DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Licorice Squares Vest

Crochet DROPS waistcoat in ”Karisma” with squares. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS 115-37
DROPS design: Pattern no U-586.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-100-112-124-136 cm /33’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-44’’-48¾’’-53½’’
Full length: 51-51-51-60-60-60 cm /20”-20”-20”-23 5/8”-23 5/8”-23 5/8”

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 53, charcoal gray
50 g for all sizes color no 05, black
50 g for all sizes color no 19, white
50 g for all sizes color no 21, gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 1 square = 9.5 x 9.5 cm / 3¾” x 3¾”.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 sts x 12 rows in PATTERN = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, no 536: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
ROW 1: 1 dc in each sc, finish row with 1 ch to turn with.
ROW 2: 1 sc in each dc, finish row with 3 ch to turn with.

DECREASING TIP (armholes):
Dec as follows at the end of row: work row until 1 st remain, turn piece and work return row.
Dec as follows at beg of row: work 1 sl st in first st, continue as before.
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WAISTCOAT: Front piece crochet in squares. Back piece + side piece crochet in pattern rows.

COLORS OF SQUARES:
SQUARE A: Beg + round 1 = charcoal gray, round 2 = gray, round 3 = white, round 4 = black, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE B: Beg + round 1 = black, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = white, round 4 = gray, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE C: Beg + round 1 = white, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = black, round 4 = gray, round 5 = charcoal gray.
SQUARE D: Beg + round 1 = white, round 2 = charcoal gray, round 3 = gray, round 4 = black, round 5 = charcoal gray.

WHOLE SQUARE:
Crochet 6 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch, 2 dc in ring, * 3 ch, 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 2: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 3: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 4: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 5: Crochet 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Square measures approx 9.5 x 9.5 cm / 3¾” x 3¾”.

HALF SQUARE:
Read US/UK above! Crochet 6 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROW 1: 4 ch, 3 dc in ring, 3 ch, 3 dc in ring, 1 ch, 1 dc in ring. Turn piece.
ROW 2: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.
ROW 3: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.
ROW 4: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 ch, 1 dc in the last ch. Turn piece.
ROW 5: Crochet 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch.

NUMBER OF SQUARES:
SIZE S-M-L: Crochet 4 whole + 1 half square of A, 5 whole squares of B, 2 whole + 2 half squares of C and 3 whole + 1 half square of D = a total of 14 whole and 4 half squares.
SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL: Crochet 4 whole + 2 half squares of A, 6 whole squares of B, 3 whole + 2 half squares of C and 5 whole squares of D = a total of 18 whole and 4 half squares.

BACK PIECE + SIDE PIECE: Crochet the first 12 cm / 4¾’’ in 2 parts (for split mid back).

PART-1 (= left side includes buttonhole band): Crochet 38-45-54-66-78-90 loose ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with charcoal gray. Crochet first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 1-3-2-4-1-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 30-36-43-53-62-72 sc. Continue in PATTERN – see above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ put it aside.

PART-2 (= right side includes buttonhole band): Crochet like part-1, but when piece measures approx 5 cm / 2’’ – adjust so that next row is a row with dc - make 1 buttonhole towards mid back by replacing the last but 2 dc towards mid back with 1 ch, on next row crochet 1 sc in ch. Repeat when piece measures 10 cm / 4’’. Put piece aside when it measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ (adjust to no of rows on part-1.

BACK PIECE + SIDE PIECE:
Place part-1 and part-2 over each other (right side over left side) with 6 sts overlapping mid back – (i.e. 1 row crochet through 2 layers on these 6 sts) = 54-66-80-100-118-138 sts. Continue in pattern, AT THE SAME TIME on next row with dc inc 1 st each side by working 2 dc in the last but 1 dc each side. Repeat the inc on every other row a total of 9 times = 72-84-98-118-136-156 sts.
When piece measures 30-29-28-36-35-34 cm / 11¾”-11 3/8”-11”-14¼”-13¾”-13 3/8” bind off for armhole as follows:

RIGHT SIDE PIECE:
Continue in pattern as before on the 0-3-5-7-8-11 outermost sts at the side (the next 5-5-8-14-21-25 sts = armhole - in size S all sts on side piece = armhole). Now dec 1 st on every row towards armhole until all sts have been dec – SEE DECREASING TIP!

LEFT SIDE PIECE:
Like right side piece.

BACK PIECE:
Crochet back and forth on the middle 62-68-72-76-78-84 sts only, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards armhole each side on every row until 62 sts remain (for all sizes). When piece measures 46-46-46-55-55-55 cm / 18”-18”-18”-21 5/8”-21 5/8”-21 5/8” crochet 2 rows on 16 sts each side only (the middle 30 sts = neckline). Cut the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew squares tog to 2 front pieces as shown in chart – sew edge to edge with charcoal gray in outer loops of sts. Sew front pieces to back piece and sew shoulder seams in the same way.

BORDER ARMHOLE:
Crochet 2-2-2-5-5-5 rounds with sc round armholes with charcoal gray and crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - approx 16 sc per 10 cm / 4’’ – make sure border is even, i.e. not too many sc.

BORDER WAISTCOAT:
Crochet a border round the whole waistcoat with charcoal gray on crochet hook size 4.5 mm/US 7. Beg at bottom of split on back piece, continue along bottom edge, up along right front piece, round neck, down along left front piece and along bottom edge to split mid back (i.e. do not crochet each side of split mid back)
Crochet 5 rows back and forth with sc - approx 16 sc per 10 cm / 4’’ - NOTE: in all outward facing corners crochet 3 sc and in all inward facing corners skip 1 st.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 (= WS) make 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttonholes on right front band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = 2 ch and skip 2 sc, on next row crochet 2 sc in each ch-loop. Make 1 buttonhole in each transition between the squares.
Sew 2 buttons to split mid back and 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttons to left front band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.11.2009
HALF SQUARE:
ROW 3: 4 ch, 3 dc in first ch from previous row, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop (= corner), 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the same ch. Turn piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Erja Kumpula wrote:

Malli 115-37 koko M Ulompien 3 s:n ja 5:n kavennussilmukan (joka kerroksella) väliin tulee reikä,ymmärsinkö oikein?

05.03.2024 - 09:14

country flag Paola wrote:

Nel modello drops 115-37 non capisco le istruzioni relative al lato destro (e quindi anche lato sinistro) quando si inizia a formare gli Scalfi. Potete darmi maggiori dettagli? Grazie

10.01.2024 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, ci può spiegare meglio il punto che non le è chiaro? Buon lavoro!

10.01.2024 - 16:45

country flag Marja wrote:

Ik snap de mindering voor de armsgaten niet. Kunt u dit op een eenvoudiger manier uitleggen. Graag beginnen bij/onder het kopje...rechterkant werk. Moet je linker en rechter armsgaten los van elkaar haken?

25.10.2023 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marja,

Ja klopt, je haakt over de buitenste 0-3-5-7-8-11 steken en je haakt dus steeds over 1 steek minder (zoals bovenaan beschreven bij 'TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN' totdat alle steken op zijn.

26.10.2023 - 20:11

country flag Lita wrote:

Bij de achter en zijkanten staat bij de rechterkant ga verder in patroon enz... Moet ik over de 8 steken haken en dan minderen aan de rugkant? En de 21 steken voor de armsgaten laten liggen en de rug apart verder haken? Dit vind ik niet erg duidelijk in het patroon. Bij voorbaat dank

19.09.2023 - 14:58

country flag Patricia Naranjo wrote:

Muchas gracias, quisiera saber más sobre cómo se hacen los cuadros A-C del chaleco, no lo entiendo muy bien

11.07.2023 - 02:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Patricia, todos los cuadrados se trabajan igual, solo se cambian las combinaciones de colores. En el esquema de la prenda y la sección NÚMERO DE CUADRADOS puedes ver la cantidad de cuadrados que se trabajan de cada color; simplemente trabaja todos los CUADRADOS COMPLETOS de la combinación específica en la cantidad indicada. Esto se aplica también a los semicuadrados. Si tienes dudas en alguna fila concreta del patrón puedes indicárnoslo y trataremos de aclarártelo.

17.07.2023 - 10:43

country flag Carol Clement wrote:

DROPS 115-37 page 4 Border Waistcoat the buttonhole section. BUTTONHOLE= as written in pattern a spelling mistake but not sure?? Make 1 buttonhole in each dccansition between the squares. Question… is it --Make 1 buttonhole in each transition between the squares? Thank you for your time. Carol Clement

02.03.2023 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Clement, you are right, word is now properly edited, it should have been Make 1 buttonhole in each transition between the squares.; Thanks for noticing. Happy crocheting!

03.03.2023 - 08:55

country flag Elke Trueber wrote:

Sie schreiben in der Anleitung 14 Quadrate D. Ich zähle aber nur insgesamt 14 Quadrate auf dem Diagramm. Was stimmt nun?

12.02.2023 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Truebe, in S, M und L braucht man insgesamt 14 Quadrate (4 von A + 5 von B + 2 von C + 3 von D) + 4 halbe Quadrate (1 von A, 2 von C und 1 von D). Kann das Ihnen helfen?

13.02.2023 - 09:51

country flag BB wrote:

Hi there, I'm confused as to what happens after I have increased to 72 sts when making a size small. Does this mean I continue the pattern without decreasing the sts until it is 46cm in length? If so, why do I have to increase the sts beforehand, as I am now left with a trapezium shaped back piece as opposed to a rectangular one? Sorry if this is obvious, I'm a newbie!

12.10.2022 - 01:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear BB, in size S you won't work the side piece, cut the yarn when piece measures 30 cm, then skip the first 5 sts and work back piece over the middle 62 sts (the 5 sts on each side are for armhole, in S there are no "side piece") until piece measures 46 cm. Happy crocheting!

12.10.2022 - 09:15

country flag Severine Lbc wrote:

Bonsoir, je me demandais si pour les demis carrés, il fallait faire le rang 5 sur les 3 côtés ou bien seulement sur 2 ? Aussi, faut il bloquer les carrés avant de les assembler entre eux ou n'est ce pas nécessaire ? Merci !

17.12.2021 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lbc, le 5ème rang se fait sur/dans toutes les mailles du 4ème rang - soit 2 côtés seulement. Bloquer est souvent un choix personnel, certaines le font, d'autres pas. Demandez conseil à votre magasin si besoin, on vous aidera, même par mail ou téléphone. Bonne continuation!

17.12.2021 - 08:33

country flag Flo wrote:

Bonjour je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment on fait le dos après avoir fait les cotés et les diminutions d'emmanchures doit on tricoter en meme temps (pour une taille XL) 14 plus 76 mailles centrales plus 14 mailles de l'autre coté soit 104 mailles ou le dos est il indépendant ? merci bonne journée

05.09.2021 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Flo, pour le haut du dos, crochetez les 76 mailles centrales en diminuant 1 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 62 mailles, puis à 55 cm, crochetez 2 rangs sur les 16 premières mailles (= 1ère épaule), coupez le fil, sautez les 30 m centrales pour l'encolure et crochetez 2 rangs sur les 16 dernières mailles (= 2ème épaule). Bon crochet!

06.09.2021 - 07:43