DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Helsinki Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with multi-colored pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-34
DROPS design: Pattern no u-796
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color no 21, medium gray
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 65, denim blue
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 44, light gray
100 g for all sizes in color no 39, dark old rose
50 g for all sizes of the following colors:
color no 73, petrol
color no 13, cerise

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
US/UK: This pattern is in US English. There are different crochet terms in British and US English. Conversion - see page 4.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. Diagrams show color pattern on jacket. See diagram for correct size. Work diagrams A.2, A.5, A.7 and A.10 only in size M-XL-XXXL.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc row with 3 ch (does not replace first dc).
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 dc with same color in 1 dc on previous row.

COLOR PATTERN (worked back and forth):
When changing color work as follows: Work last dc with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, then work next dc. When working with two color place strand for the color not worked over sts from previous row/round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row/round.

COLOR PATTERN (worked in the round):
Work as COLOR PATTERN (worked back and forth) but: Replace first dc with ch 3, if last dc on previous round and first dc on next round are different color work last dc as follows: Work last dc with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, then work 3 ch (= beg of round).

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 dc remain before marker, work 2 dc tog, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 2 dc tog (= 2 dc dec). Repeat at both markers.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 3 dc remain before marker, work 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker is in the middle of these sts) and 2 dc in next dc (= 2 dc inc). Repeat at both markers.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down. Work bands at the end.

YOKE:
Work 111-116-120-125-130-134 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with denim blue. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 1 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 2-0-4-2-0-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* = 93-97-101-105-109-113 dc.

Work 1st row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS): Work A.1 (= 1 dc) over 1 st, A.2 (= 2 dc) over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 (= 4 dc) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 dc and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 dc (= left front piece) – READ INCREASE TIP-1, A.4 (= 4 dc) – see diagram, repeat A.3 over the next 10 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 dc, A.4 over the next 4 dc (= left sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 dc and inc 4-6-8-10-12-14 dc (= back piece), A.4 over the next 4 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 10 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 dc, A.4 over the next 4 dc (= right sleeve), repeat A.3 (= 4 dc) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 dc and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 dc, finish with A.5 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc = 113-121-129-137-153-161 dc (includes inc in A.4) – READ COLOR PATTERN (work back and forth)!

Work 2nd row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc, finish with A.2 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc and A.1 over the last st = 121-129-137-145-161-169 sts (includes inc in A.4). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Work 5th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 dc, A.2 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 dc (= left front piece), A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 dc, A.4 (= left sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 dc and inc 0-4-4-4-8-8 dc (= back piece), A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 dc, A.4 (= right sleeve), repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 dc, finish with A.5 over the last 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc = 153-169-181-189-217-225 dc (includes inc in A.4).

Work 6th row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-0-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 32-40-44-48-56-60 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 dc, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-2-0-2 dc, finish with A.1 over the last dc = 161-177-189-197-225-233 dc (includes inc in A.4). Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE S:
The even inc is now done, continue and work A.1 to A.5 and inc as in A.4. When A.1 to A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 181 dc.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 7th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 dc, A.2 over the next 0-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 dc and inc 0-0-2-4-4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 dc and inc 4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-44-48-56-60 dc and inc 0-4-4-4-8 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 dc and inc 4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 dc and inc 0-0-2-4-4 dc, finish with A.5 over the last 0-0-2-0-2 dc = 185-201-213-245-257 dc.

Work 8th row in A.1 to A.5 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.5 over the first 0-0-0-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-0-2 dc, finish with A.1 over the last dc = 193-209-221-253-265 dc (includes inc in A.4).

Work 9th row in A.1 to A.5 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over 1 dc, A.2 over the next 0-0-0-0-2 dc, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc and inc 0-0-0-0-2 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc and inc 4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 dc and inc 0-0-4-4-4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc and inc 4 dc, A.4, repeat A.3 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc and inc 0-0-0-0-2 dc, A.5 over the last 0-0-0-0-2 dc = 213-229-245-277-293 dc (includes inc in A.4).

ALL SIZES:
Piece now measures approx. 11 cm / 4½''.

Work 1st row in A.6 to A.10 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.10 (= 4 dc) over the first 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc, repeat A.8 (= 8 dc) over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.9 (= 7 dc) over the next 21 dc, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 21 dc, repeat A.8 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 21 dc, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 21 dc, repeat A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc, A.7 (= 4 dc) over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc, A.6 (= 1 dc) over last dc. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in A.9. Work 5-5-7-7-9-9 rows of A.6 to A.10.

On 6th-6th-8th-8th-10th-10th row – see arrow in diagram in A.6 to A.10 work and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.6 over 1 dc, A.7 over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc, A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 30 dc, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 dc, A.9 over the next 30 dc, A.8 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-4-8 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 30 dc, A.8 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 30 dc, repeat A.8 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 dc, A.10 over the last 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc = 233-257-277-301-321-353 dc.

Work 1-2-1-2-1-2 rows more AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 0-4-16-16-16-12 dc evenly on first row (i.e. 7-8-9-10-11-12 rows of A.6 to A.10 have been worked in total) = 233-261-293-317-337-365 dc. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''. Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE M-XL-XXXL:
Work next row as follows - from WS:
Work A.8 over the first 37-45-55 dc (= right front piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 dc (= right sleeve), A.8 over the next 74-90-110 dc (= back piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 dc (= left sleeve), A.8 over the last 38-46-56 dc (= left front piece) = 165-197-241 dc.

SIZE S-L-XXL:
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work A.8 over the first 34-42-50 dc (= left front piece), skip the next 50-64-70 dc (= left sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.8 over the next 66-82-98 dc (= back piece), skip the next 50-64-70 dc (= right sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.8 over the next 33-41-49 dc (= right front piece) = 149-181-217 dc.

ALL SIZES:
= 149-165-181-197-217-241 dc. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work next row as follows: Repeat A.11 until 1 st remain, work last st as first st in A.11 (this is done so that the piece is the same in both sides). Continue piece in medium gray. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker, dec 2 dc at each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 9-5-5-10-6-6 cm / 3½"-2"-2"-4"-2½"-2½'' 2-3-3-2-3-3 times in total = 141-153-169-189-205-229 dc. When piece measures 15-17-17-19-19-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½"-8 1/4" inc 2 dc at each marker – see INCREASE TIP-2. Inc like this every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 4 times = 157-169-185-205-221-245 dc. When piece measures 31-33-33-35-35-37 cm / 12¼''-13''-13''-13¾''-13¾''-14½'', inc 0-0-2-0-2-2 dc evenly = 157-169-187-205-223-247 dc. Adjust so that next row is from RS. Work A.12 (= 6 sts) until 1 st remains, work first st in A.12 (this is done so that the pattern is the same in both sides). When A.12 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 50-56-64-68-70-72 dc. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 8th-9th-10th-11th-12th-13th round in diagram A.8 over all sts like this (i.e. work stripes, diagram will not fit no of sts). Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 ch work in armhole on body, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 3-3-3-3-5-5 ch, work 1 dc in every dc over sleeve, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 58-64-72-76-80-82 dc. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Work like this on next round: Work 1-0-0-0-0-1 dc, repeat A.11 over the next 56-64-72-76-80-80 dc (= 14-16-18-19-20-20 times in width), finish with 1-0-0-0-0-1 dc. When A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with medium gray. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec 1 dc on each side of marker thread (= 2 dc dec). Dec like this every 3- 2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 9-12-14-16-16-17 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48-48 dc. When piece measures 40-40-39-39-38-38 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work A.13 (= 2 dc) on round. Fasten off when A.13 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 70-71-72-73-74-75 cm / 27½"-28"-28½"-28 3/4"-29"-29½" from neck edge. Work the other sleeve the same way.

BAND:
Beg at top of neck edge. Worked back and forth. Work with medium gray as follows: Work 1 sl st around first dc, 1 sc around same dc, * ch 2, 1 sc around next dc *, repeat from *-* down the entire edge on jacket, finish with 1 sc in last dc. Then work 95 to 115 dc around ch-spaces evenly (make sure to avoid tightening or widening piece). Continue with 1 dc in every dc until band measures 4 cm / 1½''. Fasten off. Work the other band the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid front. Work ch where dc were worked (i.e. do not work over the ch skipped = 93-97-101-105-109-113 dc and over band). Work with denim blue:

ROW 1 (from RS): Work 7 sc evenly around band dc, 1 sc in each of the first 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts, * 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 18 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts *, 1 sc in each of the next 16-18-20-22-24-26 sts, repeat from *-* 1 time, 1 sc in each of the last 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts, work 7 sc evenly on band dc = 107-111-115-119-123-127 sts.
ROW 2 (= from WS): Work 1 sc in each of the first 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts, ** 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, * work the next 2 tr tog as tr*, *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts **, 1 sc in each of the next 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts, repeat from **-** 1 more time, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts = 97-101-105-109-113-117 sts. Work 1 row with 1 sc in every st. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band. Fasten 1st button approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' from neck edge, then fasten them approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' apart. Button between 2 dc on right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 dc with denim blue
symbols = 2 dc in dc with denim blue
symbols = 1 dc with medium gray
symbols = 2 dc in dc with medium gray
symbols = 1 dc with dark old pink
symbols = 2 dc in dc with dark old rose
symbols = 1 dc with petrol
symbols = 2 dc in dc with petrol
symbols = 1 dc with light gray
symbols = 2 dc in dc with light gray
symbols = 1 dc with cerise
symbols = inc row - see pattern
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (129)

country flag Inger Sjögren wrote:

Under virkinfo står det: Varje varv med st börjar med 3 lm (ersätter inte första st). Under den informationen står det : I början på varje varv med st ersätts första st med 3 km. Det senare är ju motsatsen till det i första meningen. Vilket gäller? Ska 3 lm ersätta första st på varje varv eller inte? Hälsningar Inger

07.03.2024 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Det er forskjell når du strikker fram & tilbaka og Runt. Slik står det under VIRKINFO: Fram och tillbaka: Varje varv med st börjar med 3 lm (ersätter inte första st). Runt: I början på varje varv med st, ersätts första st med 3 lm. Varvet avslutas med 1 sm i 3:e lm i början på varvet. mvh DROPS Design

11.03.2024 - 11:51

country flag Henny Johansson wrote:

Fråga ang. halskant, varv 2: ”*virka de nästa 2 dst tills*”. Virkas de tillsammans med stolpar eller dubbelstolpar?

09.10.2023 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Henny. Oppskriften er oversendt til design avd, for en dobbeltsjekk og avventer på svar men om du ikke vil vente på svar, kan du prøve med dbl-staver. Om ikke halskanten ligger pent, kan du hekle med staver istedenfor. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2023 - 10:57

country flag Anne-Marie Brandhoff wrote:

Ik haak maat M. Toer 9 heeft bij mij volgens telpatroon 229 stk. Dat is goed. Maar.. bij de volgende toer waarbij ikA6 tot en met A10 haak kom ik niet uit. Ik haak volgens het beschreven patroon. Maar zou nog 18 stk moeten haken om de toer af te maken. En er staat ook niet in het patroon op hoeveel stk ik moet uitkomen. Kan iemand mij helpen?

11.07.2023 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne-Marie,

In de paragraaf waarin voor maat M tot en met maat XXXL beschreven staat wat je moet doen is de eerste maat, en daarmee ook het eerste getal, maat M. Dus je moet na toer 9 213 steken hebben. Dan klopt het ook met de toer erna.

13.07.2023 - 20:12

country flag Henny Johansson wrote:

Hej! Jag har virkat varvet där man hoppar över maskor för ärmarna. I stl M står det att jag ska ha 165 st, men för mig blir det 149 st (37+74+38) som det står för stl S. Det totala antalet maskor stämmer inte för övriga stl heller. Stl S 34+66+33=133st, stl L 42+82+41=165st, stl XL 45+90+46=181st osv. Det påverkar ju fortsättningen också när man ska öka och minska, det kommer inte heller att stämma.

08.04.2023 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Henny, husk at tælle de 8 lm med i hver side :)

14.04.2023 - 07:47

country flag Siv Klausmark wrote:

Hvor er rad 3 og 4 i mønstra

31.03.2023 - 11:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Siv, Du finner alle diagrammene til mønstret på bunnen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

03.04.2023 - 06:57

country flag Pia Olofsson wrote:

Hej Har fixat det Tack

16.02.2023 - 13:39

country flag Pia Olofsson wrote:

Hej igen Tack för ert tålamod. Vill så gärna bli färdig med denna underbart fina tröja men har en fråga till. Har kommit till rad 10 där man ska hoppa över maskor för ärmarna. Hur gör jag med tråden: Ska jag klippa av och börja på nytt? Hur gör jag sedan på andra varvet med det jag hoppat över. Förstår inte alls. tack på förhand

15.02.2023 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, nej, du hoppar bare over ærme-maskerne og hækler videre på rygstykket, nøjagtig som vi beskriver det i opskriften :) du kan se princippen her: uppifrån och ner

16.02.2023 - 13:46

country flag Pia Olofsson wrote:

Hej igen. Ni borde skriva i mönstret att diagram A9 bara är 21 maskor i varv 1 och att det ökar efterhand. I mönstret står följ A6-A9 som ovan men det stämmer inte. A9 ändras och det borde stå. Tack för ert tålamod Vh Pia

13.02.2023 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Jo men det ser du jo i selve diagrammet.....

14.02.2023 - 09:50

country flag Airashii wrote:

Hello, Drops Design. I just want to let you know that the link to crochet terms in section "Pattern instructions - NOTE" opens Terms & Sizes. It should probably open Dictionary (which I find very useful; many thanks for your incredible website). Kind regards.

10.02.2023 - 21:41

country flag Pia Olofsson wrote:

Fortsätter med frågan ovan. jag har nu virkat hela diagrammet nr 9 på varv 4 men det blir 24 stolpar inte 21 som det står i mönstret. Blir fel när jag ska virka varv 5. I mönstret står det 21 st när första varvet i diagram 9 har 7 st. De andra varven i diagram 9 har 8 st alltså blir det 24 st i diagrammet

10.02.2023 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Når du hekler A.9 økes det masker både på 1. omgang og 4. omgang, slik at når A.9 er ferdig heklet i høyden har du økt med 3 masker hver gang du hekler A.1. Altså når du hekler A.9 3 ganger/3 rapporter etter hverandre på 1. omgang = 21 masker, men når du hekler 11. omgang av A.9 hekler du fremdeles 3 ganger/ 3 rapporter av A.1 men har økt til 30 masker. Sett maskemarkører mellom hver rapport av diagrammene, så har du en bedre oversikt. mvh DROPS Design

13.02.2023 - 10:14