DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Bliss Vest

Crochet DROPS vest with A-shape, lace pattern and ties in ”Belle”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 167-19
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-019
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 03, light beige

DROPS Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 16 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 5 cm / 2''. NOTE: 1 ch-space = 1 dc + 2 ch should measure 1½ cm / ½'' in width - make sure that ch are not worked too tight.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every dc row replace first dc with 4 ch.
Replace first tr on every tr row with 5 ch.
Replace first dtr on every dtr row with 6 ch.
Beg every sc row with 1 ch. Ch does not replace first sc.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES:
Dec 1 ch-space at beg of row as follows seen from RS: Work ch 2, skip the first ch-space, work 1 dc around next ch-space. On next row skip the last ch-space seen from WS (= first ch-space seen from RS).

Dec 1 ch-space at end of row as follows seen from RS: Work until 1 ch-space remains, ch 2, skip the last ch-space, work 1 st in each of the remaining sts. On next row skip the first ch-space, work ch 2, and 1 dc around next ch-space seen from WS (= last ch-space seen from RS).
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VEST:
Worked back and forth, bottom up. Then divide piece at the armholes and work front and back piece separately. Work an edge at the bottom of with mesh pattern at the end.

Work 197-206-225-244-272-290 loose ch (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Belle. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3-5-3-1-1-5 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 26-27-30-33-37-39 more times = 166-174-190-206-230-246 dc and 4 ch to turn with - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue back and forth with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4''. Now work pattern from 2nd row in diagram from RS as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 dc), then work A.2 (= 8 dc) 19-20-22-24-27-29 times in width, A.3 (= 7 dc). On last row in diagram A.1 to A.3 dec 32 dc evenly in all sizes - READ DECREASE TIP = 135-143-159-175-199-215 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 25-25-26-26-27-27 cm / 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-10"½ vertically. Then work pattern from 2nd row in A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before (but now work 15-16-18-20-23-25 repetitions of A.2 in width). Finish before the last 2 rows in diagram A.1 to A.3. Now work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and adjust no of sts to 136-140-161-173-197-210 dc. Cut the yarn. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now divide the piece into 2 front pieces and one back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work first row as follows: A.4 over the first 12 dc, then work A.5 over the next 15-15-21-24-30-33 dc (= 5-5-7-8-10-11 repetitions in width), A.6 over the next 6 dc = 9-9-11-12-14-15 ch-spaces on first row. Now work as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth until 4th row in A.4 has been worked vertically. NOTE: Repeat 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 and A.6 vertically. 2 ch-spaces have been dec for neck mid front in both sizes.
Then repeat 3rd and 4th row in diagram A.4 3-3 more times vertically = 5-5 ch-spaces dec in total for neck mid front and 4-4 ch-spaces (with 2 ch) remain for shoulder. Piece measures approx. 13-13 cm / 5"-5".

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth with ch-spaces, AT THE SAME TIME on next row dec ch-spaces for neck towards mid front and dec ch-spaces for armhole as follows:

DECREASE ARMHOLE:
On next row dec 1 ch-space for armhole – READ DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES. Repeat dec 0-1-2-2) more times = 1-2-3-3 ch-spaces dec in total for armhole.

DECREASE NECK:
When 4th row in A.4 has been worked, 2 ch-spaces have been dec in size L, XL, XXL and XXXL. Then repeat dec for neck (i.e. 3rd and 4th row in A.4) 3-3-3-4 more times = 6-6-6-7 ch-spaces dec in total for neck.

ALL SIZES:
Continue with ch-spaces as before but now work 5th and 6th row in A.4 towards the neck until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''.

BACK PIECE:
Beg at armhole on right front piece and skip 4-6-6-6-6-8 dc for armhole. Work A.7 (= 8 dc), A.5 (= 3 dc) 16-16-19-21-25-26 times in width, work A.6 (= 6 dc) = 19-19-22-24-28-29 ch-spaces on first row. Continue as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 to A.7 until piece measures 14-15 cm / 5½"-6" – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 to A.7, AT THE SAME TIME on next row bind off for armholes in each side inside 3 sts - READ DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES. NOTE: Work 3 tr instead of 3 dc in each side on the rows with dec (this is done to avoid tight edges). Repeat dec 0-1-2-2 more times (= 1-2-3-3 dec in total in each side) = 20-20-22-23 ch-spaces remain. Then continue with ch-spaces as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in diagram A.5 to A.7 until piece measures 16-17-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½" – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

Then continue as explained below in all sizes:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc and 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch), work 1 dc in next dc, then work 24-24-26-26-26-28 dc evenly over the next 10-10-11-11-11-12 ch-spaces from previous row, work 1 dc in next dc, and 1 dc around next ch-space, continue with 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch) and 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc. There are now 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc consecutively in the middle of back piece.
Then finish each shoulder separately. Turn, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then work as before over the 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc of the 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed. Beg at the armhole, and work 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc, then work ch-spaces as before over the 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, and 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Beg at armhole on back piece and skip 4-6-6-6-6-7 dc for armhole. Work A.7 (= 8 dc), A.5 (= 3 dc) 4-4-6-7-9-10 times in width, finish with A.8 (= 13 dc). Continue like this back and forth as on right front piece but reversed. Adjust according to right front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew one and one stitch neatly tog and make sure to avoid a tight seam. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Now work an edge at the bottom of vest as follows:
ROW 1: Fasten yarn with 1 sc and 3 ch in the first ch worked at beg of piece, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch (= band), then work * ch 2, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', work 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* along entire edge until approx. 1½ cm / ½'' remain before the last 4 ch on row, work 2 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 4 ch. There are now approx. 66-69-76-83-93-99 ch-spaces and 4 dc for band in each side - remember crochet info.
ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, work ch 1, 1 dc around next ch-space, * ch 2, 1 dc around next ch-space * in every ch-space on row, and finish with 1 ch and 1 dc in each of the 4 dc for band.
ROW 3: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, work ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 dc, * 1 dc around next ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains with ch 2, work 1 dc around this ch-space, ch 2, and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 dc for band.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' in total (measured from shoulder) or to desired length. Fasten off.

TIES WITH TASSEL:
Cut 2 lengths of yarn of 90 cm / 35½''. Twine them until the resist. Thread one end through last dc-row worked before piece was divided for front pieces and back piece and place tie double so that it twines again. Tie a knot in the loose end. Repeat in the other side.
Then make a tassel in the end of each of the ties: Cut 14 strands of 24 cm / 9½'', thread them through one end on one of the ties and distribute the ends so that they are even. Wind a strand several times around the tassel approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from the top, to get a nice top and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.03.2016
Correction in chart A.1 and A.2, row 4: 1 sc in st (not: 1 sc around st).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = 1 sc around st
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 1 dc around ch/ch-space
symbols = 1 tr in st
symbols = 1 dtr
symbols = Work 2 dtr into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 dtr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
symbols = this row is explained in pattern/ work from second row
(When working RIGHT FRONT PIECE going into A.4-A.5 you need to start from second row to get the ch-spaces)
symbols = work in this st
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (82)

country flag Pia wrote:

Hej, jag har gjort klart bakstycket, men det ser inte alls ut som på modellbilderna. Det är ju ett helt annat sätt att virka bakstycket som syns på modellbilderna. Kan ni ge mig beskrivningen på hur man gör bakstycket som modellen bär?

17.02.2024 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, jo når du har delt arbejdet til 2 forstykker og bagstykke skal du kun hækle de huller som er øverst på bærestykket. Det er samme mønster i A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 den eneste forskel er at A4 og A8 viser hvordan du hækler mod V-halsen :)

23.02.2024 - 11:21

country flag Patricia wrote:

Lo siento pero no entiendo las explicaciones para disminuir, hay algún tutorial donde se vea como se hacen las disminuciones en este chaleco?

28.01.2024 - 18:55

country flag Ebru wrote:

Love this pattern and start tonight. Thank you for this beautiful vest. But there is a point I don't understand, why do we make an extra chain at the beginning of the row? Why is it 4ch instead of 1dc when it should be 3ch instead of 1dc? This will cause it to stay loose around the edges. And not all around. In one it will appear loose and then the other will appear normal.

23.06.2023 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ebru, not sure what you mean with 1 extra chain, under CROCHET INFO we explain how to start the row either treble crochet (UK-English)/double crochet (US-English) / double treble crochet (UK-English) / treble crochet (US-English) or triple treble crochet (UK-English) / double treble crochet (US/English) - should you rather crochet 3 chains at the beg of the row, make sure these 3 chains are as high as 1 treble/double crochet will be (see appropriate English). Happy crocheting!

23.06.2023 - 15:51

country flag Madeline Odonnell wrote:

Hi can you please tell me how many ball of Drops Bella yarn would i need to order for x large size . Thank you Regards Madeline

28.06.2022 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Madeline, you will find the required amount of yarn under the header, so that in size XL you need 450 g DROPS Belle / 50 g a ball = you need 9 balls in XL. Happy crocheting!

29.06.2022 - 08:56

country flag María Jesús Aramendía wrote:

Hola!!! Me encantan vuestros patrones y los ovillos de Drops. He realizado varios proyectos y deseo seguir tejiendo con vosotros. Muchas gracias.

17.06.2021 - 18:01

country flag Marjo Kuhl wrote:

Sorry ik ben er al uit Fijne dag

06.06.2021 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjo,

Mooi dat je eruit gekomen bent en bedankt voor de terugkoppeling. Veel haakplezier!

07.06.2021 - 20:01

country flag Marjo Kuhl wrote:

Hallo ik ben begonnen met dit vest na het eerste deel ,5cm 174 stokjes wil ik het patroon haken heb daar alleen 175 steken voor nodig?1x a1 is 8 stokjes 20 x a2 is168 steken en 1 xa3 is 7 steken bij elkaar 175 steken .weet even niet meer hoe verder te gaan Ik hoop dat u mij kunt helepen met groeten

06.06.2021 - 11:29

country flag Yvonne Michels wrote:

Sorry voor mijn vorige bericht. Ben er achter gekomen dat het mijn eigen fout is. Heb het patroon niet goed gelezen. Steeds A1, A2,A3 gehaakt ipv A1, A2 A2 enz., A3. Alles uitgehaald en weer opnieuw begonnen. Hoop dat het nu wel lukt. Dank

17.05.2021 - 00:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

Mooi dat je het ontdekt hebt, zodat je verder kunt. Dank voor de terugkoppeling en veel haakplezier!

19.05.2021 - 10:05

country flag Yvonne Michels wrote:

Bij de 2e keer het patroon A1/A3 bij maat XXL heb ik 199 steken, als ik het patroon volg kom ik niet met de steken uit dan houd ik 15 steken over en ik heb er 23 nodig. Wat doe ik niet goed?

16.05.2021 - 17:50

country flag Alexandra wrote:

Ik maak maat L. Bij het achterpand staat voor de armsgaten aan beide zijden 1 lus minderen. Is dit alleen de lossen of 3 steken? Zoals je dit haakte bij het bovenstuk van het voorpand waarbij je één lus en stokje mindert? Wordt het dan niet erg scheef?

27.04.2021 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Alexandra,

Je kunt gewoon minderen zoals bovenaan bij 'tip voor het minderen l-lussen' staat aangegeven. Dan zou het goed moeten komen.

29.04.2021 - 15:13