DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Swing

Crochet DROPS skirt with lace pattern and double crochet, worked in each direction from crochet squares in ”Fabel”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 164-17
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-313
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 color no 103, gray blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). 1 crochet square = 12 x 12 cm / 4¾''.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Round (blue), NO 621: 5 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc a dc row/round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round.
On every row/round with sc beg with 1 ch (ch does not replace first sc). Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch on round.
Replace first hdc on a row with hdc with 2 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch on round.
Replace first tr on a round with tr with 4 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch on round.
Replace first dtr on a round with dtr with 5 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 5th ch on round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.5.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 dc.

DC-GROUP WITH 2 dc:
Work 1 dc in first/next ch/ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc in same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

DC-GROUP WITH 4 TR:
* Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times in same dc, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

LOOP:
Work 1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc.
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SKIRT:
First work 8-9-10-11-12-13 crochet squares that are sewn tog into a ring. Then work in each direction from this ring.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Work 5 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Fabel and form a ring with 1 sl st. Then work in the round as follows - see diagram A.1:
ROUND 1: Work 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch) – READ CROCHET INFO! Work * 1 dc around ring, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 14 more times on round = 16 dc around ring.
ROUND 2: Work sl sts until first ch. * Work dc-GROUP WITH 2 dc - see explanation above - around first/next ch, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 15 more times = 16 ch-spaces and 16 dc-groups with 2 dc.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until first ch-space. * Work dc-group with 2 dc around first/next ch-space, work ch 3, work dc-group with 2 dc around same ch-space *, repeat from *-* 15 more times = 16 ch-spaces and 32 dc-groups with 2 dc.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until first ch-space. * Work 2 sc around first/next ch-space, ch 1, 2 sc around same ch-space *, repeat from *-* 15 more times.
ROUND 5: Work sl sts until first ch. * Work 1 sc around first/next ch, 9 ch, work 1 sc around next ch, work ch 6, 1 sc around next ch, ch 6, 1 sc around next ch, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times on round.
ROUND 6: Work 1 sl st in the first sc, and 1 sl st in next ch. * Work (2 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc) around ch-space – Remember CROCHET INFO, then work ch 5, work 1 dc around next ch-space, ch 5, work 1 dc around next ch-space, ch 5, work 1 dc around next ch-space, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times on round, but finish with 1 sl st in first hdc on round.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sl st in every st until the 3 ch in first ch-space. Work ch 1, * 3 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc around same ch-space, ch 1, then work 5 dc around each of the next 4 ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times on round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round. Crochet square measures 12 x 12 cm / 4¾''. Work 7-8-9-10-11-12 crochet squares more the same way = 8-9-10-11-12-13 crochet squares in total. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew crochet squares tog to form a long strip of 1 x 8-9-10-11-12-13 crochet squares. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Sew the first and last square tog to form a ring.

FROM CROCHET SQUARES AND UP TOWARDS WAIST:
NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc along every crochet square (= 26 dc over every crochet square) = 208-234-260-286-312-338 dc.
ROUND 2: * Work 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc from previous round *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 dc in every dc, 1 dc around every ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 4: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-10-12-14-16-10 dc evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 200-224-248-272-296-328 dc.
ROUNDS 5-6: Then work A.2 (= 8 dc) 25-28-31-34-37-41 times on round. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, continue with 1 dc in every dc. When 2 rounds with dc have been worked, insert 6 markers in piece on next round as follows: Insert a marker after 17-19-21-23-25-26 dc, then insert 5 markers 33-37-41-45-49-55 dc apart. 18-20-22-24-26-27 dc remain on round after last marker. On next round, dec 1 dc on the right side of all markers. Repeat dec alternately on right and left side of every marker every 3rd round 4-3-3-3-1-1 more times and every other round/row 2-4-5-5-8-9 times = 158-176-194-218-236-262 dc, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22-22-23-23-24-24 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9½"-9½", work 12 rows back and forth from beg of round, to form a vent for opening in the side. Piece measures approx. 32-32-33-33-34-34 cm / 12½"-12½"-13"-13"-13½"-13½". Work a row with sc. Fasten off.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 sc around first dc, * work 2 sc around next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times and finish with 2 sc around last dc at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 sc in every sc and 3 sc in every ch-space.

BUTTON FOLDING EDGE:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with sc back and forth (on 1st row work 2 sc in every dc = 24 sc), cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.

FROM CROCHET SQUARES AND DOWN THE SKIRT:
Now work in opposite direction from crochet squares.
INSERT A MARKER HERE. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1 dc in every dc (= 26 dc over every square) AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-1-0-4-3-2 dc evenly = 210-235-260-290-315-340 dc.
Then work A.3 (= 5 dc) 42-47-52-58-63-68 times on round. NOTE: Finish every round with 1 sl st in each of the tr until first ch-space on round. When 2nd round has been worked, repeat 2nd round until piece measures approx. 10-12-13-15-16-18 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-5"-6"-6 1/4"-7", then work 3rd round in A.3 until piece measures approx. 18-20-21-23-24-26 cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4"-9"-9½"-10 1/4". Work 4th and 5th round in A.3. There are now 294-329-364-406-441-476 dc on round. Now continue as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 0-1-0-0-1-0 dc, then work * 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: * Work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 42-28-14-14-0-7 dc evenly = 336-357-378-420-441-483 dc. Now work A.4 (= 7 dc) 48-51-54-60-63-69 times on round. NOTE: Finish every round with 1 sl st in every dtr until first ch on round.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Now work an edge as follows - see diagram A.5:
ROUND 1: Work 1 sl st in each of the 4 dtr until first/next ch-space. Then work as follows from arrow in diagram: ch 1, * 1 sc around first/next ch-space, ch 5, skip 4 dtr, 1 tr around space between the next 2 dtr, ch 5, skip the next 4 dtr *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
NOTE: From 2nd-7th round beg every round with 1 sl st in each of the first 2 ch in first ch-space from previous round. Finish every round with 1 sl st in first sc on row.
ROUND 2: ch 1, 1 sc around ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* around the entire round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, * 1 sc around ch-space, (5 ch + 1 sc) around each of the next 4 ch-spaces, 9 tr around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 4: ch 1, * 1 sc around ch-space, (5 ch + 1 sc) around each of the next 3 ch-spaces, work (1 dc + 1 ch) in each of the next 8 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 5: ch 1, 1 sc around ch-space, (5 ch + 1 sc) around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, work (1 dc + 2 ch) in each of the next 8 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 6: ch 1, * 1 sc around ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space. Work dc-GROUP WITH 4 TR - see explanation above + 2 ch in each of the next 8 dc, work dc-group with 4 tr in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 7: ch 1, * work 1 LOOP - see explanation above, ch 6, skip first dc-group with 4 tr, (1 sc + 4 ch) around each of the next ch 7, 1 sc around next ch, ch 6, skip next dc-group with 4 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, and finish with 1 sl st in the first sc in first loop on round. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Work 5 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc around ch/ch-space
symbols = beg round with ch 3, and finish round 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space/between dtr-group
symbols = 1 dc in dc
symbols = dc-group with 2 dc: Work 1 dc in next ch/ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc in same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
symbols = 1 tr in dc/around ch-space/around ch
symbols = 1 dtr in dc/around ch-space
symbols = Work around ch-space as follows: 2 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc
symbols = Work around ch-space as follows: 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc
symbols = beg here
symbols = crochet direction
symbols = Work tr-group with 4 tr: * Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times in same dc, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
symbols = 1 loop: Work 1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc.
symbols = 5 ch
symbols = this round is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Inge Blesinger wrote:

Müsste es in der Anleitung zu den Häkelquadraten in der 5. RD nicht immer 6 LM heißen? Das 1. Mal heißt es: 9 LM.

27.12.2017 - 16:27

country flag Betty Edwards wrote:

I don't understand how much yarn to order for a size large! Help! How many do I order...surely not 340 !

13.08.2016 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Edwards, for a large size you've to order 450g of Fabel, i.e. 9 skeins. Remember to check your tension! Happy crocheting!

13.08.2016 - 19:42

country flag Betty Edwards wrote:

I don't understand how much yarn to order for a size large! Help! How many do I order...surely not 340 !

13.08.2016 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Edwards, for a large size you've to order 450g of Fabel, i.e. 9 skeins. Remember to check your tension! Happy crocheting!

13.08.2016 - 19:47

country flag Ansa Grahn wrote:

Hameen virkkaamisen aloitus jäi epäselväksi. Nappilista? Voisi olla kuva nappilistastakin.

12.01.2016 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Voit tuoda työsi lähimmälle DROPS jälleenmyyjälle, liikkeessä saat opastusta paikan päällä.

18.01.2016 - 17:46

country flag Lonca Mireille wrote:

Merci pour votre reponse rapide et les tres joli modeles

20.10.2015 - 19:55

country flag Lonca Mireille wrote:

En partant des carrés vers le bas de la jupe ,vous marquez :tour 1 :0-1-0-0-1-0 B Qu'entendez vous par là? Vous commencez le tour par rien?

20.10.2015 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lonca, chaque chiffre se réfère à la taille, ainsi en taille M et XXL (2ème et 5ème taille), on commence par 1B puis on répète de *-* - dans les autres tailles (S, L, XL, XXXL), on commence directement par crocheter de *-*. Bon crochet!

20.10.2015 - 17:25

Jennifer Barrett wrote:

I would really like to make this skirt but am unsure that your sizing is - what is the waist measure for the sizes L and XL or even XXL? Thanks Jennifer

11.08.2015 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Barrett, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures taken flat from side to side (in cm). Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape, this is the most accurate way to find out the matching size. Happy crocheting!

11.08.2015 - 12:48

country flag Tina wrote:

I think I just died a little. Or maybe my heart skipped a couple of beats! Have to make this!!!

13.06.2015 - 14:46

country flag Débora wrote:

Es estupendo que incluyáis este tipo de faldas en vuestro catálogo ;)

12.06.2015 - 21:18

country flag Katrin wrote:

Hat für mich etwas von einer Gardine...

01.06.2015 - 13:47