows vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTON NO 616, flower pink: 4 pieces in all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace 1st dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 67-71-75-79-83-83 loose ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Merino or Belle. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 66-70-74-78-82-82 sc on row. Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid front – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers): Skip 15-16-17-18-19-19 sc (= right front piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 6 sc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 20-22-24-26-28-28 sc (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 6 sc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next sc (there are now 15-16-17-18-19-19 sc on left front piece after last marker).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in every sc but in every sc with marker work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc = 78-82-86-90-94-94 dc on row (= 12 dc inc on row).

Then inc for raglan: Continue with dc, and work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 dc inc on row). Repeat inc on every row 4-5-5-6-6-7 more times (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total) = 158-178-182-202-206-222 dc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work next row as follows from RS:

Work 1 dc in each of the first 26-29-30-33-34-36 dc (= right front piece), skip the next 32-36-36-40-40-44 dc (= sleeve), work 8 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 42-48-50-56-58-62 dc (= back piece), skip the next 32-36-36-40-40-44 dc (= sleeve), work 8 ch and work 1 dc in each of the last 26-29-30-33-34-36 dc (= left front piece). Sleeve caps are now done.

BODY:
Work 1 row with dc (work 1 dc in every dc from previous row and 1 dc in every ch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 110-122-126-138-142-150 sts on row. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 3-4-4-4-5-5 cm / 1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2", on last row inc 4-2-3-1-2-4 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 114-124-129-139-144-154 dc. Now work fan pattern as follows:

ROW 1: 1 sc in each of the first 5 dc (= band), *4 ch, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-*, finish with ch 4, skip 4 sc and 1 sc in each of the last 5 dc (= band) = 21-23-24-26-27-29 ch-spaces.
ROW 2: 1 dc in each of the first 5 sc, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in every ch-space, 1 dc in each of the last 5 sc.
Repeat 2nd row until piece measures 13-15-17-18-20-21 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4"-7"-8"-8 1/4".

WORK NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS: 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, 4 dc + 2 ch + 4 dc in every ch-space, 1 dc in each of the last 5 dc.
Repeat this row until piece measures 21-23-26-29-33-36 cm / 8 1/4"-9"-10 1/4"-11½"-13"-14 1/4".

WORK NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS: 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in every ch-space, 1 dc in each of the last 5 dc. Work this rows a time, fasten off.

ADJUSTING NECKLINE:
To get a better fit work to adjust the neckline. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line.
Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 as follows: Beg mid front and work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remain before st with marker, work 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remain before next st with marker, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remain before st with marker, work 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remain before next st with marker, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, work 1 sc in every sc until mid front. Turn piece and work 1 sc in every sc back to mid front but at every marker work 3 sc tog, i.e. work 1 sc in hdc but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in next hdc but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 8 sc dec).

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row, fasten off.

FAN EDGE AROUND SLEEVE CAPS:
Work as follows: Work 1 sc in each of the 8 sts mid under sleeve, then work fan edge around the sleeve opening as follows: * Skip 2 dc, in next st work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (= approx. 9-9-10-10-11 fans along sleeve cap). Fasten off.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve cap.

Fasten 4 buttons evenly on the left piece. The buttons will be closed trough 2 dc on the right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 26-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Pernille Yeoman wrote:

Næste række efter raglan står der at maskerne til ærmerne skal springes over. Hvordan gør jeg det? Skal jeg bryde tråden og hækle videre eller kan jeg gøre det på en anden måde?

25.03.2024 - 22:28

country flag Pernille Rosendal Nielsen wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl, hvor jeg skal måle fra, når der står "fortsæt til arbejdet måler 36 cm."

28.02.2024 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pernille. Under RYG & FORSTK står det HERFRA MÅLES ARB VIDERE! Mål fra dette punktet. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 11:59

country flag Malgorzata wrote:

Witam, ...... i przer. kolejny rząd następująco na prawej stronie robótki, irytuje mnie ta prawa strona robótki, czyli, jeśli nabierzemy odp. ilość oczek łańcuszka i mamy przerobić następny rząd oś , to jest to lewa strona , następny rząd oł, to jest prawa strona, czy tak, dziękuję i pozdrawiam Małgorzata

14.04.2022 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, dokładnie. Rząd nabierania oczek to jest prawa strona, kolejny rząd oczek ścisłych to strona lewa, itd. Radzę na prawej stronie umieścić sobie marker lub nitkę, wtedy nie trzeba się zastanawiać :) Pozdrawiamy!

15.04.2022 - 09:47

country flag Agata wrote:

Chciałabym zrobić ten sweterek włoczką Drops Baby Merino w rozmiarze 86, ile oczek powinien mieć pierwszy łańcuszek?

26.01.2022 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agato, co do początku: zrób próbkę, tak dobierz szydełko, aby próbka była taka jak we wzorze. Wtedy możesz wykonywać wzór dla twojego rozmiaru i nabierzesz tyle oczek ile jest we wzorze. Jeśli nie uda się dopasować próbki (bo np. będzie zbyt luźna/wiotka przy użyciu grubszego szydełka i efekt końcowy nie będzie Ci odpowiadał) skontaktuj się ze sklepem, w którym kupiłaś włóczkę, a otrzymasz niezbędną pomoc. Pozdrawiamy!

26.01.2022 - 14:20

country flag Elena wrote:

Buongiorno, si può fare questo modello con il filato Safran? Grazie

09.05.2021 - 08:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, questo modello è lavorato con un filato del gruppo B, Safran appartiene al gruppo A: può provare ad utilizzare Muskat o Cotton Light. Buon lavoro!

09.05.2021 - 17:19

country flag Margaretha wrote:

Tror att många precid som jag räknar alla maskor på varvet, alltså inklusive de 8 luftmaskorna ... Jag kunde inte förstå varför maskantalet inte stämde tills jag såg att det står antal STOLPAR på varvet INTE maskor...

07.03.2021 - 11:08

country flag Hanne Nash wrote:

Hej Jeg kan ikke få maske antal til at passe med opdeling til for/bag og ærmer str 3/4 Jeg ender med 31 (17+2+12)på for, i har 30 skal man springe over den sidste? Ærmer 6+4+24=34, i har 36?

04.03.2021 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, Ja det er bare at justere så du har en mindre på forstykket, så antallet stemmer inden du fortsætter :)

05.03.2021 - 08:50

country flag Hanne Nash wrote:

Hej😁 Tak for alle jeres fantastiske opskrifter🤩 Jeg kan ikke få antal masker til at passe efter udtagninger str 3/4 Starter med 17 masker på forstykke + 2 efter første udt 19 + 2x6=12 +19=31 i har 30 Skal man springe over den sidste m inden luftm bue når man deler op? Kan heller ikke få antal ærmemasker rigtig 6+4=10 første udt 6x4=24+10=34 I har 36 st???

04.03.2021 - 18:54

country flag Jutta wrote:

1 Stb in jede fM, jedoch in jede markierte fM für die Raglanlinie 2 Stäbchen (Stb) + 2 Lm + 2 Stb häkeln (= 12 Stb zugenommen = 78-82-86-90-94-94 Stb in der R). Sollten dies bei 4x zunehmen nicht 16 Stb sein, also 4 Maschen mehr als bei Ihnen angegeben?

20.02.2021 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, nur die Stäbchen sind hier gezählt: 4 Stb werden bei jeder Markierte fM gehäkelt = 3 Stb bei jeder der 4 Markierung zugenommen = 12 Stb zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

22.02.2021 - 10:06

country flag Francesca wrote:

Buongiorno, sto eseguendo questo modello e al termine del raglan non mi trovo con il numero indicato dalle spiegazioni. Se ho 19 maglie per metà davanti, dopo 8 righe a punto alto con due aumenti per riga per un tot. di 16 maglie avrò 35 maglie e non 34. Per le maniche stesso discorso: comincio con 6 maglie + 4x8= 32 aumenti, mi darà un risultato di 38 maglie. Questo per la taglia 7/8 anni. Cosa sbaglio rispetto alle indicazioni?

16.01.2021 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, con il 1° aumento avrà 20 maglie alte, poi ci sono altri 7 aumenti di 2 maglie alte ognuno, per cui avrà 34 maglie in totale per il davanti destro. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 - 21:20