DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Peaceful Mind

Crochet DROPS tunic with fan pattern in “Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-26
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-021
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color no 15, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 10 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row/round with 3 ch. Finish a round with dc with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec at beg of round as follows: Work sl sts over no of dc to be dec.
Dec at end of round as follows: When no of dc to be dec remains, turn piece.
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US/UK: This pattern is in US English. There are different crochet terms in British and US English. Conversion - see page 4.

TUNIC:
Worked in several part and in different directions. First work top part with front and back piece, then work body down and in the round.

TOP PART:
Work 180-199-218-242-271-300 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Belle. Turn and work 1 dc in fourth ch from hook (= 2 dc), * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping ch 1, 1 dc in each of the last 1-2-3-3-2-1 ch = 148-164-180-200-224-248 dc. Turn and work 1 dc in every dc back and forth until piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Cut the yarn. Then work front piece back and forth over the middle 72-80-88-98-110-122 dc on row (= 38-42-46-51-57-63 dc remain in each side for back piece).

FRONT PIECE:
= 72-80-88-98-110-112 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole in each side on every row as follows: 3 dc 1-1-1-2-2-3 times, 2 dc 2-3-4-4-6-7 times and 1 dc 4-4-4-4-4-3 times = 50-54-58-62-66-70 dc - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue to work until piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½". Now work only over the first 11-12-13-14-15-16 dc on row (= from RS). Work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''. Repeat in the opposite side but now work over the last 11-12-13-14-15-16 dc on row (= from RS). The 28-30-32-34-36-38 dc not worked towards mid front = neck.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Now work over the first 38-42-46-51-57-63 from top part, 4 dc towards mid back = band. Bind off for armhole in the side as on front piece = 27-29-31-33-35-37 dc. When piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾, work only over the last 11-12-13-14-15-16 dc on row (= from RS). Work 2 rows in total over these 11-12-13-14-15-16 sts, the 16-17-18-19-20-21 dc not worked towards mid back = neck. Fasten off, piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Work as left piece but reversed.

BODY:
Worked top down, from underside of ch-row from top part.
Place the outermost 4 dc from left back piece under the outermost 4 dc from right back piece (= bands), beg mid back and work 1 dc through both layers in each of the 4 dc on band, then work 1 dc in every dc from bottom edge of ch-row, finish with 1 sl st in third ch at beg of round = 144-160-176-196-220-244 dc.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 round with 1 dc in every dc while inc 1-0-4-4-0-1 dc = 145-160-180-200-220-245 dc. Now work fan pattern as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first dc, *4 ch, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 4, skip 4 dc and 1 sl st in first sc = 29-32-36-40-44-49 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in every ch-space.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in every ch-space. Repeat 3rd round until piece measures 18 cm / 7'' in all sizes.

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 dc + 2 ch + 4 dc in every ch-space.
Repeat this round until piece measures 31 cm / 12 1/4'' in all sizes.

WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS: Work sl sts until first ch-space, then work 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in every ch-space. Repeat this round until piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'' Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND ARMHOLE:
Work an edge around the armholes as follows:
ROUND 1: Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round – make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, work 1 sc around first ch-space, * 1 sc around same ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, work 2 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round. Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND NECK:
Work an edge around the neck as follows:
ROW 1: Work ch 1, 1 sc, * ch 1, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* make sure to work a no of sc/ch that is divisible by 4. Turn.
ROW 2: Work ch 1, work 1 sc around first ch-space, * 1 sc around same ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, work 2 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-*. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Distribute 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttons on left band mid back and fasten. Button between dc on right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Trille Hansen wrote:

Trille Hansen 01.07.2020 - 14:00: Jeg kan ikke få maske antallet til at passe på midt stk. antal af m passer ikke, på ingen af str. jeg skal have 51 i hver side og 88 i midt men det kan aldrig blive det antal masker jeg ender ud med efter at ha slået 218 m op og hæklet 1 række - 180 m. Hvordan kommer jeg videre?

01.07.2020 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trille, jo hvis du hopper over hver 6.maske på første række så vil du få 180 st. Det er de 180 du deler op, så du har 88 m over forstykket og 46 i hver side til bagstykker. God fornøjelse!

02.07.2020 - 11:46

country flag Trille Hansen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maske antallet til at passe på midt stk. antal af m passer ikke, på ingen af str. jeg skal have 51 i hver side og 88 i midt men det kan aldrig blive det antal masker jeg ender ud med efter at ha slået 218 m op og hæklet 1 række - 180 m. Hvordan kommer jeg videre?

01.07.2020 - 14:00

country flag ANTONELLA wrote:

Buonasera, ho finito la parte superiore e il davanti. Sto iniziando il DIETRO SINISTRO ma non capisco cosa intendete per 4 maglie alte verso il centro dietro...cioé dopo aver lavorato le prime 46 m (taglia L) della parte superiore dove devo lavorarle queste 4 m alte? Grazie mille per la risposta!

15.02.2020 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Antonella. Lavora le 46 maglie per il dietro sinistro. Le 4 maglie non sono in aggiunta. La tunica è aperta sul dietro e queste 4 maglie sono le 4 maglie di bordo su cui andranno attaccati i bottoni. Buon lavoro!

17.02.2020 - 12:42

country flag Sapienza Antonella wrote:

Buongiorno, sto iniziando la parte del dietro sinistro (ho già eseguito parte superiore e davanti) ma non ho capito cosa intendete nelle prime due righe dello schema quando dite "4 maglie alte verso il centro dietro". Inizio lavorando le 46 m (taglia L) dalla parte superiore e poi devo fare 4 m alte in più per il bordo?? Grazie per laiuto

15.02.2020 - 17:42

country flag Lene Nielsen wrote:

Hvad menes der med de 4 stm mod midt bagpå ved venstre rygstykke ?? Jeg kan ikk lige greje den

16.07.2019 - 18:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, du skal få en kant med st mod midt bagpå. God fornøjelse!

30.09.2019 - 08:54

country flag Carmen Nevin wrote:

I am a complete beginner and am struggling to find a simple tunic style dress pattern for my 6 year old daughter and this is the closest I have found! Any plans to convert/ alter it to suit older (not toddler) girls? Many thanks!

18.02.2019 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nevin, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. For any individual assistance, please contact - even per mail or telephone - the store where you bought the yarn. Happy crocheting!

18.02.2019 - 16:00

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Si je ne veux pas faire le dos avec des boutons mais en continu, puis-je faire comme le devant? ...ou aurais-je des problèmes pour le mettre? Merci

08.02.2019 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, il sera probablement plus seyant et plus facile à enfiler si vous conservez les boutons dans le dos. Bon crochet!

08.02.2019 - 15:07

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Hi. I started with this pattern yesterday. I'm just wondering if I understand right that the 199 chain will go around the waist when finished? I'm of normal weight and thought size M would be best. But when putting it around the waist, I have approx. 25cm left. I'm using the correct hook size and the same yarn, so I'm hesitating to continue and later have an oversized tunic.

30.07.2018 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elisabeth, when you add a couple of rows to a chainstitch row it will pull it together, contract ot somewhat. First you should always do a swatch and check your cochet gauge, and then start the piece, and see the length after a few rows. Happy crafting!

31.07.2018 - 08:06

country flag Mariëlle wrote:

Bedankt Garnstudio voor dit leuke patroon! Inmiddels is het af. Ik wil nog wel even doorgeven dat ik zeker één bol extra verbruikt heb dan wat er volgens het patroon aangegeven staat. Wellicht handig voor andere haaksters die ook nog aan dit project willen beginnen.

24.01.2018 - 10:41

country flag Mariëlle wrote:

Ik reageer even op de graag van Martha, want volgens mij klopt het patroon inderdaad niet. Voor maat L moet je inderdaad begonnen met 218 lossen te haken. Volgens mij moet je deze echt er niet sluiten met een halve vaste, maar gewoon weer terug haken. Als je het patroon vertaalt vanuit het Engels of het Duits, dan staat er Volgens mij nergens dat je deze ketting van lossen moet sluiten met een halve vaste.

29.06.2017 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Mariële, Ik heb het patroon even goed doorgelezen en je hebt gelijk! Als je in de rondte zou breien, zou je ook geen knoopbies krijgen. Het is aangepast hoor. Dankjewel voor het doorgeven!

29.06.2017 - 20:37