DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 126-14
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-035
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
50-50-100 g color no 05, beige/gray/pink mix
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25-25-50 g color no 04, medium-pink

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 21 sc x 22 rows with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, no 521: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO-1: Replace first sc at beg of round with 1 ch and replace first dc with 3 ch.
Finish each sc round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Finish each dc round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Crochet through the whole st if not otherwise stated.

CROCHET TOG OF SC:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pull thread through, insert hook in next st, pull thread through, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

CROCHET TOG OF TR:
Crochet 2 tr tog to 1 tr as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last YO and pull-through, work 1 tr in next st, and now pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.

CROCHET TIP:
The ch-string may be adjusted to individual measurements. Try on the slipper by placing upper foot to the point of toes and place the ch-string round the foot behind the ankle and back to upper foot. The ch string should be stretched slightly to create the perfect fit. Make sure to have an even no of ch in the string.
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SLIPPER:

UPPER FOOT:
Beg with upper foot back and forth as described below - See CROCHET INFO-2.
REMEMBER CROCHET GAUGE – make sure not to crochet too loosely.
Ch 4 with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROW 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 7 dc in ring (= 8 dc), turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row (= 8 dc with 2 ch between each), turn piece.
ROW 3: ch 1, 3 sc in each ch space = 21 sc, turn piece.
ROW 4: ch 4 (= 1 hdc + 2 ch), * skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, skip 2 sc and finish with 1 hdc in ch from beg of previous row (= 8 hdc with 2 ch between each), turn piece.
ROW 5: ch 1, 4 sc in each ch space = 28 sc, turn piece.
ROW 6: ch 5 (= 1 sc + 4 ch), * skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, skip 3 sc and finish with 1 sc in ch from beg of previous row (= 7 ch spaces), turn piece.
ROW 7: ch 1, 5 sc round first ch space, 5 hdc round second ch space, 5 dc round third ch space, 5 tr round fourth ch space, 5 dc round fifth ch space, 5 hdc round sixth ch space and 5 sc round seventh ch space.
ROW 8: ch 3, then 19 dc evenly along the straight edge at the top of upper piece (= 20 dc).
Now ch 60-70-80 loosely – See CROCHET TIP - fasten with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row with dc at the top along upper piece.

SIDE AND SOLE:
Turn piece to have the RS facing out and beg along the 60-70-80 ch (i.e. towards the heel).
Continue in the round and work down towards the sole – See CROCHET INFO 1 AND 2.
ROUND 1: work 1 dc in each of the 60-70-80 ch round foot, then work 2 dc in the outermost dc along the straight edge at the top of upper foot, then 1 dc in each dc along the outer side of upper foot but in the middle of the 5 tr on toe work 3 dc, and then 2 dc in the outermost dc along the straight edge at the top of upper foot = 101-111-121 dc.
ROUND 2: Insert a marker between the 2 middle sts at the back of slipper. Work 1 sc in each dc until 10-12-14 dc remain before marker, work 1-1-2 hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-24 dc (marker sits in the middle of these dc), 1-1-2 hdc and 1 sc in each of the next dc on round.
ROUND 3: Like round 2.
ROUND 4: Now crochet the sole – only crochet in back loop of st (not through the whole st): Work 1 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each st, AT THE SAME TIME work every 4th and 5th sc tog – SEE ABOVE = 81-89-97 sc.
ROUND 5: Now crochet through the whole st again. Work 1 sc in each sc = 81-89-97 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each of the first 6-4-2 sc, then 1 sc in each sc, AT THE SAME TIME work every 4th and 5th sc tog = 66-72-78 sc.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc = 66-72-78 sc.
Now insert a marker mid front and mid back = 33-36-39 sts between markers.

SIZE US 5/6½ (EU 35/37):
ROUND 8: 1 sc in each sc, AT THE SAME TIME work the middle 10 sc mid front and mid back (i.e. 5 sts each side of both markers) tog 2 and 2 = 56 sc.
ROUND 9: 1 sc in each sc = 56 sc.
ROUND 10: 1 dc in each sc but in the middle 5 sts mid front and mid back work 1 hdc, 3 sc and 1 hdc. Cut the thread – leave enough thread end to assemble the sole.

SIZE US 7½/9 (EU 38/40):
ROUND 8: 1 sc in each sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 9: 1 sc in each sc, AT THE SAME TIME work the middle 10 sc mid front and mid back (i.e. 5 sts each side of both markers) tog 2 and 2 = 62 sc.
ROUND 10: 1 sc in each sc = 62 sc.
ROUND 11: 1 dc in each sc but in the middle 5 sts mid front and mid back work 1 hdc, 3 sc and 1 hdc. Cut the thread – leave enough thread end to assemble the sole.

SIZE US 9½/10½ (EU 41/43):
ROUND 8+9: 1 sc in each sc = 78 sc.
ROUND 10: 1 sc in each sc, AT THE SAME TIME work the middle 10 sc mid front and mid back (i.e. 5 sts each side of both markers) tog 2 and 2 = 68 sc.
ROUND 11: 1 sc in each sc = 68 sc.
ROUND 12: 1 dc in each sc but in the middle 5 sts mid front and mid back work 1 hdc, 3 sc and 1 hdc. Cut the thread – leave enough thread end to assemble the sole.

ALL SIZES:
Sew sole tog mid under foot – sew edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

BORDER ROUND THE TOP:
ROUND 1: Beg from RS along the straight edge on upper foot and work 1 sl st in each of the 18 middle dc, then 1 sc in each dc round foot until 14-18-22 dc remain before marker mid back, work 3 hdc, 22-30-38 dc, 3 hdc and continue with sc to the beg of round, finish with 1 sl st in first sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sl st in each of the 18 sl sts on upper foot, 1 sc in each st until 20-22-24 sts remain before marker mid back, work 3 hdc, 10-12-14 dc, 5 tr, 2 tr tog - SEE ABOVE - 2 tr tog, 5 tr, 10-12-14 dc, 3 hdc and continue with sc to beg of round, finish with 1 sl st in first sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in each of the 18 sl sts on upper foot, then 1 sc in each st until 21-23-25 sts remain before marker mid back, work 5 hdc, 10-12-14 dc, 5 tr, 2 tr tog, 5 tr, 10-12-14 dc, 5 hdc and continue with sc to beg of round, finish with 1 sl st in first sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 4: 1 sl st in each st round the whole opening of slipper.

STRAP FOR BUTTON:
Ch 31-31-34 with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and 1 strand of each quality. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch *, repeat from *-* = 20-20-22 dc. Cut the thread and sew the strap to the inside of slipper approx 5 cm / 2'' from the straight edge on upper foot. Repeat for the other slipper.
Sew the button on the outside of each slipper approx 1-1½ cm / ½'' from the edge (and approx 5 cm / 2'' from the straight edge on upper foot). Use gap between 2 dc on strap as buttonhole.



Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (77)

country flag Emma wrote:

Hej. Hvad mener opskriften når man skal hækle 1-1-2 halvstangmaske?

02.09.2020 - 10:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emma, du vælger det antal ud for den størrelse du hækler: Størrelse: 35/37=1 - 38/40=1 - 41/43=2 God fornøjelse!

02.09.2020 - 13:47

country flag Olivia wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour ces explications! Je pense que je vais y arriver. Toutefois, j’ai regardé la traduction en anglais, et quand il est dit “ straight edge” je pense qu’il vaudrait mieux traduire “tout droit “ plutôt que côté droit. Ça m’a aidé à comprendre où j’en étais. Merci beaucoup pour ce joli modèle et à bientôt!

12.11.2018 - 12:23

country flag Olivia wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide. En fait, je ne comprends pas quand il est dit « puis 2 B dans la 1ère B le long du bord droit du dessus du pied, puis 1 B dans chaque B le long du bord extérieur du dessus du pied mais au milieu des 5 DB de la pointe, crocheter 3 B, et 2 B dans la dernière B le long du bord droit en haut du dessus du pied = 101-111-121 B » . Quand j’ai fini les B dans les ms autour du pied, je me retrouve donc du côté gauche du pied. Mais après je suis perdue...

12.11.2018 - 11:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Olivia, dans les 20 brides du dessus du pied vous crochetez: 2 B dans la 1ère et dans la dernière, 1 bride dans chacune des autres brides entre, sauf que vous allez sauter 2 brides au milieu (= au milieu des 20 brides, crochetez 3 brides au-dessus des 5 centrales). Bon crochet!

12.11.2018 - 12:09

country flag Olivia wrote:

Bonjour! J’ai des difficultés à comprendre le tour 1. Quand on parle de bord droit, au dessus du pied, s’agit- il du pied droit ou du pied gauche? Et après les 3B a l’endroit des 5DB, faut il continuer en B jusqu’au début du tour 2 ? J’espère que vous pourrez m’aider. À bientôt, O

11.11.2018 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Olivia, pour la bordure autour du chausson, il s'agit du bord droit du dessus du pied - les 2 chaussons se font de la même façon, seule la bride sera cousue différemment avec le bouton côté extérieur. En revanche, je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre les 3 B à l'endroit des 5 B dont vous parlez, désolée, pouvez-vous être plus précise? Merci!

12.11.2018 - 10:32

country flag Anja wrote:

Ich hatte noch ein bißchen bunte Sockenwolle übrig und habe daraus, eigentlich aus Langeweile, diese Schuhe gehäkelt. Herausgekommen ist ein supersüßer Hausschuh, der beim herstellen viel Spaß gemacht hat. Danke für die Anleitung!

23.05.2016 - 12:00

Andrea wrote:

Ich habe wie beschrieben den Anfangsring gemacht, aber wie ist das gemeint die Arbeit drehen? Wird da nach jeder Runde dann in die andere Richtung gearbeitet?

26.01.2016 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Ja ganz genau. Sie häkeln in Runden, aber wenden nach jeder Runde, sodass Sie von der anderen Seite weiterhäkeln, oder anders ausgedrückt in die entgegengesetzte Richtung häkeln.

02.02.2016 - 11:34

country flag Garcia Laporte wrote:

Que signifie l'abréviation DB au crochet ? à la différence de dB qui veut dire demi-bride. Merci de me répondre rapidement, je suis en panne sur le modèle de ballerines n°DE-035

13.12.2013 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Laporte, la dB = demi-bride effectivement et DB = double bride. Vous retrouverez toutes les abréviations utilisées dans le lexique. Bon crochet!

13.12.2013 - 16:42

country flag Gauthier wrote:

Modèle très sympa pour marcher "a pas de loup" le nom : chausson adulte

22.10.2013 - 09:34

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Où pourrais je trouver les semelles pour faire ces chaussons, ils sont superbes

03.07.2013 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, ces chaussons sont entièrement réalisés au crochet. Bon crochet!

04.07.2013 - 10:56

country flag Pina wrote:

Bonjour, existe t il un diagramme ? merci d avance

02.07.2013 - 05:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pina, il n'y a pas de diagramme pour ce modèle, suivez pas à pas les instructions, maille après maille et rang après rang. Bon crochet!

02.07.2013 - 08:40